Brake job 2002 Chevy 2500 HD. original brakes

[ls1mike]

Well decided to do the front brakes on the truck. Did the front shocks too. Pads were at 50 percent, but had a slight pulsation in the pedal when towing. Shocks were shot. Once compressed they would not come back. Was like normal brakes but the caliper bracket bolts were a PITA!!! Everything was heavy. Stops like new, rides really nice. Used all OEM GM brake parts to include all new hardware. I never get new caliper pins or caliper bracket bolts. I did for the truck as it sees some severe duty. The front shocks are the same KYB MONOMAXs I have on the rear. They are for towing/hauling. Really firm with no weight on it. Just some photos of the old stuff. Must have gotten a rock under the pad on that one rotor. Not in bad shape for being original and 18 years old, of course it only has 50,000 miles on it.

 

[eljefino]

skookum!

 

[ls1mike]

Originally Posted By: eljefino

skookum!

I don't think I have heard that term used except for the local Native American tribe here in Wa. So you mean...impressive??

 

[artificialist]

So did you buy new rotors, or did you have your old rotors machined?

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: ls1mike

Originally Posted By: eljefino

skookum!

I don't think I have heard that term used except for the local Native American tribe here in Wa. So you mean...impressive??

strong & beefy!

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Looks good for the age, not too many miles. My original brakes on the Fusion are at nearly 119k, still no grooves in the rotors. Looks like Chevy's brakes are spec'd a little better than the suspension and steering components.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Originally Posted By: ls1mike

Originally Posted By: eljefino

skookum!

I don't think I have heard that term used except for the local Native American tribe here in Wa. So you mean...impressive??

Also up here in the Columbia Vally of BC. The village down the road is Skookumchuk. And yes, impressive! .

 

[JHZR2]

The only thing I might reconsider is getting new bracket bolts. I think they're replacement items on many(most/all?) vehicles. On a Kia Rio it may not matter much, but brakes are everything when towing...

 

[ls1mike]

Originally Posted By: artificialist

So did you buy new rotors, or did you have your old rotors machined?

New rotors were 100 bucks a piece shipped. I don't mess with getting rotors turned.

 

[clinebarger]

The brakes on 2500HD GMT-800 trucks last & last. My rear brakes wear faster than the front.....Is that your experience too Mike? My rear brakes lasted for over 200,000 miles....The exhaust brake/hill decent control helps a ton!

 

[ls1mike]

Originally Posted By: clinebarger

The brakes on 2500HD GMT-800 trucks last & last. My rear brakes wear faster than the front.....Is that your experience too Mike? My rear brakes lasted for over 200,000 miles....The exhaust brake/hill decent control helps a ton!

My next and probably last truck will be a diesel. I looked at the back brakes and they looked good. The front ones had tons of pad left. I couldn't believe it. Just wanted to get rid of the warp. Pretty sure I know where it happened. Blewett Pass last summer, got behind a tractor trailer going 20ish mph down a long grade. No exhaust brake on the gasser and the brakes got HOT!

 

[dareo]

i was surprised how beefy the brakes are on these trucks. Really heavy parts.

 

[Trav]

Mike, did you happen to measure the run out before and after? Did you use anything on the hubs eg never seize after cleaning them?

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: Trav

Mike, did you happen to measure the run out before and after? Did you use anything on the hubs eg never seize after cleaning them?

Did you see how clean it was? doubt he needs anti-seize on anything. Darn non-rustbelt vehicles. Sour grapes and all... no, no jealousy here, none at all...

 

[ls1mike]

Originally Posted By: Trav

Mike, did you happen to measure the run out before and after? Did you use anything on the hubs eg never seize after cleaning them?

I did not measure the run out. I didn't really see a need to. The old rotors feel right off, once I got the dang caliper bracket bolts off with a pry bar and 3 foot pipe . Cleaned up the hubs and put a little brake grease on them.

 

[ls1mike]

Originally Posted By: supton

Originally Posted By: Trav

Mike, did you happen to measure the run out before and after? Did you use anything on the hubs eg never seize after cleaning them?

Darn non-rustbelt vehicles. Sour grapes and all... no, no jealousy here, none at all...

LOL, yeah it is nice not have any rust out here. 16 years old not a spot of rust on the truck.

 

[artificialist]

Originally Posted By: ls1mike

Originally Posted By: artificialist

So did you buy new rotors, or did you have your old rotors machined?

New rotors were 100 bucks a piece shipped. I don't mess with getting rotors turned.

Okay. I got concerned when I saw packages for brake pads and no packages for rotors.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: supton

Originally Posted By: Trav

Mike, did you happen to measure the run out before and after? Did you use anything on the hubs eg never seize after cleaning them?

Did you see how clean it was? doubt he needs anti-seize on anything. Darn non-rustbelt vehicles. Sour grapes and all... no, no jealousy here, none at all...

The picture of the hob face is not enough to see any spots that may throw the reading off a few thousands. Believe it or not brand new hubs with new rotors can be out enough to re index the rotor or less common require shims to bring it true. It comes from how the rotors are machined/ground, its a multi step process that requires the piece to be chucked more than once and that's usually where the error occurs. After 16 years up here there wouldn't be much truck left never mind clean hubs. I see truck broken in half at 10 years.