built honda motor

Messages
2
Location
houston
i was linked here and ive been reading this forum for... like 3 hours now. and all i have to say is yall are some sick bastards and if i had a fetish (not saying i dont...) it wouldnt be about oil [Big Grin] [Cheers!] . but on top of that this is a very good site and there is more information than i can get a hold of in one night [HAIL 2 U!] . so, now i want yalls recommendations if you dont mind. ive done many searches and saw nothing directly related to this. i am building an all out, break the bank, all motor honda. 2 liter, 13:1, giant cams, 9500 rpm, etc. -is the old break-in with dino oil saying still a key thing?, or more specifically, would breaking in with a high moly oil be the thing to do? taking into account honda's factory oil, although this is a sleeved motor, not stock cylinders. -i plan to be full syn, depending on breakin choice of course, by 1500 miles. (my routine has always been to change at 300, 600, then 1500, then the every 3k). what do you suggest for an extreme high rpm engine? ive been leaning towards amsoil or 0w-20 torco, but there is so little info/experience with torco. mobil 1 has always been the base standard in my mind, and above that would be redline, amsoil, etc. in which case i definitely want something better than the base. just that last bit i cant decide without help. again, great site, and thanks for any help. John
 
Messages
199
Location
Michigan
Just curious what motor are you gonna run? Is it the F20C or the K20A motor? [ June 19, 2003, 12:28 AM: Message edited by: HondaRD ]
 

Jay

Messages
1,607
Location
Idaho Falls, ID
If the engine has steel sleeves then go for a high-moly break-in oil, and keep using it for at least 5,000 mi. There's a VOA of Torco 20w-50 that had about 1250ppm moly in it. I don't know if their 0w-20 would have a similar add package. Redline is also a high-moly oil.
 

night

Thread starter
Messages
2
Location
houston
F20 or K20 [Eek!] , not quite. its a B20/B16 head. powerwise, 240+ is for sure, beyond that is tuning and what header i get. i may yet end up with ITB's as well, but hard to say. it will dragged quite a bit, and i will run lapping days every chance i get, but im in houston and its a long ways to any tracks. so it probly wont be often enough for me [Frown] . the sleeve's material... i just found a good shop to sleeve it, but im not quite ready to do that yet, so i dont know details. i'll find that out here soon. what i do like about redline is i can drive out and buy it off the shelf.
 
Messages
113
Location
Atlanta, GA
Ah....i know what youre doing! I used to own a 99' Si(R) B16A2 (man i miss that engine!) and we used to discuss the idea (a few years ago people had just started do this sort of thing) of a frankenstein B20 block B16 head. Glad to hear youre putting in new con roads and pistons etc. anyways, for that motor i would run no less than an A3/B3 xW-30 syn oil like the new German Syntec 0w-30. But for sure Mobil 1 0w-40. Heck depending on your oil pump and passages (i hope youre gonna have them smoothed out a bit) you could prolly run M1 15-50 or ELF 15-40. The ELF is hard to find however. Anotehr option instead of M1 is AGIP EuroSports 5w-50 or Extra HTS 5w-40.The 5w-40 is a low (relatively) 40vis. oil as its cts. @ 100C is 13.8. Lastly, Kendall GT-1 syn 5w-40 is another awesome oil and I would even use it over M1 0w40 (ive used both and even though i havent done a UOA for concrete tests results the kendall is only $3.60 qt from a distributor. OTherwise youll pay $5 qt. at a store for it. ITs PAO based oil too. Good luck! Im building a MAzda 2.5L KL-03 engine to go in a 91' MX-3. Engine only has 165hp stock but, when Im done, i hope to have almost 200hp. its really a sweet and smooth revving V6.
 
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