Camry Radiator Plugging Up! What about this Plan?

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SWS

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Apr 10, 2004
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Tennessee
I have a '97 Camry 4-Cyl with 66K miles. I bought it new. The coolant was changed by the dealer 3 years ago and he chose to use Texaco green - he said that they were trying to get away from Toyota Red but would not give me the reason. 1 year ago, when the engine was stone cold, I took off the radiator cap and was surprised to see all sorts of green goop around the cap, to the point that it had dented the radiator cap gasket. I drained the radiator, flushed as good as I could with water, and then drove it for a day. Then I repeated this the next day, always flusing with the engine OFF and stone cold. I also cleaned the overflow tank and hose very well - the overflow hose was nearly blocked with green goop! At this point I was satisfied that the engine did not have any green coolant. HOWEVER, I NOTICED WHEN LOOKING DOWN THE RADIATOR CAP THAT THE RADIATOR TUBES WERE FILLING UP WITH HARDENED GREEN GOOP. I decided to refill with Toyota Red, replaced the radiator cap with a new one, and hope that the radiator blockage would dissipate with all of the TLC. I used tap water.

Now (1 year later), the Toyota Red is very clean, and the radiator cap area is spotless. However, after drawing down the coolant level to see the radiator tubes, now I observe a lot of blockage that is white. Looks like white toothpaste!

Here is my plan - what do you think?

1) Remove radiator and have it boiled out and rinsed.

2) Remove the thermostat housing, and block drain and flush with water every which way. Check to see if the engine internals are coated with this stuff.

3) Replace thermostat with a new one while I am at it.

4) Refill 50/50 mix of Toyota Red and distilled water.

Note - I am NOT an advocate of cooling system cleaners, so you can see that I am trying to keep the heavy cleaning chemicals isolated to the radiator. I think that chemically cleaning the engine will suck the grease out of the water pump and make other stuff leak. Yes, my name is Peter Paranoid!

This engine has never overheated, and the temp gauge is at mid-range, just like when it was new. But this engine is one of the Sludge Motors so I want to ensure that it can keep itself cool, if it is so inclined!

I appreciate your comments!

SWS
 
Sounds like you are on the right track.Boil-out for sure and Rood-out
may be require.Be sure to use new thermo-stat with proper heat range.
That should do it.Good Luck !
 
Your dealer's service manager ought to be fired and sentenced to life hospitalization in a terminal stupidity ward. (So much for trusting a dealer's service department to always do the factory specified maintenance. Can't trust anyone these days...) Toyota went to an "OAT" extended life antifreeze/coolant ("red") for a reason. The green goop you found was gelled and hard precipitated silicate - the reason for the switch. Though the old-style, traditional Prestone-type silicate coolants claimed to be safe for aluminum, it turned out it wasn't always so. The phosphates were murder on water pump seals, too. The stuff's just plain obsolete, now that aluminum radiators and cylinder heads are the norm, and many engine blocks are aluminum, too. Standard Prestone is now an "OAT" extended life fluid, free of phosphates for the same reason. So is the latest Wal*Mart "SuperTech" antifreeze/coolant concentrate, though it and the new Prestone are still dyed the old color. I might be wrong, but I don't believe the currently available chemical cleaner/flushes (at least the various Prestone formulations) are anywhere nearly as caustic as those of a few years ago.
 
quote:

I don't believe the currently available chemical cleaner/flushes (at least the various Prestone formulations) are anywhere nearly as caustic as those of a few years ago.

So all the people that I've polled assert (mechanics, parts houses, etc.). They've been mild (allegedly) for quite a while.

Keep a track on your costs here, in time and material. I imagine that the mulitude of "radiator brokers" out there would be happy to sell you a nice old style full metal rad for a very reasonable price. I picked up a 3 core for my Jeep TJ for $159 (formerly as high as $229) and am just waiting for my "throw away" OEM to spring a leak on the plastic seams.

Next day delivery virtually nation wide.
 
I have same car but 98 model.

clogged rad cleaning and flush is about $100, and a new rad is around $165 CDN, so you may want to start off with a clean rad and cleaner than before engine. The existing radiator may have had cracks, or pinholes plugged by the paste now. That might leak soon after that is cleaned.

[ August 30, 2004, 10:54 AM: Message edited by: Hajoca ]
 
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