Break-in with GC?

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I ordered a 06 Mitsubishi Lancer EVO IX RS. It is Factory filled with Mobil 1 10w-30. Thinking about dumping it at 150-200mi and using GC.

Would you dump it sooner or leave it in longer?
interested in your advice.
 
I just got a new Forester. I'm going to treat it like I've been doing for 30+ years. Run it for 500-1500 miles, change to a good mineral oil, like Havoline, and run it to about 5000 miles total. I bought some Pennzoil Platinum on sale for 2.08 a quart, and I'll run that in there. If it seems to run fine, I'll keep the PP in it! I'm saving my GC for my Saabaroo (Saab 9-2X). Eventually, they'll probably either both get PP or GC-Gold...or whatever color it is when I run out of my current stash of GC.
 
I was thinking about dumping the oil early to remove any casting flash or metal that may be in the oil. I will put this car on a GC diet its entire life and possibly switch to BC in the summer months depending on my oil temps.
 
leave the mobil 1 in until the engine is broken in. i do not know of any engine manufacturer that wants you to use any fully synthetic oil other than mobil 1 for engine break in. M1 has break in modifiers of some sort. others do not as far as i know. M1 is the factory fill for Porsche, Viper, Corvette ect. if there was anything better to use for the engine, they would use it. the elves are nice and all of that, but i refuse to take advice from men in tights, period.
 
quote:

M1 has break in modifiers of some sort. others do not as far as i know.

I would love to know what is that mysterious, Mobil 1 specific "break-in modifier(s)".
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quote:

M1 is the factory fill for Porsche, Viper, Corvette ect. if there was anything better to use for the engine, they would use it.

Mobil 1 being used as a factory recommended fill has nothing to do with the oil properties.
It's all marketing, my friend.
 
I'd probably run the factory fill out to at least 2,500 miles, make the switch over to GC at that time if you want. I waited until 10,000 miles to switch over to GC on my STi, but the STi comes with conventional oil from the factory. Up until 10k I chenged the oil every 2,500 miles with either conventional oil or semi-synthetic oil.
 
I changed out the Mobil 1 in my 05 GTO at 500 miles. My reasoning is that who knows how many times it was started to just move it a parking space over, or how long it sat there and idled, or how many times it was test driven and driven like it was stolen. I figured it was safer to get the oil that had all the crap in it from whatever abuse it received and get fresh stuff in.
 
I am leaning towards leaving the oil in for at least 3000 miles hoping that Mitsubishi added a shot of break-in additive to it. I did have glitter floating on top and resting on the bottom of break-in oil on the same model car back in 2004. That car ended up being a Lemon, but I do not think it had anything to do with the engine. The transmission was emitting a harmonic vibration that duplicated the knock sensor. I kept getting check engine lights.
 
I'd change it at 500.....most likely a good dino like Havoline/Chevron/Pennz. I'd run it for 1500 miles and then change again to my final choice.
Get the junk out of the engine now! Everyone would agree that a high amount of iron, copper, lead, etc, etc and high amounts of silicon won't do your engine any good. It may not kill the engine, but it certainly won't do it any good.

Oh yeah......I did do this to my Z28 almost 3 years ago. I changed at 6xx miles, but to Mobil 1. Then 3-4000 after that. I wish I had known just a bit better.
 
Break in oil is a load of crap. Change the oil at 500-700 miles. The rate of metal generation will have slowed by then. Even the best filters only catch down to 10 microns. Everything else just sneaks through. The only thing I've ever seen in factory fill that is unique is a heavy dose of moly that is usually in the grease that the cams and such are lubed with during assembly.
 
In my oppinion It wont matter when you drop the oil in the evo. I would leave it in there for 2500 miles since it has M1 in it already. Any particals you talk of the oil filter will catch any harmfull pieces. Just keep an eye on the oil level since it may use some when new.
Mobil wants the high end cars originaly filled from the factory with there oil for marketing is all.
 
I must say, my 170 mile Forester oil change had the darkest, most greenish-tinted oil I've ever seen in a very low mileage changeout. It also had the least amount of glittery-flakes I've ever seen in an early oil changeout. Really strange. Maybe the Subaru filter is better than most, don't know what the greenish tint is all about. Anyway, after 400 mile trip on Havoline 5-30, it didn't burn any, and the oil on the dipstick looks new. Another couple-thousand miles, and in goes Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic.
 
quote:

Originally posted by forcedtalon:
I would leave it in there for 2500 miles since it has M1 in it already. Any particals you talk of the oil filter will catch any harmfull pieces.

Depending on the source, nearly half of all engine wear is caused by particles in the 1-25 micron range. These particles are small enough to get in tight spots and act like liquid sand paper. Even 100 grit sand paper can do the same damage as 10 grit over time. Initial fill is usually packed with these particles. Why keep them in there? It cost $20-$30 to get this garbage out of a high output engine. You're a tard.
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And oil analysis detects the particles in the 3-10 micron range. Id change it also . I just changed my new Vibe at 1500. UOA wasnt steller .
 
quote:

Because the Elves are whispering in his ear "Change the oil to GC. Change the oil to GC. Change the oil to GC...."

They DO love to do that, and I would say at about 1000 miles in this engine they would be right...
 
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