Bought my first firearm today

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: Nick R

I believe from what I read the stock recoil is 11lb. I ordered the 15lb because apparently due to the light weight of the frame, it has a bit more felt recoil than other 9mm mak pistols. I figured since I was already replacing the hammer spring, I might as well replace the recoil spring as well.

Be careful here (and this is why I asked). The recoil spring resists the movement of the slide as it travels rearward. If you use too heavy of a spring, your slide may not slide to the rear as far or as fast as it should. You can sometimes get ejection problems because the empty shells aren't getting kicked out of the port fast enough. You can get stovepipes or other ejection problems. Too, heavier recoil springs tend to INCREASE felt recoil, at least in my opinion. "Recoil" is highly subjective to be sure, but a heavier spring will slow the speed of the slide down some. This means that it takes a longer period of time for it to travel rearward and then return fully to battery...so it's moving for a longer period of time between shots. When I replaced the 18# spring in my CZ with a 13# spring, the gun really felt softer to shoot. Yes, the ammunition does kick the slide back faster, but it also returns to battery faster, and I'm back on target quicker. Again, "felt recoil" is very subjective...I wouldn't necessarily expect a heavier spring to make the gun feel more controllable, or softer to shoot, or whatever your metric is. It sometimes works the opposite of what you expect. To check how well-suited your recoil spring is for your ammunition, check your ejection patterns when you shoot. Ideally, you want to have all of your spent brass landing in a circle behind you and to your right, about 3-5 feet. If they just "hump" out of the gun and fall near your feet, then your recoil spring is probably too tight for the load you're shooting...they just "hump" out because the slide isn't sliding rearward fast enough and the brass doesn't hit the ejector with enough speed. On the other hand, if they fly rearward 10 feet, then your recoil spring is probably too light for the load you're shooting, and the slide's traveling back faster than intended and the ejector really kicks the brass out. Aim for a circle, no pun intended, about 3-5 feet over your right shoulder.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Nick, I amend my post above to say that because this pistol is a blowback design, it may operate a little differently than one with a Browning-type recoil design. I maintain that you want good ejection patterns a good distance over your right shoulder, but the way these pistols generate that subjective "felt recoil" may differ from the Browning-type pistols with which I'm more familiar. I encourage you to try both recoil springs (preferably back to back) in a "blind" comparison. Have your uncle at the range with you to install one of the springs for you and not disclose which one it was. Then switch it for the other and see if you like one or the other, and without any preconceptions about which you think you'll like better. Trying different stuff like that is great fun, and very educational as well.

 

[Nick R]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd

Nick, I amend my post above to say that because this pistol is a blowback design, it may operate a little differently than one with a Browning-type recoil design. I maintain that you want good ejection patterns a good distance over your right shoulder, but the way these pistols generate that subjective "felt recoil" may differ from the Browning-type pistols with which I'm more familiar. I encourage you to try both recoil springs (preferably back to back) in a "blind" comparison. Have your uncle at the range with you to install one of the springs for you and not disclose which one it was. Then switch it for the other and see if you like one or the other, and without any preconceptions about which you think you'll like better. Trying different stuff like that is great fun, and very educational as well.

I'll try it out. I bought the new recoil spring based on what I read online, with users saying because of the blowback design, the heavier recoil spring will help reduce recoil. I'll try both and see how I like them.

 

[Robenstein]

The 9mm Mak used to be very popular when the pistols hit the market. It is better than a 380 in performance. Slightly larger bullet with more energy. Since it is a blowback design, it may not cycle as well with the heavier spring. You will just have to try. I kept mine at factory settings. If you ever can...pick up a true makarov. Being all steel they are a very soft shooter in comparison. Some of the commercial Russian and Bulgarian Maks can still be had cheaply.

 

[Nick R]

Originally Posted By: Robenstein

The 9mm Mak used to be very popular when the pistols hit the market. It is better than a 380 in performance. Slightly larger bullet with more energy. Since it is a blowback design, it may not cycle as well with the heavier spring. You will just have to try. I kept mine at factory settings. If you ever can...pick up a true makarov. Being all steel they are a very soft shooter in comparison. Some of the commercial Russian and Bulgarian Maks can still be had cheaply.

I almost did get a Russian mak instead. I will probably get one eventually. It certainly seems the eastern-bloc countries know how to make a darn fine sidearm

 

[Robenstein]

The nice thing about the Ruskie maks is the commercial ones are sometimes available in 380 making ammo easier to find. And they have adjustable sights on them to make them importable under the 1968 Gun Control Act provisions.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: Nick R

It certainly seems the eastern-bloc countries know how to make a darn fine sidearm.

Absolutely. Check out the Czechs. I looked a long while at vintage CZ-75s, and ended up buying a brand new CZ P-09. Polymer version...essentially the current model SP-01 Phantom. The quality of the weapon is superb, especially at retail prices below those of Glock, Smith, Springfield, etc. CZs have a very low bore axis, minimizing felt recoil and letting you get a really nice high grip on the gun. But you got yourself a really cool piece of history there. I'd like a Mak myself. Older Euro firearms are cool, aren't they?

 

[SS1970chrysler]

If you're getting into Mak's, don't overlook the Polish P-83. It's a great shooter and much improved over the P-64. Either of those can be had at a good price.

 

[Robenstein]

Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler

If you're getting into Mak's, don't overlook the Polish P-83. It's a great shooter and much improved over the P-64. Either of those can be had at a good price.

Or the CZ82 or even CZ83 Commerical model(made in 9mm mak in small numbers)

 

[SS1970chrysler]

Originally Posted By: Robenstein

Originally Posted By: SS1970chrysler

If you're getting into Mak's, don't overlook the Polish P-83. It's a great shooter and much improved over the P-64. Either of those can be had at a good price.

Or the CZ82 or even CZ83 Commerical model(made in 9mm mak in small numbers)

^still wanting one of those...

 

[ethangsmith]

I have a PA-63 and it's a fine gun. I got the recoil and hammer spring calibration packs from Wolff Gunsprings and they are great. The gun will cycle fine with the heaviest recoil spring installed. I use that one and the middle (11 lb?) hammer spring. Works and functions wonderfully. Keep some oil on it- that steel slide can really wear down the aluminum frame quickly!

 

[2cool]

Nice gun! Take the time to learn how to do the manual of arms for the gun. One of the best ammo finders is Ammoseek, especially for less common calibers.