Castrol Edge Euro 0W-40 A3/B4 - 3,305 Miles - 2010 Subaru Impreza WRX EJ255

a5m

Joined
Aug 9, 2021
Messages
68
My very first UOA. Opted for a TBN as well. Blackstone Laboratories.

Running same oil and Mazda RX-8 (N3R1-14-302) Tokyo Roki Filter since acquiring the vehicle with 108,540 miles on Nov 20, 2020.

~3k OCIs - 1st at 62 miles into ownership (2,645 miles on existing oil) - this one 4th at 118,321 miles.

3,305-mile oil change at 118,321 miles on July 22, 2021 (Sample mailed next day - delivered July 30, 2021 - report received today August 9, 2021):
  • 1,153 miles into OCI - BG Platinum 44K 11oz (PN 208) added on empty tank - filled 15.521 gal Shell V-Power 93.
  • 2,295 miles into OCI - Lucas Octane Booster 5.25oz (10930) added on empty tank - filled 15.587 gal Shell V-Power 93.
  • 3,021 miles into OCI - Berryman B-12 Chemtool Fuel System Cleaner 15oz (Part #0116) added on low tank - filled 13.477 gal Shell V-Power 93.

BOXERNOBRIEFS-210722.png
 
Castrol EDGE 0W-40 is an excellent oil. I think that either the octane booster, the fuel system cleaner, or both, are cutting down your TBN. If it was mine, I would give the new Mobil 1 FS 5W-40 a try, and I wouldn't use any "gasoline boosters" or cleaners. You might get even more TBN with the Mobil 1. That Shell V-Power is very good on its own, and it's expensive.
 
  • Like
Reactions: a5m
Firstly want to thank everyone for the Likes and replies. Looking forward to contributing more. I've learned so much here about something I've taken for granted in the past.
Single digit wear metals, what I always like to see! Excellent uoa! (y)
Welcome! I would keep using this oil. :)
Thanks for the welcome and vote of confidence guys. Shoutout to @bluesubie as his experience led me to choose this oil. Hoping to continue using it.

I'm going to be "that guy". Just about any oil should be able to go 3k miles. Show me 10k miles and we'll talk. ;)
Haha yes I agree. This was as much to find out how my engine is doing as it was the oil. Stuck with the old 3k rule of thumb especially given the amount of miles.

Blackstone suggested 5.5k so thinking of extending but not sure by how much. Either increments to say 4-4.5k or jump straight to 5.5k. Depends on my driving and how long the 0.5qt that's left in the jug will cover since the car does burn oil. Hard to say how much exactly since PCV Valve was changed 300 miles prior to that OCI, plus those fuel additives may have also had an effect. So will monitor and see.

Castrol EDGE 0W-40 is an excellent oil. I think that either the octane booster, the fuel system cleaner, or both, are cutting down your TBN. If it was mine, I would give the new Mobil 1 FS 5W-40 a try, and I wouldn't use any "gasoline boosters" or cleaners. You might get even more TBN with the Mobil 1. That Shell V-Power is very good on its own, and it's expensive.

Thanks. That's the only other oil I've considered running. The octane booster was to diagnose a separate issue. There will be no more additives moving forward or at least for the next few OCIs. Want to do another UOA with the same oil and mileage to compare and then take it from there.
 
This was as much to find out how my engine is doing as it was the oil. Stuck with the old 3k rule of thumb especially given the amount of miles.
Is 108k miles high to you ? If you continue to do 3000 mile oil changes, you might as well use Supertech full synthetic (though you can't get it in 0W-40 - or can you ?).

Is this car new to you ? I ask because of the addition of multiple doses of "cleaner" products on top of using what's undoubtedly high-quality fuel. When I first get a new-to-me, used car, I dump a few bottles of fuel system cleaner in for good measure but after that, I only add some if I think about it or the parts store has a 2-for-1 deal on Techron or something.
 
Is 108k miles high to you ? If you continue to do 3000 mile oil changes, you might as well use Supertech full synthetic (though you can't get it in 0W-40 - or can you ?).

Is this car new to you ? I ask because of the addition of multiple doses of "cleaner" products on top of using what's undoubtedly high-quality fuel. When I first get a new-to-me, used car, I dump a few bottles of fuel system cleaner in for good measure but after that, I only add some if I think about it or the parts store has a 2-for-1 deal on Techron or something.
Yea, anything over 100k I consider high. Not as much if it’s a Honda or Toyota, but for a Subaru it’s definitely high, and even more so for a turbo EJ.

Yes, new-to-me. I’ve been chasing another issue hence the use of the cleaners. That’s why hadn’t considered it at the time of purchase or would’ve just ran them then and called it a day.
 
No experience with Subarus here but I thought their engines were generally reliable (some designs here and there seem to have very common issues though). Four cars here - 2 Hondas, 1 Infiniti, and 1 Ford. Ours range from 112k ('12 Accord), 125k ('14 Fusion), 129k ('12 Civic), and 140k ('08 G35).

I doubt fuel system cleaners will "solve" a real problem, I just consider them maintenance products (should help a little, otherwise can't hurt).
 
No experience with Subarus here but I thought their engines were generally reliable (some designs here and there seem to have very common issues though).

The ’04 - ’07 / ‘08-ish EJ 2.5 turbos were problematic with clogged turbo oil screens from exceeding 3,000 mile intervals. I had turbo failure because I pushed my intervals too far with “good uoa’s” and not listening to Subaru’s advice of a maximum 3,750 OCI (later advice that required all turbos to fall under Severe Service). Those screens were removed around 2008.

The ’08/09 turbo EJ’s had issues with bearing failures when Subaru switched away from lead bearings. There was a stop sale on that one. Then there seemed to be common bearing failures around 2014/2015.

After my turbo failure at around 82k, I put nearly another 110k miles on my FXT before selling it. During that time, I only ran thicker oils and kept my intervals to a max of ~5k and never had any further issues, except for some oil burning. I even kept the AVCS and turbo screens in which became a very popular thing among enthusiasts to remove.

So yeah, I absolutely don’t blame @a5m for a conservative interval. And I wouldn’t push the OCI past 5k either, regardless of any uoa result. I’m still waiting for donations to my turbo replacement fund. 😁
 
  • Like
Reactions: a5m
My very first UOA. Opted for a TBN as well. Blackstone Laboratories.

3,305-mile oil change at 118,321 miles on July 22, 2021 (Sample mailed next day - delivered July 30, 2021 - report received today August 9, 2021):
Wow, it took them 6-7 working days to turn the results around after receiving it? They must be swamped! The last several I sent them took 2-4 days to turn around after delivery.
 
as a past EJ253 owner (2.5RS) i always used to look for the dreaded Potassium (coolant from head gaskets) or lead (rod bearings) numbers. your EJ looks super happy judging by the super low wear metals, good viscosity and flashpoint. i think Silver is a bearing material, but its low enough to be an insignificant error. no make up oil too! i was adding about 1 qt per 5k miles by the time it met its demise at 135k.

this oi is cheap, effective, and appears to be doing the job perfectly fine. i'd keep on keepin' on and shoot for 4k mile intervals indefinitely.
 
The ’04 - ’07 / ‘08-ish EJ 2.5 turbos were problematic with clogged turbo oil screens from exceeding 3,000 mile intervals. I had turbo failure because I pushed my intervals too far with “good uoa’s” and not listening to Subaru’s advice of a maximum 3,750 OCI (later advice that required all turbos to fall under Severe Service). Those screens were removed around 2008.

The ’08/09 turbo EJ’s had issues with bearing failures when Subaru switched away from lead bearings. There was a stop sale on that one. Then there seemed to be common bearing failures around 2014/2015.

After my turbo failure at around 82k, I put nearly another 110k miles on my FXT before selling it. During that time, I only ran thicker oils and kept my intervals to a max of ~5k and never had any further issues, except for some oil burning. I even kept the AVCS and turbo screens in which became a very popular thing among enthusiasts to remove.

So yeah, I absolutely don’t blame @a5m for a conservative interval. And I wouldn’t push the OCI past 5k either, regardless of any uoa result. I’m still waiting for donations to my turbo replacement fund. 😁
The myth, the man, the legend :D

Thanks for chiming in Dennis. You nicely covered one of the many weaknesses of the EJ. I learned how important oil was to this engine from the getgo, so I went out of my way to treat it the best I can. Thanks again for your posts that dumbed down the technical reasons you chose Castrol. I'm not even going to pretend like I understood half of it :LOL:

Honestly, I'm scared of the 5k OCI. I drive in the city a lot. I'm thinking of a 4k OCI UOA first to see how it looks and go from there.

Wow, it took them 6-7 working days to turn the results around after receiving it? They must be swamped! The last several I sent them took 2-4 days to turn around after delivery.
To be fair, I forgot to fill out the CC exp date on the form so got a call from them on August 3rd. They said 7-9 days for results but they came sooner. But yea they might just be swamped with everything going on.

as a past EJ253 owner (2.5RS) i always used to look for the dreaded Potassium (coolant from head gaskets) or lead (rod bearings) numbers. your EJ looks super happy judging by the super low wear metals, good viscosity and flashpoint. i think Silver is a bearing material, but its low enough to be an insignificant error. no make up oil too! i was adding about 1 qt per 5k miles by the time it met its demise at 135k.

this oi is cheap, effective, and appears to be doing the job perfectly fine. i'd keep on keepin' on and shoot for 4k mile intervals indefinitely.
Thanks so much for sharing your insight. I'm still learning what all the numbers mean, but yes, seeing low Potassium and especially Lead numbers is a major relief.

Really comforting to know I made the right choice going with this oil. It's one of those things that seems too good to be true. I was considering Mobil 1 0W-40 just to change things up, but after reading up on it last night, I think I'll pass. Aside from the naming confusion with FS vs FS X2, conflicting PDS info, etc Castrol Edge 0W-40 just seems better overall, especially for the EJ which it's a miracle oil for. I like the idea of 4k OCIs. Seems like the sweet spot especially for my use case.
 
The myth, the man, the legend :D

Thanks for chiming in Dennis. You nicely covered one of the many weaknesses of the EJ. I learned how important oil was to this engine from the getgo, so I went out of my way to treat it the best I can. Thanks again for your posts that dumbed down the technical reasons you chose Castrol. I'm not even going to pretend like I understood half of it :LOL:

Honestly, I'm scared of the 5k OCI. I drive in the city a lot. I'm thinking of a 4k OCI UOA first to see how it looks and go from there.


To be fair, I forgot to fill out the CC exp date on the form so got a call from them on August 3rd. They said 7-9 days for results but they came sooner. But yea they might just be swamped with everything going on.


Thanks so much for sharing your insight. I'm still learning what all the numbers mean, but yes, seeing low Potassium and especially Lead numbers is a major relief.

Really comforting to know I made the right choice going with this oil. It's one of those things that seems too good to be true. I was considering Mobil 1 0W-40 just to change things up, but after reading up on it last night, I think I'll pass. Aside from the naming confusion with FS vs FS X2, conflicting PDS info, etc Castrol Edge 0W-40 just seems better overall, especially for the EJ which it's a miracle oil for. I like the idea of 4k OCIs. Seems like the sweet spot especially for my use case.
Good report. Agree with the shorter ocis . Try to be smooth and stay out of the throttle, if you can. Good luck with it.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: a5m
Thanks so much for sharing your insight. I'm still learning what all the numbers mean, but yes, seeing low Potassium and especially Lead numbers is a major relief.

absolutely. i'm certainly not as seasoned as someone like bluesubie but i've got a decent grasp of where the red flags are. with EJ's and their fragile ringlands i also keep an eye on chromium and aluminum (bore scoring) and again those look great - as good as my N/A engine ever was. i'm very sold on a 40wt for these turbo boxers and out of all the easily available 0W-40s, castrol seems to hold its viscosity at the highest level.

with 4K OCI's you will likely maintain a very clean engine. after a lifetime of synthetics, the valvetrain on my EJ was spotless when i had to replace the valve cover gaskets at 135k miles, not even any varnish on the inside of the covers themselves despite 6-7k mile OCI's and some very hard driving.
 
  • Like
Reactions: a5m
Good report. Agree with the shorter ocis . Try to be smooth and stay out of the throttle, if you can. Good luck with it.
Thank you. Can you elaborate on staying out of throttle? I mean I know what that means but in case I missed something.

absolutely. i'm certainly not as seasoned as someone like bluesubie but i've got a decent grasp of where the red flags are. with EJ's and their fragile ringlands i also keep an eye on chromium and aluminum (bore scoring) and again those look great - as good as my N/A engine ever was. i'm very sold on a 40wt for these turbo boxers and out of all the easily available 0W-40s, castrol seems to hold its viscosity at the highest level.

with 4K OCI's you will likely maintain a very clean engine. after a lifetime of synthetics, the valvetrain on my EJ was spotless when i had to replace the valve cover gaskets at 135k miles, not even any varnish on the inside of the covers themselves despite 6-7k mile OCI's and some very hard driving.
Thanks again for pointing out the Chromium and Aluminum. EJ owners have nightmares about ringlands. Anything to keep that from becoming a reality.

Love the sight of a clean engine with a lot of miles. Glad yours was so clean. Hoping mine looks the same. Not in a hurry to see for myself though :LOL:
 
Love the sight of a clean engine with a lot of miles. Glad yours was so clean. Hoping mine looks the same. Not in a hurry to see for myself though :LOL:
granted the N/A engines don't see the oil temps you turbo guys do, but this was my driver's side valvetrain at 135k miles when i had to replace a valve cover gasket. synthetic from day 1 with mostly 6-8k mile oil changes. autocross, rallycross, track days, mountain roads...plenty of severe service. i tried everything from 0W-30 up to 5W-40 and settled on 0W-40 by the end before it was hit and totaled.

i think you can achieve the same results, just keep the OCI's shorter due to the engine's higher specific output. i would also stress to be sure you are careful in your oil filter choice, some filters may not have the proper bypass PSI which for EJ's is higher than most. i always just used OEM filters from the dealer.


tF4JMSY.jpg
 
granted the N/A engines don't see the oil temps you turbo guys do, but this was my driver's side valvetrain at 135k miles when i had to replace a valve cover gasket. synthetic from day 1 with mostly 6-8k mile oil changes. autocross, rallycross, track days, mountain roads...plenty of severe service. i tried everything from 0W-30 up to 5W-40 and settled on 0W-40 by the end before it was hit and totaled.

i think you can achieve the same results, just keep the OCI's shorter due to the engine's higher specific output. i would also stress to be sure you are careful in your oil filter choice, some filters may not have the proper bypass PSI which for EJ's is higher than most. i always just used OEM filters from the dealer.


tF4JMSY.jpg
That looks like new! Where those all Mobil 1 synthetics that you ran in your engine?
 
That looks like new! Where those all Mobil 1 synthetics that you ran in your engine?
thanks - no, i tried just about everything over the 10 years i had it.

Pennzoil Platinum
Mobil1
Rotella
Castrol
Royal Purple

RP never impressed me, and i ran PP the longest consecutive streak. towards the end i was using M1 for the best performance/cost combo and their 0W-40 resulted in the least amount of oil use.

i run M1 0W-40 in both my vehicles currently. i've run multiple brands of 0W-40 through my honda and after taking the valve cover off last year for a valve adjustment it was similarly spotless. i think those oils have a great additive package.
 
Wow, the Titanium 41 and Zinc 975 really stands out. Looks like they went all-in on the Titanium and quite high ZDDP for their anti-wear additives.

I did read somewhere that >800 zinc may be problematic for the catalytic converters but I don't know if there's any truth to that.

I've got 10qts of this, looking forward to using it on an upcoming service. Thanks for sharing!
 
  • Like
Reactions: a5m
Back
Top