Bringing Oil to Full Operating Temperature

[Bryanccfshr]

Fresh make-up air comes in from the positive crankcase ventilation system's fresh air line (usually on opposite valve cover), which gets filtered air off the intake duct after it's been filtered (ie, downstream of the air filter). Every PCV system has a dirty and clean side. Dirty side gets sucked into the intake manifold to be burned, and the clean side is the fresh filtered make-up air.

Good to know.

 

[Graham Piccinini]

Actually, a thicker oil will warm up QUICKER, because more friction will be generated in pumping it throughout the engine.

All I know is with thicker oils and short trips that little engine has A LOT more white "condensation" build up anywhere below 60F outisde. The white sludge looking buildup under the oil cap is what I'm referring to. That tells me that oil isn't warming up enough to get rid of moisture in oil. That condensation is considerably less with 0W20.

 

[gregdesau]

My O my ... you make an accusation and then run away and hide under the covers when asked for an explanation. A very mature and adult way of handling the situation. Hope you had a good night's sleep and pleasant dreams.

-_-

How do I delete/block him?

 

[Silver]

I just don't know that this is actually a problem.

 

[kschachn]

-_-

How do I delete/block him?

You joined just to ask how to block someone in your first post?

This already odd thread gets odder and odder.

 

[haggler]

change at severe interval, not necessary to waste gas just to remove stuff from the sump.

 

[gregdesau]

You joined just to ask how to block someone in your first post?

This already odd thread gets odder and odder.

I joined to find some answers, because BITOG would've let me use my old login... and now these annoying, passive-aggressive people who don't like the answers they're getting, plug up the thread...forcing ME to ask how I can block them. That's all. BTW, I figured it out.

 

[kschachn]

I joined to find some answers, because BITOG would've let me use my old login... and now these annoying, passive-aggressive people who don't like the answers they're getting, plug up the thread...forcing ME to ask how I can block them. That's all. BTW, I figured it out.

What was your old user name?

 

[BMW Dom]

I joined to find some answers, because BITOG would've let me use my old login... and now these annoying, passive-aggressive people who don't like the answers they're getting, plug up the thread...forcing ME to ask how I can block them. That's all. BTW, I figured it out.

You can hover over their name and click "Ignore"

 

[partspro]

No ... my question was to get an idea as to how long/far I might need to drive to reach full operating temp. Since I make long drives every now and then with the express purpose of bringing the oil to full operating temp, and the car has no temp gauge, I was wondering if I'm driving far enough or long enough to accomplish my goal.

 

[partspro]

no gauge required, drive her like you stole her when the temp gauge shows good the oil is good end of story, move on

 

[DGXR]

no gauge required, drive her like you stole her when the temp gauge shows good the oil is good end of story, move on

Engine temperature and oil temperature are not always equal. The engine reaches full temperature first, and then the oil temp will reach its plateau around 10-20 minutes later, depending on the driving style and ambient conditions. If someone wants to use a hot drive cycle to purify their oil and get out residual moisture and/or some of the fuel dilution, they need to get their OIL to full temp and keep it there, which (in my experience) requires at least 30 minutes of driving from a cold start. Your mileage may vary but the basic concept is sound.