Broken Bolt for Coil

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ltslimjim

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^Just what I needed. Thanks a million! A local HF have some 'so-so' right angle drills but are corded so it'd be one more thing to avoid getting in the way. I suppose that's fine. Thanks for the tip on drill vs adapter. I thought the same thing looking at it. A single-piece drill/tool seems much more practical than dealing with 2 separate tools. So, can I use bits like the ones you linked to start punching the smaller hole into the bolt and progressively going bigger to the point I might can back it out by using only the bits in a set set like that? My BIL has a hand-held iron punch that I can use to try to shock the threads/break some of the corrosion and I may use more of the Sea Foam Deep Creep I have for the heck of it. Aside from the technique on slower drill speed, what also in regards to a cutting fluid? You mean penetrant or something used for when cutting metal on metal?
 
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Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
So, can I use bits like the ones you linked to start punching the smaller hole into the bolt and progressively going bigger to the point I might can back it out by using only the bits in a set set like that? Aside from the technique on slower drill speed, what also in regards to a cutting fluid? You mean penetrant or something used for when cutting metal on metal?
Yes you can start with the smallest and work your way up, at some point when there is very little of the bolt left the left handed drill will probably spin it out. Use something like a tap cutting fluid, it should be on the same page at Amazon, its for drilling also. If you see any smoke coming from the drill bit stop and use more fluid to cool it.
 

ltslimjim

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Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
So, can I use bits like the ones you linked to start punching the smaller hole into the bolt and progressively going bigger to the point I might can back it out by using only the bits in a set set like that? Aside from the technique on slower drill speed, what also in regards to a cutting fluid? You mean penetrant or something used for when cutting metal on metal?
Yes you can start with the smallest and work your way up, at some point when there is very little of the bolt left the left handed drill will probably spin it out. Use something like a tap cutting fluid, it should be on the same page at Amazon, its for drilling also. If you see any smoke coming from the drill bit stop and use more fluid to cool it.
Ah, gotcha. Thanks again. I'm asking around for some friends if they have a right-angle drill before buying one. Will report back post-attempts. thumbsup EDIT: Could I pick up a set of bits from HF like these instead of buying the ones on Amazon? http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piece-left-hand-drill-bit-set-95146.html
 
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I have a Fit. Please re-read my post about removing the Cowling and Pan, you will have a ton of room to work. What I said is the "normal" procedure for changing the spark plugs. Using a center punch and a brand new cobalt drill bit, preferably left handed as mentioned, you will get it out easily. I have been successful removing small bolts by punching them, adding a bit of penetrant, and using an old drill bit ground flat with the drill set to reverse and it even gets them out without an extractor (If you can't find a small left handed bit).
 
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Forget the extractor, you will end up with a broken extractor in the bolt and real trouble, some are so hard they need an electron drill to remove them, you don’t need that.
I agree, I've broken an extractor off and had to pull a head for an egr fitting once. The extractors are very hard/brittle you cannot feel them give any, the just suddenly snap without warning. Make sure you use some anti-seize on the bolts when they go back in , if you don't want to fight this again.
 
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Originally Posted By: Falken
I have a Fit. Please re-read my post about removing the Cowling and Pan, you will have a ton of room to work. What I said is the "normal" procedure for changing the spark plugs. Using a center punch and a brand new cobalt drill bit, preferably left handed as mentioned, you will get it out easily. I have been successful removing small bolts by punching them, adding a bit of penetrant, and using an old drill bit ground flat with the drill set to reverse and it even gets them out without an extractor (If you can't find a small left handed bit).
@ Falken: 07 fit (1st gen) doesn't have a removable cowling flap to begin with. All subsequent fit release comes with it, and their engines are more "recessed" into the firewall cavity than ever. Q.
 
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07 FIT (1st gen): This is all the clearance you got w/o removing the intake manifold. You can try creeping in from cyl#1 side, with a bit more clearance. Fact is: #4 (where OP broke is screw) is the farthest one away from it still: Where by finger pointing is cyl#4 coil. Q.
 
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Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
Could I pick up a set of bits from HF like these instead of buying the ones on Amazon?
I cant say, i never used any HF bits, the ones on Amazon are at least cobalt, for sure not M42 cobalt (higher grade, expensive) but good enough for this small job. You have one shot at doing this right, i would use at least a halfway decent bit. If you drill the first hole and it doesn't spin out keep going up one size, it may not spin out at all. Do not use an extractor until there is almost no threads at all left. Use a fluted or multi spline style not a spiral just to get the last remain threads out, it wont take much pressure. I'm visualizing this as i type, i just did 6 on a VW exhaust manifold flange where even after overnight soaking and heating with a smoke wrench wouldn't budge them, and one on an F150 running board in the frame for my neighbor. If you were nearby i would just come over and get it out for ya, it easier than describing how to do it. LOL
 
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I got a pack of burrs from my dentist, chucked them up in my dremel and carefully had at the bolt. The drill had wondered off center and I was able to slowly eat the bolt away to the place I could take a dental pick and remove the threads as Trav described. Slow and steady for best results. YMMV Smoky
 
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