all I did was google How to Make a One Person Brake Bleeder for Under $5 .
Brakes Spongy after replacing rear lines and some other components
- Thread starter JC1
- Start date
You need to bleed the master cylinder if the reservoir ran dry. You ended up sucking air into it, you can buy a kit for cheap at the auto parts store. Just take the lines loose from the master cylinder, attach the bleeder nipples from the kit, attach the included hose to the nipple and submerge the hose in brake fluid. Bleed like you normally would after that.
Thanks I already have a bottle.
Yes that is what I did this afternoon. I have the flaring tool already so I used some hard line with the 10mm flares and then went to Lowe's and bought some clear hose with 1/4 inch outside diameter. After I bled the master cylinder, I did the slow gravity bleed on all the lines. Then put it back together and took it for a test drive.
Thanks everyone for your help.
By the way, the link showing the Edelbrock and Russel bleeder screws show a coating on the threads. Where can a guy get that coating ? It looks like it was applied very uniformly, almost like it was sprayed on. That coating would have to service multiple openings and closings if someone was using the two man method of bleeding the system but only one open and close if using a pressure bleeder.
It is a firm thread sealer. The best thing to use on bleeders is nickel anti seize, remove and clean it off with brake cleaner then apply the product to the threads only. It will not find its way into the caliper or fluid, an air tight connection of the threads is not mandatory as no air will enter the system from the threads but may show up as air bubbles in the bleed hose, the nickel prevents this also even after repeated open and closings.
- Joined
- Oct 28, 2014
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- 1,187
^^^^^What Trav said. I use hose clamp pliers on the rubber lines going to the wheel cylinder so I can remove the bleeder screws completely without a mess of brake fluid all over. I actually use the sharpened end of an old pencil to apply the anti seize right where I want it. You will thank yourself in 2-3 years when you need to bleed them again.
Good excuse to buy a Phoenix reverse fluid injection system like https://www.amazon.com/Phoenix-Systems-2104-B-Reverse-Bleeder/dp/B00GRV800S I've had their pro version for 15 years and although I don't use it much since getting a vacuum system, The 1 or 2 times a year that the vac system still leaves a soft pedal, I get this thing out and it always saves the day.
Bleed.
Yes the master was bled first and then the lines. To top it off I cut my thumb trying to brake off the blade on my olfa utility knife without using a pair of pliers so I bled as well.
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