Can't tap lower ball joint out of place
- Thread starter OM605
- Start date
Glad you prevailed. I have a mason's block chisel for stuff like that. Also a 2' piece of 5/8 all thread used to get me to a place where I could wind up with an 8 pound hammer and transmit some shock to the area. Mjolnir is what my saga loving dad called his favorite hammer. 
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+1 That pin is pretty long, I figured that was what was holding it. There should be enough to get self locking pliers on that, a little heat and penetrating oil then wiggle it up and down with the grips till its free and pulls out.
Clean the hole good and use anti seize on that pin.
Clean the hole good and use anti seize on that pin.
This is a good example of German over-engineering. The pin is only there to make the joint point approximately upward into the knuckle. It doesn't matter if it's a degree or two off, the ball joint will swivel. So they could have made the pin hole rather loose to be sure it will come out when the time comes, and not affected the operation of the car at all.
I was able to remove the pin from new ball joint with vice grips and penetrant fairly easily. Unlike what is said on the internet, installation is as hard as removal if not worse because of the stupid buldge in the dust shields. To get the everything to line up was a nightmare, especially the pin. I may sound harsh but it got the best of me and i spent my whole day on it. I was hesitant to do it myself but it wasn't worth it. In the end, the only things i enjoy doing myself are engine related stuff.
PS : To be able to unscrew the top nut you have to keep the ball joint from turning. There's a 6mm allen hole but there's zero room to use it. What i did instead was to put pressure on the lower control arm with a floor jack to simulate having the wheel in place with all the weight of the car. I am basically using the taper to my advantage to keep it from tuning. I used the same method to tighten the nut with the new ball joints. Is it good enough? I tightened everything as far as me + my 22mm wrench could.
PS : To be able to unscrew the top nut you have to keep the ball joint from turning. There's a 6mm allen hole but there's zero room to use it. What i did instead was to put pressure on the lower control arm with a floor jack to simulate having the wheel in place with all the weight of the car. I am basically using the taper to my advantage to keep it from tuning. I used the same method to tighten the nut with the new ball joints. Is it good enough? I tightened everything as far as me + my 22mm wrench could.
still better than a press fit lower ball joint
if you can get a socket in there refer to the workshop manual and torque to spec
if you can get a socket in there refer to the workshop manual and torque to spec
That is okay, it uses a nyloc nut anyway and you never want to over tighten a taped fit, you can get away with it in iron but in aluminum you can actually split/crack the knuckle.
You did fine. Torque isn't super important as you can only get within 60 degrees of the castle nut hole (if applicable.) Hand tight jams the taper in quite well, as you discovered on disassembly.
I don't think there even is a torque spec as it is impossible to use anything else than a 22mm wrench. I must say that i tightened everything super tight but it could have been even tighter and i didn't have much leverage anyway. Everything is made of steel i think.
