brakes making a squeal !
- Thread starter kenwin30
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its the combination of your brake pads and brake rotors that are causing the noise.
Not to be funny, but brake squeal just happens. as long as your pads are not worn out, there is no problem with brake squeal other than the annoyance. actually, all brakes squeal - its just that the goal of the brake engineers is to keep the noise outside our range of hearing.
as you apply the brakes on your car, the friction causes heat and vibration/noise. basically, if the resonant frequency of the pads equals the resonent frequency of the rotors, you get that annoying noise.
ok, enough of the jabber, what you really want to know is how to stop it:
1) the best fix is to install a new set of brake pads that are designed to eliminate noise with a properly designed isolation shim.
2) if the noise persists, then it may be neccesary to replace the rotors with a different brand or type
3) sometimes the noise can be eliminated by cleaning the brake caliper contact points and applying a very thin layer of anti-seize compound or silicone grease. there is also a blue anti-squeal goo available that can be applied to the back of the pads that sometimes helps
never apply anything to the friction surface of the pads!
certain cars have a problem with squeal: Honda Oddysee, late model Accords, etc.
I recently fixed an 07 Oddysee (the squeal just magically started at 30k miles) by installing Wagner Thermo Quiet brake pads. cost was around $50 for parts.
Not to be funny, but brake squeal just happens. as long as your pads are not worn out, there is no problem with brake squeal other than the annoyance. actually, all brakes squeal - its just that the goal of the brake engineers is to keep the noise outside our range of hearing.
as you apply the brakes on your car, the friction causes heat and vibration/noise. basically, if the resonant frequency of the pads equals the resonent frequency of the rotors, you get that annoying noise.
ok, enough of the jabber, what you really want to know is how to stop it:
1) the best fix is to install a new set of brake pads that are designed to eliminate noise with a properly designed isolation shim.
2) if the noise persists, then it may be neccesary to replace the rotors with a different brand or type
3) sometimes the noise can be eliminated by cleaning the brake caliper contact points and applying a very thin layer of anti-seize compound or silicone grease. there is also a blue anti-squeal goo available that can be applied to the back of the pads that sometimes helps
never apply anything to the friction surface of the pads!
certain cars have a problem with squeal: Honda Oddysee, late model Accords, etc.
I recently fixed an 07 Oddysee (the squeal just magically started at 30k miles) by installing Wagner Thermo Quiet brake pads. cost was around $50 for parts.
The above is good info.
The only other thing I might suggest is:
Pull the pads out and rough them up with some 120g grit sand paper. Do the same to the rotors, just enough put some good marks on the rotor surface, nothing deep. Then go do some emergency stops going forward, then a few in reverse. This cna reseat the pads to the rotors and will sometimes get rid of the squeal.
Also, if you're the type of person that is a 2 foot driver there's a possibility that you could be putting very light pressure on the brakes causing them to get hot & glaze.
One other thing I've had to tell customers. If you get off the highway and just lightly hold the brake down to slown down slowly from highway speeds this can quickly heat up the brakes and glaze the pads.
The only other thing I might suggest is:
Pull the pads out and rough them up with some 120g grit sand paper. Do the same to the rotors, just enough put some good marks on the rotor surface, nothing deep. Then go do some emergency stops going forward, then a few in reverse. This cna reseat the pads to the rotors and will sometimes get rid of the squeal.
Also, if you're the type of person that is a 2 foot driver there's a possibility that you could be putting very light pressure on the brakes causing them to get hot & glaze.
One other thing I've had to tell customers. If you get off the highway and just lightly hold the brake down to slown down slowly from highway speeds this can quickly heat up the brakes and glaze the pads.
another thing is after machining rotors, make sure they are absolutely clean. i liked to use warm soapy water and then rubbing the rotors with a paper towel until it came clean, then hit it with brake cleaner before installing. on new rotors i follow the pad and rotor manufacturer's individual recommendations.
Funny this thread should show up. A while back my son got the brakes replaced(napa) and rotors turned on his 05 Explorer with~50k. Then they started squeaking, never did with OE factory brakes. Bought them back in, they cleaned up the rotors and put new pads on.(I posted a thread about this at the time.) Ok for a while, but now it is squeaking again.
My suggestion to him is now he should have the shop try Motorcraft (dealer) brakes. So that is the next move, if that doesn't work, then it looks like new rotors.
Does that sound like a reasonable plan? Thoughts?
Not meaning to hijack this thread, just sort of piggy backing.
My suggestion to him is now he should have the shop try Motorcraft (dealer) brakes. So that is the next move, if that doesn't work, then it looks like new rotors.
Does that sound like a reasonable plan? Thoughts?
Not meaning to hijack this thread, just sort of piggy backing.
btw when it comes to ford brakes, Motorcraft does not equal OEM. Motorcraft come in a red box and OEM come in a brown box. Motorcarft are a value line to compete with the aftermarket.
Good info. Earlier I called the parts guy at the local Ford dealer where Explorer was purchased. I asked him about the difference, he said they use Motorcraft when they do the brake jobs.
Guess I'll take him at his word. My experience with other Motorcraft parts (quality) has been good.
On second thought I may just go up there tomorrow, if open, and confirm that Motorcraft is what they use.
Guess I'll take him at his word. My experience with other Motorcraft parts (quality) has been good.
On second thought I may just go up there tomorrow, if open, and confirm that Motorcraft is what they use.
we use motorcraft. people usually freak at the price of OEM pads, usually in the $90-160 range. we tend to only use OEM on larger trucks, F250+ and on police applications.
Thanks for the advise. The shop where they are going to do it, said the OE Ford part would cost substantially more. Truthfully, I learned something here, I didn't know there was a difference. As I said though, with the little I've used them, I've been impressed with Motorcraft quality.
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Good info. Earlier I called the parts guy at the local Ford dealer where Explorer was purchased. I asked him about the difference, he said they use Motorcraft when they do the brake jobs.
Guess I'll take him at his word. My experience with other Motorcraft parts (quality) has been good.
On second thought I may just go up there tomorrow, if open, and confirm that Motorcraft is what they use.
Call the dealer back and get the OEM part # for the pads. Then get the part# of what the shop used. I'll bet they aren't the same part #
Good info. Earlier I called the parts guy at the local Ford dealer where Explorer was purchased. I asked him about the difference, he said they use Motorcraft when they do the brake jobs.
Guess I'll take him at his word. My experience with other Motorcraft parts (quality) has been good.
On second thought I may just go up there tomorrow, if open, and confirm that Motorcraft is what they use.
Call the dealer back and get the OEM part # for the pads. Then get the part# of what the shop used. I'll bet they aren't the same part #
Originally Posted By: AdRock
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Good info. Earlier I called the parts guy at the local Ford dealer where Explorer was purchased. I asked him about the difference, he said they use Motorcraft when they do the brake jobs.
Guess I'll take him at his word. My experience with other Motorcraft parts (quality) has been good.
On second thought I may just go up there tomorrow, if open, and confirm that Motorcraft is what they use.
Call the dealer back and get the OEM part # for the pads. Then get the part# of what the shop used. I'll bet they aren't the same part #
have fun getting the part number. my dealer and a TON of others will not give out part numbers to customers until they get their receipt. too many people do that to just turn around and buy from rockauto or another source. i know my dealer pays a ton of money each month for our parts lookups.
that being said, the Motorcraft pads are not bad at all, they are really good actually. i put the motorcraft super duty pads on my mom's grand marquis and i actually like the pedal feel and stopping of the car. note this is coming from someone who though that Cobra R Brembos on my 98 mustang didnt have enough bite.
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Good info. Earlier I called the parts guy at the local Ford dealer where Explorer was purchased. I asked him about the difference, he said they use Motorcraft when they do the brake jobs.
Guess I'll take him at his word. My experience with other Motorcraft parts (quality) has been good.
On second thought I may just go up there tomorrow, if open, and confirm that Motorcraft is what they use.
Call the dealer back and get the OEM part # for the pads. Then get the part# of what the shop used. I'll bet they aren't the same part #
have fun getting the part number. my dealer and a TON of others will not give out part numbers to customers until they get their receipt. too many people do that to just turn around and buy from rockauto or another source. i know my dealer pays a ton of money each month for our parts lookups.
that being said, the Motorcraft pads are not bad at all, they are really good actually. i put the motorcraft super duty pads on my mom's grand marquis and i actually like the pedal feel and stopping of the car. note this is coming from someone who though that Cobra R Brembos on my 98 mustang didnt have enough bite.
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: AdRock
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Good info. Earlier I called the parts guy at the local Ford dealer where Explorer was purchased. I asked him about the difference, he said they use Motorcraft when they do the brake jobs.
Guess I'll take him at his word. My experience with other Motorcraft parts (quality) has been good.
On second thought I may just go up there tomorrow, if open, and confirm that Motorcraft is what they use.
Call the dealer back and get the OEM part # for the pads. Then get the part# of what the shop used. I'll bet they aren't the same part #
have fun getting the part number. my dealer and a TON of others will not give out part numbers to customers until they get their receipt. too many people do that to just turn around and buy from rockauto or another source. i know my dealer pays a ton of money each month for our parts lookups.
that being said, the Motorcraft pads are not bad at all, they are really good actually. i put the motorcraft super duty pads on my mom's grand marquis and i actually like the pedal feel and stopping of the car. note this is coming from someone who though that Cobra R Brembos on my 98 mustang didnt have enough bite.
Really, I've never had a problem getting a part # from a dealer. But every place is different.
I guess then I would suggest going into the parts dept. and explaining the situation to the parts guy. Tell him you just want to verify that the shop is putting in what they say their putting in. I couldn't see a guy telling you no in that situation unless they're just a ****.
Originally Posted By: AdRock
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Good info. Earlier I called the parts guy at the local Ford dealer where Explorer was purchased. I asked him about the difference, he said they use Motorcraft when they do the brake jobs.
Guess I'll take him at his word. My experience with other Motorcraft parts (quality) has been good.
On second thought I may just go up there tomorrow, if open, and confirm that Motorcraft is what they use.
Call the dealer back and get the OEM part # for the pads. Then get the part# of what the shop used. I'll bet they aren't the same part #
have fun getting the part number. my dealer and a TON of others will not give out part numbers to customers until they get their receipt. too many people do that to just turn around and buy from rockauto or another source. i know my dealer pays a ton of money each month for our parts lookups.
that being said, the Motorcraft pads are not bad at all, they are really good actually. i put the motorcraft super duty pads on my mom's grand marquis and i actually like the pedal feel and stopping of the car. note this is coming from someone who though that Cobra R Brembos on my 98 mustang didnt have enough bite.
Really, I've never had a problem getting a part # from a dealer. But every place is different.
I guess then I would suggest going into the parts dept. and explaining the situation to the parts guy. Tell him you just want to verify that the shop is putting in what they say their putting in. I couldn't see a guy telling you no in that situation unless they're just a ****.
If there are no shims and there are SUPPOSED to be shims on the back of the pads, then you'll get squeal. Talk to your mechanic.
Anti squeal sauce [$6} from your auto parts store on the back of the pads will usually stop squeals, if you want to go that route.
Anti squeal sauce [$6} from your auto parts store on the back of the pads will usually stop squeals, if you want to go that route.
You need something between the pads and caliper. I think years ago a set of pads came with some caulking compound like gunk you spread on the pads and let harden. In more recent years, it was a separate, extra.You could also use plastic shims. A year ago ago, Oreily's wanted to sell a small packet of silicone grease in place of it. I stuck to Sil-Glyde out of the the big tube I used for everything else. I did both the truck and car that way and no squealing.
However,if you paid somebody to do the brakes, and they aren't right, you go back expecting them to correct their mistake.
However,if you paid somebody to do the brakes, and they aren't right, you go back expecting them to correct their mistake.
Squeal after 1000 miles? Take it back and complain.
Or you just have brake dust or some fine debris on the pads. Did any water get on the rotors after you parked? That creates a thin layer of rust which comes off as you drive, which can cause squealing
Do some very hard stops to clear the debris
Do some very hard stops to clear the debris
Just an update. I drove the Explorer for a day before I took it to the shop, never heard a squeal. Spoke to my son, he said both he and his friend could hear it. After the last redo it took a while before it started to make noise.
Anyway, now the Motorcraft brakes are on, so we'll see. I'm beginning to wonder if it's one of these deals where younger people can hear frequencies older folks like myself can't. Or, it could be the way he drives, but the OE brakes didn't do it.
I did notice it looks like they took a circular brush to the rotor again.
Anyway, now the Motorcraft brakes are on, so we'll see. I'm beginning to wonder if it's one of these deals where younger people can hear frequencies older folks like myself can't. Or, it could be the way he drives, but the OE brakes didn't do it.
I did notice it looks like they took a circular brush to the rotor again.
Until they seat again, the sanding/machining marks will quiet things down.
But this is temporary, not a fix.
The rotors will and should smooth out soon.
Shims or sauce on the back of the pads should fix it permanently.
But this is temporary, not a fix.
The rotors will and should smooth out soon.
Shims or sauce on the back of the pads should fix it permanently.
They did put some silver colored stuff on the back of the pads, looks the same as last time. I will say the shop is trying have a satisfied customer. Time will tell, I hope this works.
I suggest greasing the caliper pins with that green Permatex Ultra Brake lube. If there are bushings in the caliper pin holes, consider replacing them.
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