cascade dish detergent coolant flush?

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Do my eyes deceive me, or did I read this correctly? While reading other posts, one poster advised cleaning cooling system with Cascade dish detergent. Is this a common practice? How do you do it?
 
It's only needed when a cooling system is contaminated with oil or ATF. Water wont remove the oil w/o a detergent. We normally use Simple Green as Ford recommends it for oily cooling systems.

So if its good enough for Ford its good enough for me.
 
It's true. Use Cascade DISHWASHER detergent as it is low foaming. It's great if you have an oil cooler line blow and get oil in the system. Flush it out very well though when done.

It's an old school diesel truck thing.
 
Its necessary after dexsludge forms!Cascade used to work till they took the phosphates out of it or most.I use TSP phosphate cleaner but it takes a couple days of driving it to work.We have an 04 Pontiac that needs a heater core replaced cause the dexsludge keeps plugging up the heater core and they get no heat.We have flushed it twice and it will have heat for a couple days then the dexsludge will plug it back up.I dont care what anyone says the normal citric based cleaners will do nothing in a situation like this.We only use this when they have no heat or lukewarm I have used it in my personal vehicles.
 
So how do you do it? Pour it in, fill with water and drive for a few days, then drain, rinse and you're good to go? How much do you add? I'm especially curious as I just bought a 1997 Olds van with dexcool and am about to do a flush. It's a beautiful day here in Central Florida, would be a great day to flush a rad.
 
Originally Posted By: AandPDan
It's true. Use Cascade DISHWASHER detergent as it is low foaming. It's great if you have an oil cooler line blow and get oil in the system. Flush it out very well though when done.

It's an old school diesel truck thing.

Yes. Worked well in my Mustang last summer.
 
I use half a box if they have low heat. If you dont have heat issues i would use 1/4 of it and drive it a couple days then flush it a few times.Again Cascade used to work till they removed most of the phosphates.You can find TSP in the paint section of most stores I use the powder but they have liquids.They also have TSP substitute but I doubt it works as well as the phophates.
 
Using a detergent as a degrease and clean out is consistent with FSMs for some vehicles.

My MB gets a citric acid flush every so often per these instructions with citric acid flushing being an FSM job.

http://dieselgiant.com/mercedes_citrus_flush.htm

With 30+ year old original radiators and hoses, and perfectly functioning cooling systems on cars that are way over 200k, it has worked for me.
 
Doesnt sound like you need to use TSP I only use it as a last resort before a heater core needs replaced.I have had good results curing lukewarm heat as well.The citric based cleaners are just not strong enough and take DAYS to do anything at all.You are adding that small bottle to atleast a couple gallons of coolant.
 
Just came back from LOWES where I bought the last two boxes of TSP, (the old stuff). Fellow at the paint department said they are not ordering anymore but are now stocking the new "enviormentally friendly" stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
It's only needed when a cooling system is contaminated with oil or ATF. Water wont remove the oil w/o a detergent. We normally use Simple Green as Ford recommends it for oily cooling systems.

So if its good enough for Ford its good enough for me.


+1. And I wouldn't use a caustic cleaner in a cooling system unless it was truely last resort and probably not then either, especially if the sludge wasn't oil anyway. I'd be too concerned it would damage the aluminum in a heater core or radiator leading to leaks. I'd probably look for an acid base cleaner, maybe wood bleach followed up with baking soda to neutralize if the usual citric or phosphric acid cleaner wasn't strong enough.
 
What about the use of radiator cleaners like Prestone "Super Radiator Cleaner" uses Sodium Citrate and and older product entitled Prestone "Super Flush"? It seems these would be better/safer to use than Cascade. I also have aluminum and plastic radiator in my BMW so I am concerned about potental damage.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Russell
What about the use of radiator cleaners like Prestone "Super Radiator Cleaner" uses Sodium Citrate and and older product entitled Prestone "Super Flush"? It seems these would be better/safer to use than Cascade. I also have aluminum and plastic radiator in my BMW so I am concerned about potental damage.


Citric acid flushes have been used with confidence in my 30yr old, 200k+ MB plastic and aluminum radiators. I would not be concerned.
 
Originally Posted By: maybehabitformin
Its necessary after dexsludge forms!Cascade used to work till they took the phosphates out of it or most.I use TSP phosphate cleaner but it takes a couple days of driving it to work.We have an 04 Pontiac that needs a heater core replaced cause the dexsludge keeps plugging up the heater core and they get no heat.We have flushed it twice and it will have heat for a couple days then the dexsludge will plug it back up.I dont care what anyone says the normal citric based cleaners will do nothing in a situation like this.We only use this when they have no heat or lukewarm I have used it in my personal vehicles.

I'm having the same problem on an 08 Pontiac GP, check out my pictures. Keeps blooming. Having a hard time getting rid of it.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2930073

I can't imagine exposing the water pump to a non-inhibited, slightly abrasive fluid. You sure thats ok?
 
I used Dawn when intake gasket went bad on my 99 Lumina 3.1.
Had oil in coolant. Did two washes and let it idle with heater hose off until clear water came out. No scum or anything when GM antifreeze was put back in.
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
It's only needed when a cooling system is contaminated with oil or ATF. Water wont remove the oil w/o a detergent. We normally use Simple Green as Ford recommends it for oily cooling systems.

So if its good enough for Ford its good enough for me.


Isn't Simple Green harmful to aluminum? There is Simple Green HD (purple colored) which is said to
be safe for most all metals and alloys.
 
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