Can heat tape be used to keep long run of pipe warm?

[barryh]

I think the OP is suggesting that the volume of water in 45ft of trace heated cold water pipe is enough for a quick shower when combined with the hot water feed to the shower. Trace heating seems an expensive way of doing it though as the large surface area will have considerable heat loss even with insulation over the tape.

I have a similar problem with some hot water taps being 68 ft of pipe away from the hot water storage tank. I put in a circulating loop which works well but the heat loss is horrendous. The only economic solution is to generate hot water closer to the point where it's needed.

 

[4WD]

Same principle use in an RV to minimize water use
Wet - lather - rinse with one of these …
(in this case limit on warm water) …

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Aursear-...RIANT&selectedSellerId=101128110&from=/search

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

I think the OP is suggesting that the volume of water in 45ft of trace heated cold water pipe is enough for a quick shower when combined with the hot water feed to the shower. Trace heating seems an expensive way of doing it though as the large surface area will have considerable heat loss even with insulation over the tape.

I have a similar problem with some hot water taps being 68 ft of pipe away from the hot water storage tank. I put in a circulating loop which works well but the heat loss is horrendous. The only economic solution is to generate hot water closer to the point where it's needed.

I believe your last comment is the only option in the OP's situation.
Unless I missed it (highly possible) I don't think OP has provided us enough information. I think the only one who thought about trying heat trace (not what it is made for) was the OP. But, I get you. Closer is always good.
A larger (proper sized for application) heater / tank , set hot enough would be good too. Sounds like that may not be an option for OP since a landlord is calling the shots and may not want to be bothered with it?

One time I had to install a pump and design a continuous circulating loop , similar I think to what you mentioned at one of my job sites.
The pump and a circ loop provided instant hot water to all access spots (showers and wash basins). We also upgraded to just a little bit larger (not a really big nor expensive) water heater tank and made sure mix valves were set above minimum setting when installed.
Once the combination of things were in place , problem solved. Another big thing that helped us was that all of that system + pipe , was inside a very well insulated locker room.

Unfortunately for the OP , it sounds like he does not have many options at all due to someone else owns the place and seems to want to charge the OP for any repairs or upgrades. When I had to rent , years ago. I had an agreement with the owner. Anything needing repairs , if I showed him first and did the agreed repairs myself , he took the cost off my monthly rent. I realize this is not an option for everyone.

 

[KrisZ]

It’s the mixing valve.

Besides, a heat tape will only heat up the stationary water in the pipe. Once the water gets flowing, that heater will not be able to heat up the cold water coming from the ground.

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

It’s the mixing valve.

Besides, a heat tape will only heat up the stationary water in the pipe. Once the water gets flowing, that heater will not be able to heat up the cold water coming from the ground.

You know it probably would not take much for the OP to check the mix valve setting. All I have ever seen had a min/max adjustment. Of course one has to take the handle and cover off to access it.

 

[burbguy82]

After they replaced the water heater and galvanized steel hot water line the shower only gets luke warm

What is the temp of the water coming out of the water heater? Can you measure it? Should be about 120f. If 120f out of the heater, you should not get much heat loss in that distance.

Is the water full hot out of an adjacent faucet, such as the sink or kitchen sink? If so, the issue is the shower valve cartridge.

 

[barryh]

One time I had to install a pump and design a continuous circulating loop , similar I think to what you mentioned at one of my job sites.

I didn't use a pump. I found in a very old plumbing book some calculations for driving a circulating loop from the vertical temperature differential in the tank and convinced myself it would work. The hot water feed is off the top of the tank and I connected the return of the loop near the bottom. It worked a treat. What a pump would have allowed is to turn off the circulation overnight to save on the heat loss.

The experience of this domestic heat loss prompted me to make some changes at work where I was a building services engineer for a very large research site housing 3500 staff. Circulating hot water to dozens of washbasins that were huge distances from the hot water storage was extremely wasteful. This was made worse by Legionella precautions prompting an increase in circulation temperature because the desired return temperature required an even higher feed temperature that I frankly thought was becoming dangerous. The risk of burns was worse than the legionella risk which isn't that great from taps anyway. Gradually replacing the whole system by electric under sink water heaters resolved most of the heat loss and alleviated concerns about Legionella so it became a no brainer thing to do. We also did the same with showers which are a far more serious legionella risk, particularly when infrequently used. Any increase in energy cost by using electricity vs gas to heat water were offset by a reduction in losses and a reduction in the cost of legionella precautions.

 

[walterjay]

He needs to do a little detective work here before he thinks about heat tape. I always enjoyed solving plumbing mysteries like this.

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

I didn't use a pump. I found in a very old plumbing book some calculations for driving a circulating loop from the vertical temperature differential in the tank and convinced myself it would work. The hot water feed is off the top of the tank and I connected the return of the loop near the bottom. It worked a treat. What a pump would have allowed is to turn off the circulation overnight to save on the heat loss.

The experience of this domestic heat loss prompted me to make some changes at work where I was a building services engineer for a very large research site housing 3500 staff. Circulating hot water to dozens of washbasins that were huge distances from the hot water storage was extremely wasteful. This was made worse by Legionella precautions prompting an increase in circulation temperature because the desired return temperature required an even higher feed temperature that I frankly thought was becoming dangerous. The risk of burns was worse than the legionella risk which isn't that great from taps anyway. Gradually replacing the whole system by electric under sink water heaters resolved most of the heat loss and alleviated concerns about Legionella so it became a no brainer thing to do. We also did the same with showers which are a far more serious legionella risk, particularly when infrequently used. Any increase in energy cost by using electricity vs gas to heat water were offset by a reduction in losses and a reduction in the cost of legionella precautions.

Seriously sounds like you really could help the OP a whole lot better than lots of us amatuers. From your very good experience it sounds like you could help him. Maybe point him at some things to troubleshoot and solve it. Of course he sounds like he or the owner are not keen on spending to remedy the situation.

 

[facility1]

adjust the hot water heater to a desired temp up to 125f then check out temp with a heat gun,,then go to shower outlet, with the hw on only check temp after a run of a minute, if not up to temp, your mixing valve is stuck,rebuild mixing valve with the proper kit for that modle,adjust & ,,insulate piping accordingly, clean shower head or replace for a decent flow,and or get rid of the water saver thing in outlet,, the whole situation is water flow and bad/plugged up thermo/tempering valve,,and some have screens on the inlet side that maybe plugged up due to plumbing pipe replacement,,,,,,,,,,check your flow.

 

[repairman54]

In my newly bought 20 yr old house E water heater was set to 120F. Factor in 45f well water coming in cooling it down as hot water went out it struggled to maintain a constant shower temperature, winter worse than summer, flow restricted eco shower head also. Had to keep turning to hot. Raised temp to 140f in the heater and no more issues.
No kids or challenged adults in the house either.
May still have old steel restricted pipe in the walls behind the shower also.