Hey guys;
Mike said:
quote:
I think of it this way...a 5w20 is MUCH thicker cold than a 5w30 is when hot.
So, The folks who say that using a 5w-30 will KILL the engine because it's too thick when cold and that is why you must use 5w-20 are full of it.
Is not 5w-20 thicker COLD than 5w-30 when it's hot? If it is, how can 5w-30 hurt the engine?? (or that's how I'm reading what Mike said...)
A little off topic..
I decided to go to the new owner "class" with my sister (she bought a 2003 Ford Taurus) and got to ask questions to the "expert" on the care of her car. When it was all over, it comes down to this;
Take your car to Ford and have them do all maintence incl oil changes. They know your car better than anyone. Also, if the manual states something, do it.
(oh, and if the car starts to overheat, pull over and STOP the engine ..smartest thing I heard the whole night )
Then, I asked the expert if I could get a sample of the oil (bulk systems deliver to each station) for UOA, He declined as he did not know how to turn on the pumps.. (They are air activated) I asked if I could see the drums. Not allowed.
I'd bet I'd see some 5w-30 tags or 10-30 label on drums like the local Honda dealer. My Dad's 2001 honda gets 10-30 Quaker State for his oil changes FROM THE DEALER even though it's states 5w-20 in the manual.
I asked him why my manual states 5w-30 in my Taurus and my sisters has 5w-20. It's due to changes in the engine. Both have the same engine. Then I asked him why I got a letter stating that I should run 5w-20 now. Same engine (well, It's got new heads since the 61k mile gaskets let go) and he stated that the 5w-20 is better oil than 5w-30.
I don't know, But my 5w-30 oil is going to 20 wt in 3000 miles, What would 5w-20 do?
At least I'm getting better protection while the 30 wt oil is going to 20 wt!
Cheers! Bill