Brake fluid change ?
- Thread starter nomas
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I think you answered your own question?
I would have likely have simply done it even if were not part of the maintenance schedule.
Have it check out with a chemical test. Many places offer it for free. The fluid may look good to you but unless you have a strip to compare the color then it is only an opinion.
I would have likely have simply done it even if were not part of the maintenance schedule.
Have it check out with a chemical test. Many places offer it for free. The fluid may look good to you but unless you have a strip to compare the color then it is only an opinion.
While I think replacing brake fluid every so many years is a good idea, you mention warranty, "comply" and "recommend". There's zero connection there. You certainly won't hurt / impact / cancel your warranty if you don't do this.
Its a PIA to flush the braking system. If it looks new, make sure you figure out a way to make sure they actually change it. I don't trust ANYONE working on my vehicle's.
This thing makes it incredibly easy to do a 1 person bleed. Additions would be a gatorade bottle, longer hose with a magnet to place it above the caliper.
Brake fluid change is a super easy task . . . if you have the right tools. If not, you are much better off paying someone else to do it for you.
I have a Motive brake bleeder and a brake fluid capture bottle. This makes it kind of fun to change brake fluid. And if I'm a little OCD about being careful, I can bleed all four brakes and top off the master cylinder without a single drip.
So yes, I would be changing brake fluid at 40k mile intervals. I personally do it at 30k on my wife's Outback. The Mercedes maintenance schedule for my E350 calls for brake fluid change every 20k miles. That is perhaps more frequent than necessary, but it is cheap and easy. So why not.
I have a Motive brake bleeder and a brake fluid capture bottle. This makes it kind of fun to change brake fluid. And if I'm a little OCD about being careful, I can bleed all four brakes and top off the master cylinder without a single drip.
So yes, I would be changing brake fluid at 40k mile intervals. I personally do it at 30k on my wife's Outback. The Mercedes maintenance schedule for my E350 calls for brake fluid change every 20k miles. That is perhaps more frequent than necessary, but it is cheap and easy. So why not.
I just noted that you live in the South, which means high humidity. I would most definitely be changing brake fluid every 40k miles.
True. Very True.
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I change the brake fluid about every two years. I have never had a failed caliper on any vehicle that I have maintained in this manner. The best $55 I have ever spent was for a brake bleeder. I modified it to accept the quick disconnect couplings and have the cap adapters for all of my vehicles. I don't put the brake fluid in the container but rather keep the reservoir topped off while I push the fluid through the system. I spend 30 minutes on each vehicle every two years and this includes wheel removal.
You can't go by looks in most cases.
If you fail to do recommend or suggested maintenance and something does go wrong they can use in their support that you should have followed the recommended or suggested service.
As I said there are MANY paces that will test the fluid for free. If you get a card that shows what the state of fluid is like and something were to happen you would at least have that to show the fluid was still ok?
If you fail to do recommend or suggested maintenance and something does go wrong they can use in their support that you should have followed the recommended or suggested service.
As I said there are MANY paces that will test the fluid for free. If you get a card that shows what the state of fluid is like and something were to happen you would at least have that to show the fluid was still ok?
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It’s one of the easiest things you can do.
I have a vacuum bleeder that I put a larger jar on. I just suck the old fluid out of the reservoir and fill with new stuff then go to the right rear wheel and draw fluid through until the clean stuff shows up and repeat on the other 3, remembering to keep the reservoir filled. Works like a charm and never had any air get in. I generally do mine based on time rather than mileage. 3 years for the truck that lives outside and 4 for the car that lives in the garage.
The Motive Bleeder is great for DIY bleeds - but if you have something with brake-by-wire like a Toyota/Ford hybrid or the new Chevy Silverado/GMC Sierra(and their Yukon/Tahoe/Suburban/Escalade siblings), you’ll need a scan tool with OE-level capability(or Techstream/IDS/GDS) to run through the bleed procedure for the brake actuator and wheel circuits.
Some cars might need an pro-level scan tool to cycle the ABS modulator as well. Older GM/Ford/Chrysler trucks using Kelsey-Hayes ABS and GM products using Delco ABS need it. The way I did it without a scan tool on a GMT400 Tahoe once was bleed the brakes with a Motive bleeder, take the truck to a empty parking lot and wail on the brakes to cycle the ABS. Then I did another bleed after a very careful drive back.
Some cars might need an pro-level scan tool to cycle the ABS modulator as well. Older GM/Ford/Chrysler trucks using Kelsey-Hayes ABS and GM products using Delco ABS need it. The way I did it without a scan tool on a GMT400 Tahoe once was bleed the brakes with a Motive bleeder, take the truck to a empty parking lot and wail on the brakes to cycle the ABS. Then I did another bleed after a very careful drive back.
The only PIA part is removing the reservoir to clean it internally. Wouldn't be needed on something as new as the OP's car.
I always get a better pedal.
And I do brake fluid flushes at 30K or every brake pad change, whichever is first.
You stated warranty but is the vehicle that new still? I mean brakes aren't part of the often touted powertrain warranty so you may no longer have the brake warranty, unless you were driving a lot of highway miles to rack up so many in a shorter period of time and in that case, it may not be due for a brake fluid change yet.
Otherwise if it is 3+ years old, I'd DIY, or in your case have a shop do it, primarily because it is listed as a maintenance item, and not a very expensive one, shopping around you can probably find a shop to do it for $100.
Otherwise if it is 3+ years old, I'd DIY, or in your case have a shop do it, primarily because it is listed as a maintenance item, and not a very expensive one, shopping around you can probably find a shop to do it for $100.
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