Hello, I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GT that has been burning a lot of oil recently. I have little black specs on the rear bumper near my exhaust. I have been using Mobile 1 High Mileage Synthetic in it for the past 2 oil changes, seeing as I just bought the car 6 months ago. I was wondering if I should up the viscosity of the oil or add something to clean out the engine such as Bars or Royal Purple. My car calls for 5w30. Any questions about it will be answered asap. Any advice given will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Burning Oil Question
- Thread starter Trizzy
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Welcome to BITOG. How many miles on the car? Do you know the history of the car, what the previous owner used for oil, the grade, and OCI? Is the PCV system clean and operating properly? Answer these questions it will help getting an answer for you.
You might also want to try MMO or Kreen to clean up the engine if it has high miles and unknown service history.
You might also want to try MMO or Kreen to clean up the engine if it has high miles and unknown service history.
There are currently 166,000 miles on the car. The person who sold me the car did not know what their brother put in it seeing as they passed away. As for the OCI they said every 3,000. The PCV should be? I haven't ran a compression test on it yet. A forum I'm apart of, say that the manufacturer had a flaw in the making of the 2000-2002 GT model engines. They said they added over sized rings and regular sized pistons so the oil just leaks through and gets burned.
What is the rate of consumption?
I deal with a few serious oil-burners or leakers in my "extended family" of cars, and my approach is generally to put on a high quality filter and the cheapest on-sale oil I can get. If you're leaking more than a quart per 1000 miles, then due to continual top-ups your crankcase never has more than an average of about 3000 miles on the oil. It's not hard to do the math to convince yourself of this. Using a superior filter will let you run this way for 10k or more before needing a new filter. I usually do a complete oil change anyway because it just feels better emptying the crankcase.
I deal with a few serious oil-burners or leakers in my "extended family" of cars, and my approach is generally to put on a high quality filter and the cheapest on-sale oil I can get. If you're leaking more than a quart per 1000 miles, then due to continual top-ups your crankcase never has more than an average of about 3000 miles on the oil. It's not hard to do the math to convince yourself of this. Using a superior filter will let you run this way for 10k or more before needing a new filter. I usually do a complete oil change anyway because it just feels better emptying the crankcase.
If its the 1.8L 1zz-fe engine its not the rings in that year its clogged piston oil return holes which are almost impossible to clean without a teardown. Wont matter what oil you use, it will still burn. The only resolution is to clear the tiny holes. I have had some success with Kreen/M1 HM but not always. Try some Kreen piston soaks and hope it works.
How much oil in how many0 miles. Black 'specs' sound like more of a carbon issue instead of oil on a tailpipe. Engine just may be worn badly and oil is not the issue.
I would try dosing with Kreen...
Originally Posted By: Trizzy
A forum I'm apart of, say that the manufacturer had a flaw in the making of the 2000-2002 GT model engines. They said they added over sized rings and regular sized pistons so the oil just leaks through and gets burned.
Sounds like a bunch of barf, oversize rings would bind in a std cylinder and cause so much scoring it probably wouldn't run 30 minutes... If the cylinder is oversize to fit the rings, the std pistons would be slapping around like a diesel on a cold morning...
A forum I'm apart of, say that the manufacturer had a flaw in the making of the 2000-2002 GT model engines. They said they added over sized rings and regular sized pistons so the oil just leaks through and gets burned.
Sounds like a bunch of barf, oversize rings would bind in a std cylinder and cause so much scoring it probably wouldn't run 30 minutes... If the cylinder is oversize to fit the rings, the std pistons would be slapping around like a diesel on a cold morning...
Have an 01 Celica GT, 85k burning 1 qt every 5000, so it's not bad yet. When did you start seeing consumption? Actually, you didn't mention how much it consumed.
Sorry but no amount of magic oil is going to cure worn cylinders and rings if that is the case. It will be an oil burner and low performer.
Oil leaking through valve oil seals is an easier fix though.
Sounds as if it needs honing and new oversize pistons/rings fitting.
Oil leaking through valve oil seals is an easier fix though.
Sounds as if it needs honing and new oversize pistons/rings fitting.
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I`d try (as someone mentioned already) A good ole piston soaking. Cant hurt anything.
If it is worn out Valve Guides nothing in a bottle will fix that. Everything you mentioned are band aids. There is nothing wrong with band aids if you are using them as you are saving money to have your car fixed. Or if you are trying to limp your car along until you have to junk her. Just keep in mind while you are using a higher viscosity oil or a HM version the problems are still there you are just "hiding" the problems.
HOW MUCH IN OIL IN HOW MANY MILES?
Originally Posted By: Trizzy
Do any of you think that worn out Valve Guides could be the issue and is there a way to fix it without re-doing the whole head/engine? Maybe thicker oil? Or will Kreen still work?
Any car can have any mechanical problem, so i would be guessing. The main reported problem on the 99-01 1zz-fe 1.8L engine (mine included) is massive oil consumption from clogged oil return piston holes. Happens quite easily using cheap dino and neglecting timely oil changes. Holes are too small, not enough of them, near a hotspot.
Repeated cleanings are your only hope other than teardown. Its a shame a major engine teardown is required for 5 mins of drilling, enlarging, and adding a couple of oil holes to the pistons. Once you break the engine down to that extent, you may as well rebuild.
Repeated Kreen piston soaks, running it in the oil are an option that may work. Using a good synthetic oil also may clear them over time. Until the holes are cleared you will consume oil no matter what you use. At least if your using synthetic, your making an attempt to resolve it. Cheap thick dino = dead end.
I'm currently running T6 and then Kreen at the end of the OC, too early to report results.
Clogged Holes
Holes enlarged, cleared, additional holes added
Do any of you think that worn out Valve Guides could be the issue and is there a way to fix it without re-doing the whole head/engine? Maybe thicker oil? Or will Kreen still work?
Any car can have any mechanical problem, so i would be guessing. The main reported problem on the 99-01 1zz-fe 1.8L engine (mine included) is massive oil consumption from clogged oil return piston holes. Happens quite easily using cheap dino and neglecting timely oil changes. Holes are too small, not enough of them, near a hotspot.
Repeated cleanings are your only hope other than teardown. Its a shame a major engine teardown is required for 5 mins of drilling, enlarging, and adding a couple of oil holes to the pistons. Once you break the engine down to that extent, you may as well rebuild.
Repeated Kreen piston soaks, running it in the oil are an option that may work. Using a good synthetic oil also may clear them over time. Until the holes are cleared you will consume oil no matter what you use. At least if your using synthetic, your making an attempt to resolve it. Cheap thick dino = dead end.
I'm currently running T6 and then Kreen at the end of the OC, too early to report results.
Clogged Holes
Holes enlarged, cleared, additional holes added
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