Brad Penn 10W/40; 1,260 miles; 2003 Lancer Evo

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Hi there, This is my first time having oil analysis. I don't drive the car that often since last oil change on June 2012 and I read some posts that I should change the oil anyways considering the cost of the oil vs.engine. Therefore, it only has 1,260 miles on it. Any feedback will be appreciated it. Thank you.
 

foot3ch

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Thanks dave! Should I worry about Sodium, Calcium, and Magnesium? The car is tuned slightly rich to be in a safe side. I did find fuel/oil mixture in the catch can. Is that normal? Thanks
 
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Those are additives. And I agree -- you need to leave the oil in longer. No need to throw money down the drain.
 
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Originally Posted By: foot3ch
The car is tuned slightly rich to be in a safe side. I did find fuel/oil mixture in the catch can. Is that normal?
Yes it's normal in small quantities.
 

foot3ch

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I chose BradPenn because of the high number in Zinc and Phosphorus. I take the car to a track or autocross occasionally. Is it really higher than usual for Brad Penn?
Originally Posted By: Garak
Why is the zinc so high? Is this normal for Brad Penn? That's a little higher level than what I'd like to see.
 
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Originally Posted By: Garak
Why is the zinc so high? Is this normal for Brad Penn? That's a little higher level than what I'd like to see.
Yes. This is Brad Penn's forte. But I agree ZDDP is higher than I would use in this application. But I doubt it will hurt anything but by the same token I doubt it is useful.
 
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Originally Posted By: foot3ch
I chose BradPenn because of the high number in Zinc and Phosphorus. I take the car to a track or autocross occasionally. Is it really higher than usual for Brad Penn?
Originally Posted By: Garak
Why is the zinc so high? Is this normal for Brad Penn? That's a little higher level than what I'd like to see.
Again you simply don't need a P level that high. It is also worth noting that this very heavy mineral oil (virgin HTHSV of 4.23cP) has sheared 30% in 1,260 miles. This is an old school oil for old engines and you'd be better off choosing a modern lubricant next time such as M1 0W-40. And even that is still likely too heavy for your car that's spec'd for 5W-30 IIRC.
 
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Originally Posted By: foot3ch
I chose BradPenn because of the high number in Zinc and Phosphorus. I take the car to a track or autocross occasionally. Is it really higher than usual for Brad Penn?
I don't know if it's higher than usual for Brad Penn, but it is higher than what I'd like to see, though, and certainly higher than what you'd need for your application. I'd try CATERHAM's advice, too. If you want to address the shear, give something like M1 0w-40 a try. If that doesn't address the shear, perhaps the appropriate 5w-30 should be tried. As we've seen here, some engines tend to shear down oils that are thicker, but when filled with something a bit lighter, tend to "leave them alone." Of course, there are expensive oils out there that are alternatives, but I don't tend to see a lot of benefit to them except for very niche applications. If you were going off the reservation with respect to specifications, I wouldn't go much further than Red Line, really.
 

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Well force performance actually recommends the turbo cars to use oil with high phosphorus and zinc. Brad Penn happens to be readily available in a local store and inexpensive ($6/qt) compare to amsoil and other high performance oils. As far as the M oil, I would have to use the their top grade oil (I forgot the name) in order to get that much zinc and phosphorus. Do you think the built engine may have something to do with the shear? It has 2.2L and boost to 26 on 91 and i think over 30 on E85.
 
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Don't get me wrong - I'm not saying there is anything wrong with elevated zinc and phosphorus levels. The levels of zinc I'm seeing, however, with this particular oil are just over the upper limits with which I'm comfortable for camshaft spalling. With respect to price, you're doing quite well with the Brad Penn, obviously. Many other similar options are substantially more expensive. For M1 top grade oils, there's really very little beyond M1 0w-40 for top grade. With respect to ZDDP content, look at it this way. M1 0w-40 has too much phosphorous if it were to be an SN/GF-5 grade and so certified. The Brad Penn you're using has nearly double the amount that the M1 0w-40 has. You might be right about the shear. Also, there was a tiny bit of fuel in the oil, which would contribute to shear, too.
 

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Garak - not at all. Thank you for your honest opinion. I just recently got married and wifey wants to have a baby soon. I was and am still in the dilemma whether I should keep the car or not so I decided to get oil analysis. It seems that the engine is healthy so I would keep the car smile
 
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Originally Posted By: foot3ch
Well force performance actually recommends the turbo cars to use oil with high phosphorus and zinc. Brad Penn happens to be readily available in a local store and inexpensive ($6/qt) compare to amsoil and other high performance oils. As far as the M oil, I would have to use the their top grade oil (I forgot the name) in order to get that much zinc and phosphorus. Do you think the built engine may have something to do with the shear? It has 2.2L and boost to 26 on 91 and i think over 30 on E85.
First I wouldn't use a mineral oil in a turbo application, only a 100% syn oil to keep the turbo bearing clean and minimize oil oxidation. Secondly, if you are racing the car you should install an oil pressure to determine your operational viscosity. For anything other than out and out road racing you likely don't need a 40wt oil; quite frankly even M1 0W-40 is heavier than necessary for street use but would be a major improvement over Brad Penn for many reasons including being lighter on start-up due to it's much higher viscosity index. M1 5W-30 which meets the HTO-06 turbo cleanliness spec' is likely all you need or a 50/50 blend with M1 0W-40 if you want something a bit heavier.
 

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I contacted Blackstone regarding the Engine type and they sent me a revised report today. NOTE: They also wrote incorrect engine type on my 1999 Civic SI. I'm still waiting for the revised report.
 

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Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: foot3ch
Well force performance actually recommends the turbo cars to use oil with high phosphorus and zinc. Brad Penn happens to be readily available in a local store and inexpensive ($6/qt) compare to amsoil and other high performance oils. As far as the M oil, I would have to use the their top grade oil (I forgot the name) in order to get that much zinc and phosphorus. Do you think the built engine may have something to do with the shear? It has 2.2L and boost to 26 on 91 and i think over 30 on E85.
First I wouldn't use a mineral oil in a turbo application, only a 100% syn oil to keep the turbo bearing clean and minimize oil oxidation. Secondly, if you are racing the car you should install an oil pressure to determine your operational viscosity. For anything other than out and out road racing you likely don't need a 40wt oil; quite frankly even M1 0W-40 is heavier than necessary for street use but would be a major improvement over Brad Penn for many reasons including being lighter on start-up due to it's much higher viscosity index. M1 5W-30 which meets the HTO-06 turbo cleanliness spec' is likely all you need or a 50/50 blend with M1 0W-40 if you want something a bit heavier.
Not sure if this is related to M1 oil. I did use M1 prior to BP and the FP Black Turbo that I had at the time had a broken shaft on the intake side. I contacted FP and they told me that they had been getting some calls from their customers who use M1 oil. They then released a list of oil that they approved to be used with their turbos.
 
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Question to revive this. I have a vintage car with this oil that I drive maybe 100 miles/yr. The car is in a pretty constant dry temperature garage all the time. How long could this oil stay in there before changing?
 
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