Cam break in oil for 305 chevy

Status
Not open for further replies.
C

cronk

Joined
Jan 6, 2009
Messages
1,720
Location
Watertown, New York
Hi all, I have a 93 chevy c1500 with a 305 engine. I got an Edelbrock Performer cam kit for it, Being a flat tappet cam, I'm looking for advise on a good break in oil.
I was considering either 15w40 Valvoline Premium blue diesel oil, or 20w50 Valvoline VR1.
I was thinking VR1 due to the large amount of zddp.
 
VR1 would be a good choice for break in and perhaps every oil change after depending on how aggressive that cam is.
 
Originally Posted By: cronk
Hi all, I have a 93 chevy c1500 with a 305 engine. I got an Edelbrock Performer cam kit for it, Being a flat tappet cam, I'm looking for advise on a good break in oil.
I was considering either 15w40 Valvoline Premium blue diesel oil, or 20w50 Valvoline VR1.
I was thinking VR1 due to the large amount of zddp.


Have you already installed the cam kit or are you planning to install it shortly? Do you have the camshaft assembly 'pre-lube'? Be sure to follow INITIAL 'RUN-UP' PROCEDURE that should have been included in the installation instructions. The FIRST 20 MINUTES OF CAM 'BREAK-IN' ARE THE MOST CRITICAL!

Also, if possible 'pre-prime' (pump-up) the lifters by hand prior to installation. If you're not sure how to do this get back with us here.
 
Yes agreed...

Also, VR1 would be good or Rotella diesel oil is another favorite of machine shops...not sure what weight of Rotella, but most likely the dino 10w30 or thicker?
 
Correct, I havn't installed yet, probably in the next couple of weeks. The kit came with lube and instructions, and I am familiar with priming the lifters. I am also installing a double roller timing chain set. The engine has 158k miles on it, but it runs very well.
 
I once did a new RV cam in a '92 305 camaro but it was a factory roller motor...I used Castrol 30wt Heavy Duty for a break in oil...worked fine
 
Edelbrock 3702, Its a truck cam designed for low-mid range torque.
I wanted to get more torque for towing and had some lifters getting noisy anyways, I figured why not give it an upgrade!
 
Originally Posted By: HighRpm
What is the cam pn and etc? have a 305 camaro 1990... real torquey...


That is known as the "peanut cam" in the Chevy world...I upgraded my 305 Camaro and one of the things that helps a lot is cam & gears...
 
Royal Purple has a new oil specifically for "Break In" you may want to consider...

http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html

std-Break-In-Oil.jpg
 
Two replies here. First:

Originally Posted By: SlugGunner


Have you already installed the cam kit or are you planning to install it shortly? Do you have the camshaft assembly 'pre-lube'? Be sure to follow INITIAL 'RUN-UP' PROCEDURE that should have been included in the installation instructions. The FIRST 20 MINUTES OF CAM 'BREAK-IN' ARE THE MOST CRITICAL!

Also, if possible 'pre-prime' (pump-up) the lifters by hand prior to installation. If you're not sure how to do this get back with us here.


I double-plus agree on ALL of this. Using the manufacturer's cam assembly lube is even more important than using the "right" break-in oil. The good cam assembly lubes for flat-tappet cams have a mild etching agent (usually slightly acidic) that ensures that the surface-hardening on the cam lobes has the right texture to aid oil retention under extreme pressures. Be careful you don't get the lobe break-in lubricant on the bearings! If the initial break-in is done with the proper assembly lube AND the right way (usually ~20 minutes at not less than 2000 RPM or more than 2500 RPM) then a mild cam like yours will live fine with any oil you use later (including SM with minimal ZDDP).

And:

Originally Posted By: FastSUV


I just could never bring myself to break anything in on synthetic...even if they did add more ZDDP and moly, etc in that oil you mention


The link makes it clear that RP's break-in oil is MINERAL base stock.

But synthetic base stock works for all the manufacturers that use it as factory fill... and they don't even use a special break-in synthetic. The early synthetic makers did themselves a disservice years ago by promoting the idea that synthetic base stock is somehow "slipperier" than other base stock. It resists heat breakdown better, it cleans better, but it (by itself) doesn't lubricate significantly better- certainly not enough to prevent break-in.
 
Last edited:
Well the pic clearly says "Synthetic Oil" on the bottle...and I thought their oil was GP-IV so I guess you are saying they used a GP-III for this particular oil?
 
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Well the pic clearly says "Synthetic Oil" on the bottle...and I thought their oil was GP-IV so I guess you are saying they used a GP-III for this particular oil?


They're actually a little self-contradictory about what the break-in oil is. If you look at the MSDS for it, its essentially identical to their motor oil MSDS, right down to saying that the base stock is synthetic.

However, the web page that NHHEMI linked clearly says, "Royal Purple combines highly refined mineral oil, preferred for engine break-in, with advanced additives containing high levels of zinc and phosphorus to optimize protection in flat-tappet and roller engines."

My hunch is that they just re-hashed their regular motor oil MSDS and their bottle logo since its sufficiently accurate as a catch-all, rather than create a specific one for their lone mineral-derived product.
 
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Well the pic clearly says "Synthetic Oil" on the bottle...and I thought their oil was GP-IV so I guess you are saying they used a GP-III for this particular oil?


I can't say for sure if it is full synthetic or full conventional? I really don't know. The web page on it, as the other guy said, talks about mineral oil so who knows? May be some kind of blend or Grp III as you suggest?

However, the synthetic wording you are talking about on the front of the bottle is part of their company logo. Everything they sell has that RP/Synthetic Oil logo on it from the tubes of grease to the aerosol spray lube to the power steering fluid to the coolant additive. Everything has it.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Muffy
hey what are the specs on that cam anyways?


The specs are 194 Intake 214 Exhaust

This is at 0.500 lift

Just Google Edelbrock 3702 Camshaft and you can get all of the information.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: c3po
Originally Posted By: Muffy
hey what are the specs on that cam anyways?


The specs are 194 Intake 214 Exhaust

This is at 0.500 lift

Just Google Edelbrock 3702 Camshaft and you can get all of the information.


standard "RV" cam
 
Ok, here is another option I have.
I have some Wolfs Head 10w40 and some Lucas break in additive(contains extra ZDDP).
So I have 3 options
Valvoline VR1 20w50
15w40 HDEO
or the 10w40 with additive.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

53' Stude
Oil choice for mild 305 Chevy small block in a caprice
Replies
17
Views
725
53' Stude
D
Ford FE with roller cam oil?
Replies
13
Views
605
kschachn
C
Oil for 73 Nova 350sbc est.3k mile a year
2
Replies
32
Views
1K
Kennedy01
M
Which oil for breaking in 2024 F250 7.3?
3 4 5
Replies
80
Views
3K
Randy_R
S
Will VR1 kill the Cat in my '87 911?
Replies
19
Views
923
930.engineering
Back
Top