Brake caliper sliding part.

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Relubed the pins December 2017 (was locked before). Checked it a week ago and the caliper moved, but took considerable effort. My question is how easy should it be to make the moving part of the caliper slide back and forth? I know a bunch of youtube videos show it moving easily, but that's right after it's relubed. I am wondering if it's supposed to be just as easy to move a year later, etc.

When I unstuck everything in December 2017, I removed a bunch of built of rust, cleaned everything good (or so I thought) and reused everything. I wonder if I should have replaced the sliding pins and bolts, but that did come out great after being wire wheeled.
 
Yes, Brake Caliper guide pins should move rather easily when cleaned and lubed.
What kind of car? Mileage?
At pad replacement time, I thoroughly clean and lube the pins and bushing as part of that service.
I use "Sil Glyde" on my pins so the rubber doesn't swell and cause any unnecessary resistance.
Is the little rubber boot intact and in good condition? The Rust is suspect.
 
Originally Posted by incognito_2u
Yes, Brake Caliper guide pins should move rather easily when cleaned and lubed.
What kind of car? Mileage?
Is the little rubber boot intact and in good condition? The Rust is suspect.


1995 Ford Escort with 255K miles. Original calipers, rotors, and brake slide pins. Rubber boots were completely intact.
 
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Did you clean the holes where the sliding pins fit ?


Yes,

Possibly I didn't clean stuff good enough. Possibly I should have replaced some of the stuff that was rusted that I cleaned, lubed, and reinstalled, since once it's rusted it tends to come back quickly. At least that is my best guess. That and waiting until the car is like 23 years old before lubing the pins fore the first time.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by zzyzzx
Relubed the pins December 2017 (was locked before). Checked it a week ago and the caliper moved, but took considerable effort. My question is how easy should it be to make the moving part of the caliper slide back and forth? I know a bunch of youtube videos show it moving easily, but that's right after it's relubed. I am wondering if it's supposed to be just as easy to move a year later, etc.

When I unstuck everything in December 2017, I removed a bunch of built of rust, cleaned everything good (or so I thought) and reused everything. I wonder if I should have replaced the sliding pins and bolts, but that did come out great after being wire wheeled.


How did you clean the rust? Was it on the pins? You should wipe the pins clean. If more is needed such as wire brushing. If they need to be wire brushed to remove the rust, then the plating is gone. Replace the pins.
 
Originally Posted by Donald
How did you clean the rust? Was it on the pins? You should wipe the pins clean. If more is needed such as wire brushing. If they need to be wire brushed to remove the rust, then the plating is gone. Replace the pins.


I wire wheeled the pins clean. I am already thinking that I should have replaced them.
 
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
I have seen Eric O. on you tube use a blue / purple lube . Maybe made by Permatex ? ( I personally have used white lithium grease . )


He never re-lubes the caliper slide pins. All he does is check to see if there's grease already there. He's a great mechanic, but sometimes he takes short cuts where short cuts shouldn't be taken.
 
Originally Posted by zzyzzx
Originally Posted by Donald
How did you clean the rust? Was it on the pins? You should wipe the pins clean. If more is needed such as wire brushing. If they need to be wire brushed to remove the rust, then the plating is gone. Replace the pins.


I wire wheeled the pins clean. I am already thinking that I should have replaced them.


Wipe, spray, wipe. if rusty replace.

If the brakes must go back together then wire brush and lube. But order new pins ASAP.
 
Here's some excellent advice (this time) based on my kid's Ford Escort experience decades ago (not sure if your '95 is the same).

One of the rubber boots/bushing might be one piece. What happens with that long bushing is that rust develops between the outside of the boot and caliper hole that it sits in. The rust expands and causes that long boot to squeeze onto the pin, seizing it.

You need to remove that long boot entirely and get that expanded rust out of there. Wire brushing only polishes it. A round file or coarse wood rasp breaks that rust out. Coat that caliper hole with water proof silicone grease before installing a new boot to eliminate future rust.

Pic of the problematic long, enclosed bushing:
[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


If I'm preaching to the choir, can I still pat myself on the back?
lol.gif
 
OK, so replace all the brake hardware, even the rubber boots. I was going to do the springs, pins that hold in the pads, and the bolts. But you are saying replace the rubber boots as well. Yes, the rubber boots had rust on those as well, but they cleaned up nicely.

As far as your comment about the rust expanding the metal sleeve part, I guess that could have happened. Didn't notice it before, but wasn't looking for it either.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by zzyzzx
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Did you clean the holes where the sliding pins fit ?


Yes,

Possibly I didn't clean stuff good enough. Possibly I should have replaced some of the stuff that was rusted that I cleaned, lubed, and reinstalled, since once it's rusted it tends to come back quickly. At least that is my best guess. That and waiting until the car is like 23 years old before lubing the pins fore the first time.



Check out , but he is using all new parts . But he is using the purple lube .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NAeWnDObO8

Do not think I have ever replaced a caliper . I have replaced 2 wheel cylinders and have honed and re-built several .
 
Yeah, replace guide pins and boots. I use permatex caliper lube (green stuff). Sounds like the boots (bushings) are letting moisture get in.
 
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