Can anyone explain this?

[buster]

I'm a bit ticked off right now. I have 1,000 miles on Redline and I've already used over 1/2qt of make up oil!! RL has a NOAK of 5% so it's not the volatility. I've run Rx and it did Zero for my consumption problem. This car seems to burn oil at high speeds regardless of the oil I use. For some odd reason M1 10w-30 and Amsoil S2k did the best. M1 0w-30 was the worst. Does anyone have an explanation for this? I'm beginning to think I need a thicker and low volatile oil like Amsoil 10w-40 at this point. I have a lot of miles on the car and it might be getting to the point where I have to use a heavier oil.

Could it be from switching brands??

 

[userfriendly]

I thought you knew about the ring wetting properties of ester based lubricants before switching.

 

[buster]

No can you enlighten me? Is this normal?

 

[userfriendly]

Typical

 

[Pablo]

Sometimes just a good old

PAO 15W-40 is your best bet.

 

[userfriendly]

Its in the trunk, remember?

 

[Al]

Well at that consumption-it may be time to do the 10W-30/15W-50 trick or switch to DelvaC 1300 15W-40.

 

[buster]

I might have to use a heavier oil from now on although I think RL is doing some cleaning possibly. I almost bought a new Jeep Rubicon tonight. I held off. I'm too in the hole with this car. That would have fixex the problem though.

userfriendly, I still have room in the trunk if your interested.

[ October 31, 2003, 09:47 PM: Message edited by: buster ]

 

[Amkeer]

That consumption is normal at continuous high speed driving. It may be a little higher consumption since this is the first run with the Redline.

Hey at least you don't have the dreaded weeping seals!

Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, Impulse Red, Peppy 2.7 Liter 4 Banger, Running Mobil1 Synthetics SS 5W-30.
ODO 5650 Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner, Evergreen, 3.0 V6, Running Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 82900 Miles. (Switching to GC next)

 

[buster]

quote:

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Sometimes just a good old PAO 15W-40 is your best bet.

---

Pablo, if I find out that my engine needs a heavier weight, I'd like to give this a shot year round. How do you think it would do in cold temps.? I could run this oil quite awhile I assume until I dump the car.

 

[userfriendly]

Sure I'd get into your trunk.
Right beside the shovel and bag of lime.

 

[Bob Woods]

I have a lot of miles on the car and it might be getting to the point where I have to use a heavier oil. Buster

What kind of car are you talking about? And how many miles?

The best oil in the world will not replace worn rings and bad valve guides. When an engine gets so many miles on it, its worn out and burns oil. I would use the cheapest 10w40 or 10w50 I could find and hope for the best. My work truck has 225000 miles on it and I don't throw my money away putting synthetic oil in it. It gets Walmart oil and an AC filter every 3K miles plus a quart here and there.

 

[buster]

I have a 2001 with 140k miles on it. It seems to consume oil at high speeds of 75+ MPH, which is what I average everyday. I might go with a heavy wt. oil. What makes me think its the oil is the fact that M1 and Amsoil did better. I didn't have too much of a consumption problem with them.

[ October 31, 2003, 11:54 PM: Message edited by: buster ]

 

[Patman]

If you do decide to go with a thicker oil, why would you choose 15w40? Why not 5w40 or 0w40? You wouldn't want to run a 15w oil through a NJ winter, even though it doesn't get super cold, you'll still possibly see some 0F mornings.

 

[widman]

before giving up, check the PCV valve. It's a $3 repair that can consume tremendous amounts of oil.

 

[buster]

I repalced the PCV valve not to long ago but I think I'll check it again. Patman, a 0w-40 might work. NOAK though isnt so hot with this oil though. The 15w-40/10w-40 is more shear stable and has a NOAK of 6%. Seems like a very good oil.

[ November 01, 2003, 10:33 AM: Message edited by: buster ]

 

[Bob Woods]

The compressions seems great and the car runs very well.

But have you had the engine compression checked?

There is no oil or additive or magic elixer that will make up for a worn engine. On some engines you can replace the valve guide seals without pulling the engine apart or removing the head. If your using oil at high speeds you may have high crankcase pressure caused by worn piston rings. QUIT WASTEING YOUR MONEY ON EXPENSIVE OIL

 

[buster]

quote:

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QUIT WASTEING YOUR MONEY ON EXPENSIVE OIL

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I already warned head-quarters that next summer I'm ready for a new car, so she is ready. Hey, if they can spend hundres of dollars on cloths when they already have 6 clostes full I can buy Oil!

Expensive oil is not very logical at this point though but I might give RL 5w-40 a shot or D1. I'll think about it.

 

[Bob Woods]

Tell HQ your buying expensive oil, buy cheap and put the money in your new car fund.

 

[buster]

In all honesty, all oil is cheap to me. I'm not wealthy at all, but buying oil isn't major expense to me. Plus the point this winter was to go 10k miles on the oil which balances out. The majority of people in my state go to Jiffy Lube and pay $26 every 3k miles for oil changes. I spend that on M1 and go around 5-7k.