brake fluid
- Thread starter LarryL
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Valvoline Synpower is good but just about any new brake fluid will be better than what you got in there.
Yes you can do it by pumping the pedal, but do not go to the floor, as you can damage internal seals. For just exchanging fluid and not tring to bleed, gravity drain works fine for me. I just open the bleed screw until it just starts to drain and let it drain until clear. You have to close the bleed screw and go top off the MC once in a while.
The engine should not be running when you are working on the brakes.
Yes you can do it by pumping the pedal, but do not go to the floor, as you can damage internal seals. For just exchanging fluid and not tring to bleed, gravity drain works fine for me. I just open the bleed screw until it just starts to drain and let it drain until clear. You have to close the bleed screw and go top off the MC once in a while.
The engine should not be running when you are working on the brakes.
Tones,
I have used a one man bleeder to flush my brake fluid. If I read you correctly I should not be pushing the brake pedal to the floor? When you say it can damage internal seals do you mean the calipers and wheel cylinders, or the master cylinder, or both?
Thanks, Scott
I have used a one man bleeder to flush my brake fluid. If I read you correctly I should not be pushing the brake pedal to the floor? When you say it can damage internal seals do you mean the calipers and wheel cylinders, or the master cylinder, or both?
Thanks, Scott
Junk can build up in the far ends of the bores of the master cylinder and damage the cups if the piston is forced back there. Just one of several ways to cause problems messing about with flushes not needed for a street machine.
I use the fishtank hose and bottle method. And Speedbleeders or a helper on the pedal.
Do the newer ABS systems make flushes more difficult?
And what's up with the new Ate SL.6?
http://www.ate.fotocentrum.de/ATE_DownloadPDF/140163.pdf
Do the newer ABS systems make flushes more difficult?
And what's up with the new Ate SL.6?
http://www.ate.fotocentrum.de/ATE_DownloadPDF/140163.pdf
labman,
I respect your knowledge and experience from this and other posts. However I do not understand your statement about flushes "not needed for a street machine." Since brake fluid is by nature hygroscopic and absorbs moisture, what harm could be caused by the proper flushing of water infused and contaminated brake fluid? Are you saying the brake fluid is probably good for the life of the original calipers, wheel cylinders, seals, etc?
Scott
I respect your knowledge and experience from this and other posts. However I do not understand your statement about flushes "not needed for a street machine." Since brake fluid is by nature hygroscopic and absorbs moisture, what harm could be caused by the proper flushing of water infused and contaminated brake fluid? Are you saying the brake fluid is probably good for the life of the original calipers, wheel cylinders, seals, etc?
Scott
No, ABS systems use DOT 3 or 4, same as everything else.
In some rare odd ball cases, you'll need DOT 5, a silicon based fuild not compatible with 3,4 or 5.1.
DOT 3,4 and 5.1 are water absorbing, compatable with each other, and most widely used. Major differences are high boiling point, nothing else.
In some rare odd ball cases, you'll need DOT 5, a silicon based fuild not compatible with 3,4 or 5.1.
DOT 3,4 and 5.1 are water absorbing, compatable with each other, and most widely used. Major differences are high boiling point, nothing else.
Oh, and if you missed it...ATE SL6 is DOT 4 fluid, which says meets and exceeds DOT 3/4 specs. They all say that when ABS specs are met.
Also, the chart shown is 100% for marketing/sales only. "PAR" is right on the money here...the chart is useless. No units.
Also, the chart shown is 100% for marketing/sales only. "PAR" is right on the money here...the chart is useless. No units.
Kestas
Staff member
I believe the only commercial vehicle that requires DOT 5 is Harley-Davidson motorcycles. It is specified mainly for its inert properties with regard to the paint finish.
I've never seen brake fluid classified with any viscosity grades. With regard to viscosity, brake fluid is a one-size-fits-all.... ABS or no ABS.
ive read a few TSBs that say only DOT 3 should be used in ABS systems unless otherwise stated by te vehicle manufacturer. the DOT 3 fluids are generally thinner and flow through the solenoids easier.
DOT 4 will be easier on systems that have natural rubber than DOT 3.
I recommend a change in fluid every couple of years, as humidity does get in, especially with people who like to take the cap off to look at the fluid. I've analized brake fluids with 25% water. (very thick) others with only 6%. In any event, it lowers your braking power and gives you a spongy pedal.
I recommend a change in fluid every couple of years, as humidity does get in, especially with people who like to take the cap off to look at the fluid. I've analized brake fluids with 25% water. (very thick) others with only 6%. In any event, it lowers your braking power and gives you a spongy pedal.
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