Broken exhaust valve

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Tommiee

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So i had the fuel injectors checked, and they're done, spray pattern is way off on 2 of them and one of these 2 do only get like 60-70% of their capacity.. 1 is good and 1 leaks after shutoff. they had them cleaned ultrasonic the whole morning but they don't get better. Going to get me 4 new ones. The rs4 injectors are sometimes used but they're not ideal because they have a different spray pattern then the S3 injectors and the RS4 injectors are designed to work at a different rail pressure. They do work on a 2.0 BUT there are issues when using them. Going to get me 4 new S3/R20's, too bad that they aren't cheap, gonna cost me another 450 euro's..
 
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I don't know anything about Turbo Volkswagons, But know a few things about boosted engines in general. If your close to maxing out those injectors duty cycle at full tilt.....You NEED bigger injectors! I'm running stock LS3 39 pound per hour injectors on the L92 in my Camaro at 84% duty cycle at full tilt, If this was a boosted engine.....I would be concerned!
 

Tommiee

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Clinebanger, s3 injectors are capabable of flowing fuel for 500+ HP, so not gonna need anything bigger. The bottleneck it the high pressure fuel pump, cam driven. I already have an update pump to pump 130+ Bar. The problem is the spray pattern, some don't 'mist' but spray. And one doesnt get out it's flow that it should have.
 

Tommiee

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After some searching, S3's are good for max 450 crank horsepower. Not going to get her more tuned than this, 366 hp so there's enough play
 

Tommiee

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Head and rods/pistons are @ the engine shop. Head will be cleaned from carbon build up, probably a ultrasonic bath with a specialist chemical or something like that. Rods are checled and the pistons are mounted in the rods, couldnt do that myself because they're press-fit. Also got all my other parts in stock now, injectors, stretch-bolts here and there and a load of seals. Plan to put her back together friday. Hopefully the head and pistons are ready by then..
 

Tommiee

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Update, some pics for u guys! note the MOS2 that falled out of suspension. car hasn't run for 6 weeks after the pan was dropped. Oil in sump was Total Quartz 9000 5W40 wit a 200ml can of Liqui Moly MOS2 oil additive
 
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I don't use the LM after I found a load of it in the bottom of my oil pan, the car sits all summer or winter so it has a long time to fall out of suspension, the problem is next OC you add more and and the old stuff stays on the bottom of the pan, it does not mix again. Next season even more drops out so after a few years you have a real mess in the bottom of the pan, it doesn't drain out with an oil change. Bad stuff for car see seasonal service or a lot of down time. Glad you posted this I took flack for it, engine sound like its coming together nicely. Nice 4 hole piston squirters on that engine, it must really lube the pins and cool things off well, the bores look great. Thanks for the pictures. Good thread!
 

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Yes i think i'm not putting any mos2 back in there, Motul X-cess 5w40 should do the trick on it's own good enough. Would have finished the engine past friday, but the engine shop didn't had the head ready yet ( was a bit disappointed about that, have been pushing them to have the head finished that day, because they had the head in the shop for 2 weeks by then.. ) they better have it ready this week. whistle
 

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So the head is mounted again, rod bearings are renewed and the pistons in place. Only have to wait for a oil pump chain cap and then she'll run again. Probably finished monday. The head looks great and is spotless inside, they replaces 2 exhaust valves, all of the valve guides and seals and seated all valves in. He though the amount of wear on the guides was extreme, especially considered the low mileage. Can't wait to fire her up again!
 

Tommiee

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The rod is excellent trav! Honestly i don't know what material guides is used. Most excessive wear was on the exhaust side. Maybe the previous owner has driven the car low of oil? Bought some cheap 10w40 brand "techno" for running in. Will drain the oil after 200/300 miles and put in Motul 8100 x-cess 5w40
 
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That is good news about the rod, it is strange about the guides wearing like that. They have been sealing the stems tight for years and using self lubricating guides. Not to date myself but I remember old Buick engines that didn't use seals on the exhaust guides to lube them better, not that that could be done today.
 
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Originally Posted By: Tommiee
So the head is mounted again, rod bearings are renewed and the pistons in place. Only have to wait for a oil pump chain cap and then she'll run again. Probably finished monday. The head looks great and is spotless inside, they replaces 2 exhaust valves, all of the valve guides and seals and seated all valves in. He though the amount of wear on the guides was extreme, especially considered the low mileage. Can't wait to fire her up again!
I am surprised you got by doing an in frame rebuild. With the way that piston looked I would be amazed it the cylinder wall was still good enough to not be bored. Did you just hone it and call it good?
 

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Got really lucky that the cylinder wall was in perfect condition. So yes after talking with the engine shop and showed them pictures, they also said hone it and your good to go.
 
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Those cylinders were honed? Maybe its just my phone but the last hole doesn't look that good. However, I lost #4 piston on our 4.0 and after honing looked good and wasn't ovaled.....
 
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Originally Posted By: Tommiee
Got really lucky that the cylinder wall was in perfect condition. So yes after talking with the engine shop and showed them pictures, they also said hone it and your good to go.
You just busted the glaze and checked the ring end gaps with a feeler gauge correct? There is nothing wrong with that if the bores were good.
 
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