break in procedure from 1963

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That brochure site is awesome - lots of good finds there. Very 'complicated' break-in procedure they outline...I don't think it's necessary today, and even if it was, in todays fast-paced world, who the heck is going to take the time to follow that? 2k OCI's - LOL!
 
*yawn* That's absolutely old-school. It's only applicable back in the honing stone days of machining and no longer practised (unless you are into a DIY based rebuild). Today's engine are pretty much 80% broken in the moment they are installed on the chassis and roll out of the factory. No need to do all these complicated work to ensure further breaking-in. Just drive and enjoy. Q.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
That brochure site is awesome - lots of good finds there. Very 'complicated' break-in procedure they outline...I don't think it's necessary today, and even if it was, in todays fast-paced world, who the heck is going to take the time to follow that? 2k OCI's - LOL!
If you accelerate gradually around here, you`ll have a Dodge Ram grill permanently embedded on the rear of your automobile.
 
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Did you catch the OCI recommendations? Monthly in the winter, every two months in the summer, but never over 2K miles.
 
This sounds like how we used to tell folks to break in rebuilt VW TypeI motors. I don't do this with new cars, though. robert
 
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It's obvious no one replying to this thread has ever built a custom engine. The basic idea in this break in article still holds true today 100% for any engine with pinned rings. Torque plates and design features have eliminated lots of bore eccentricity on newer engines, so this proceedure is less applicable, but not inapplicable.
 
When my MINI Cooper was new it had what I thought at the time were pretty detailed break-in procedures but no where near what this is. However, the basics were pretty much the same - vary engine speed for the first 1,000 miles (IIRC). So, how many of you did this that were buying new cars in the 60's? Come on - fess up
 
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
Found this 1963 brochure on how to properly break-in your engine. Very interesting read. link to brochure What are your comments? My .02 - very interesting, I wonder how much of that is still applicable to today's engines.
These break-in methods make me wonder if new sports cars get a jump start during the break-in process from all the "prospective buyers" test driving the cars spirtedly. And I do agree with most of what the brochure says. I do 3k OCIs with dino and 5k with Group III synthetic, which isn't very far from the 2k recommendation. I would not have exactly followed the "whipping" method unless I had access to a race track, but I would have done something similar with bursts of acceleration and coasting in gear.
 
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Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
Does the coasting in gear actually help bring more oil in like the brochure says?
In manual transmissions, yes. In autos however, the driver will have to force a downshift to let engine braking take effect.
 
back in the late 80s i rebuilt a engine. the guy that i bought the rings said. "buy the time you get the engine put together it will be broke in"
 
Originally Posted By: semaj281
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
Does the coasting in gear actually help bring more oil in like the brochure says?
In manual transmissions, yes. In autos however, the driver will have to force a downshift to let engine braking take effect.
+1 The only problem I see is forcing a downshift with a new AT is not a good idea.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: semaj281
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
Does the coasting in gear actually help bring more oil in like the brochure says?
In manual transmissions, yes. In autos however, the driver will have to force a downshift to let engine braking take effect.
+1 The only problem I see is forcing a downshift with a new AT is not a good idea.
Why not?
 
I pretty much follow that break-in. My speeds are all higher, but same principal. My engine builder used to tell me something very similar. As for forcing an auto to downshift, I hope that's not bad. My auto is in manual mode probably 50% of the time.
 
That's basically how my Cruze got broken in. Between traffic, me wanting to see what it could do at 3/4 throttle, and the hills, it broke in pretty aggressively.
 
Originally Posted By: OceanDoctor
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: semaj281
Originally Posted By: sasilverbullet
Does the coasting in gear actually help bring more oil in like the brochure says?
In manual transmissions, yes. In autos however, the driver will have to force a downshift to let engine braking take effect.
+1 The only problem I see is forcing a downshift with a new AT is not a good idea.
Why not?
Yeah, care to explain? If "forcing a downshift" is not a good idea, why is there a "-" on the manual gate? I don't think the TCM will let you pick a gear that is too low. I haven't tried it that direction yet, but I know for a fact it will not let you shift to 6th until you are above 35 mph. As far as the break-in, I did the first part on my Kawasaki and Suzuki. I never went full throttle in the first 1000 miles though. Both engines had very long lives with no oil consumption issues
 
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