Just got a Red one for the wife. 2012 Corolla LE with the power package (sunroof and alloy wheels). Automatic. Just finished the deal 30 minutes ago. Will post pics tomorrow in the morning.
Bought a 2012 Corolla!!!
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Can you post pics of the interior (or just the dash area)?
I've never been in a newer (2010+) compact car. If I get the time I should test drive a bunch of compact vehicles. My perception of compact vehicles date back to the 90's. I really prefer trucks.
I've never been in a newer (2010+) compact car. If I get the time I should test drive a bunch of compact vehicles. My perception of compact vehicles date back to the 90's. I really prefer trucks.
Congratulations! You made a wise purchase; the Corolla is an outstanding vehicle. I love mine, especially when I checked my mileage yesterday while refueling ... 33 mpg in city/highway mix. Not bad for a '99 model.
Great choice! Congratulations on the purchase!
Originally Posted By: shadow7
Nice! You're set for at least 10 years.
More like 20 years the way prices at the pump are getting. Great car for the money.
Nice! You're set for at least 10 years.
More like 20 years the way prices at the pump are getting. Great car for the money.
JHZR2
Staff member
Too bad you got an automatic... An mt corolla has to be one of the cheapest to operate vehicles on the road.
What is your OC schedule and fluid choice?
What is your OC schedule and fluid choice?
The problem with those is that they don't go away. My family bought one new in 1991. It lasted until 213,000 miles and then it was the (original) clutch that went. Since the car lasted through four highschoolers the interior was so trashed that it wasn't worth fixing the clutch, otherwise it ran fine.
Understandably the current car isn't the same at all, but the formula is the same.
Understandably the current car isn't the same at all, but the formula is the same.
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I have enjoyed my '11 Corolla LE. I've taken an aggresive maintenance approach. Check out what I've learned/completed/recommend:
Lifetime ATF in a 2011 Corolla
Polish and Wax a New Car
Oil Filter Options
Check the last page of this thread for discurssion of a TSB for the fuel-cutout
Where is the oil filter on a 2012 Corolla
And here is a discussion through PM with a member asking a few questions:
Originally Posted By: Member
Really how difficult is it to change the oil filter on this car? I bought a oil filter wrench on amazon for it, I've read a lot of horror stories on the net about the oil ring on the plastic housing failing or rolling causing oil loss, etc. What are your tips, recommendations? I've changed the oil on all of my cars for years but this cannister set up has me a little puzzled. Any help would be great. Thanks. How hard is it to get off when it's still the factory fill? Do you torque it or just do it by hand?
Originally Posted By: My Response
It sounds more intimidating than it really is. After the first oil change, you'll see and feel a little embarassed for feeling so inadequate. I know I did.
One plus for you is having the filter wrench. If you have the right size, which I believe is the 65mm, not the 65/67mm, that will take alot of guess work out. I use the adjustable oil filter wrench, which comes short in diameter, and fill that void with a cut piece of serpentine belt. This gives me rather nice grip to turn the filter housing. With the first change, the filter housing was a little tighter than I liked but corrected that with the reinstallment.
I had no issues with the o-ring. I'm using OEM filters, which supply new o-rings. I remove the used o-ring from the filter housing and replace with a new. I push the new all the way to the "inside" of the threads, where there is a little seat for it. The box the OEM filter came in recommends rubbing a little oil on the o-ring. I feel confident in the o-ring construction.
I now sort of like the cannister filter. You get an idea of what your filter is filtering with each oil change.
I've changed the oil twice, at 1,500 and 5,000, Toyota changed it at 10,000 (Toyota Care) and so I've had PYB 5W20, PU 5W20 and Toyota 0W20. I find the Toyota 0W20 has a little more "rattle" or "piston slap" at start-up when compared to the 5W20. I'm at 13,500 now and plan to change at 15,000 with Mobil Clean 5,000, API SM that I picked up from the O'Rielly's and AutoZone sales. I'm running 5,000 OCI. I can't make myself go 10,000 such as what Toyota recommends with this 2011.
All in all, if you've changed oil before and are somewhat pliable to newer methods, I honestly think you'll be fine.
Originally Posted By: Member
Thanks for the information. The oil filter wrench I bought was off of amazon, it's all steel construction and made just for the toyota oil filter cannisters, it was a little spendy ($16) but I read about 100 reviews and pretty much everyone liked it better than anything you can get from the auto parts stores. So you do not use a torque wrench at all for the cannister? Everywhere I read people say they put oil on the o-ring after placing it onto the cannister before screwing it back on. Were there a lot of visible metals from break in during your early oil changes? I will probably stick with the OEM filter and synthetic. Thanks for the information. By the way I had an '87 B-2000, it was a tank, I mostly saw B-2200's around but mine was the 2.0.
Originally Posted By: Member
So you do not use a torque wrench at all for the cannister?
Nope, just a firm, hand tight.
Originally Posted By: Member
Everywhere I read people say they put oil on the o-ring after placing it onto the cannister before screwing it back on.
The o-ring does go on the cannister housing before replacing back on car. By the way, a Toyota parts desk technician volunteered the cost of the cannister housing one time in the middle of another conversation. It was ~$35. I assume they have instances of the housing cracking, but I don't see how unless you really put some torque on it. I don't tighten any more than I would a standard filter.
Originally Posted By: Member
Were there a lot of visible metals from break in during your early oil changes?
I didn't see any large pieces, but it looked glittery, if that makes sense. I'm really glad I changed early. It may not have hurt the engine for 10,000 miles but I'm not one to believe that the metal circulating in the oil wouldn't hurt anything.
Originally Posted By: Member
I will probably stick with the OEM filter and synthetic.
The OEM filter is $3.99 at a local dealer which is cheaper than any WIX or Purolator that I can get. I have a stash of Mobil Super, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Ultra and Quaker State Ultimate Durability that I will dwindle down, with the last Toyota Care service at 20,000. That's enough for the next 100,000 miles. I kind of went crazy with MIR and $9.99 O'Rielly deals. I feel this engine can handle 5,000 mile OCI just fine on conventional. After all, that's what Toyota recommended before the 0W20 fad.
Speaking of transmission exchanges, the following is a thread when I exchanged the ATF in the Corolla at 10,000 with OEM Toyota WS ATF. I recommend this early change as well after researching the Toyota WS fluid. I read where a Prius owner found the WS fluid to break-down below comfortable levels after only 30,000. Kind of bad for a "lifetime fluid." But here is the thread:
Lifetime ATF in Corrola
I hope this answers your questions. Let me know if you have any other questions. I don't mind sharing my experiences with this car. It really has served me well.
Lifetime ATF in a 2011 Corolla
Polish and Wax a New Car
Oil Filter Options
Check the last page of this thread for discurssion of a TSB for the fuel-cutout
Where is the oil filter on a 2012 Corolla
And here is a discussion through PM with a member asking a few questions:
Originally Posted By: Member
Really how difficult is it to change the oil filter on this car? I bought a oil filter wrench on amazon for it, I've read a lot of horror stories on the net about the oil ring on the plastic housing failing or rolling causing oil loss, etc. What are your tips, recommendations? I've changed the oil on all of my cars for years but this cannister set up has me a little puzzled. Any help would be great. Thanks. How hard is it to get off when it's still the factory fill? Do you torque it or just do it by hand?
Originally Posted By: My Response
It sounds more intimidating than it really is. After the first oil change, you'll see and feel a little embarassed for feeling so inadequate. I know I did.
One plus for you is having the filter wrench. If you have the right size, which I believe is the 65mm, not the 65/67mm, that will take alot of guess work out. I use the adjustable oil filter wrench, which comes short in diameter, and fill that void with a cut piece of serpentine belt. This gives me rather nice grip to turn the filter housing. With the first change, the filter housing was a little tighter than I liked but corrected that with the reinstallment.
I had no issues with the o-ring. I'm using OEM filters, which supply new o-rings. I remove the used o-ring from the filter housing and replace with a new. I push the new all the way to the "inside" of the threads, where there is a little seat for it. The box the OEM filter came in recommends rubbing a little oil on the o-ring. I feel confident in the o-ring construction.
I now sort of like the cannister filter. You get an idea of what your filter is filtering with each oil change.
I've changed the oil twice, at 1,500 and 5,000, Toyota changed it at 10,000 (Toyota Care) and so I've had PYB 5W20, PU 5W20 and Toyota 0W20. I find the Toyota 0W20 has a little more "rattle" or "piston slap" at start-up when compared to the 5W20. I'm at 13,500 now and plan to change at 15,000 with Mobil Clean 5,000, API SM that I picked up from the O'Rielly's and AutoZone sales. I'm running 5,000 OCI. I can't make myself go 10,000 such as what Toyota recommends with this 2011.
All in all, if you've changed oil before and are somewhat pliable to newer methods, I honestly think you'll be fine.
Originally Posted By: Member
Thanks for the information. The oil filter wrench I bought was off of amazon, it's all steel construction and made just for the toyota oil filter cannisters, it was a little spendy ($16) but I read about 100 reviews and pretty much everyone liked it better than anything you can get from the auto parts stores. So you do not use a torque wrench at all for the cannister? Everywhere I read people say they put oil on the o-ring after placing it onto the cannister before screwing it back on. Were there a lot of visible metals from break in during your early oil changes? I will probably stick with the OEM filter and synthetic. Thanks for the information. By the way I had an '87 B-2000, it was a tank, I mostly saw B-2200's around but mine was the 2.0.
Originally Posted By: Member
So you do not use a torque wrench at all for the cannister?
Nope, just a firm, hand tight.
Originally Posted By: Member
Everywhere I read people say they put oil on the o-ring after placing it onto the cannister before screwing it back on.
The o-ring does go on the cannister housing before replacing back on car. By the way, a Toyota parts desk technician volunteered the cost of the cannister housing one time in the middle of another conversation. It was ~$35. I assume they have instances of the housing cracking, but I don't see how unless you really put some torque on it. I don't tighten any more than I would a standard filter.
Originally Posted By: Member
Were there a lot of visible metals from break in during your early oil changes?
I didn't see any large pieces, but it looked glittery, if that makes sense. I'm really glad I changed early. It may not have hurt the engine for 10,000 miles but I'm not one to believe that the metal circulating in the oil wouldn't hurt anything.
Originally Posted By: Member
I will probably stick with the OEM filter and synthetic.
The OEM filter is $3.99 at a local dealer which is cheaper than any WIX or Purolator that I can get. I have a stash of Mobil Super, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Ultra and Quaker State Ultimate Durability that I will dwindle down, with the last Toyota Care service at 20,000. That's enough for the next 100,000 miles. I kind of went crazy with MIR and $9.99 O'Rielly deals. I feel this engine can handle 5,000 mile OCI just fine on conventional. After all, that's what Toyota recommended before the 0W20 fad.
Speaking of transmission exchanges, the following is a thread when I exchanged the ATF in the Corolla at 10,000 with OEM Toyota WS ATF. I recommend this early change as well after researching the Toyota WS fluid. I read where a Prius owner found the WS fluid to break-down below comfortable levels after only 30,000. Kind of bad for a "lifetime fluid." But here is the thread:
Lifetime ATF in Corrola
I hope this answers your questions. Let me know if you have any other questions. I don't mind sharing my experiences with this car. It really has served me well.
Great for you! Now you can spend your time on other things
Great car, ultra reliable, comfortable, practical and they hold value well too.
Great car, ultra reliable, comfortable, practical and they hold value well too.
Congrats on the purchase. I bought a 2012 Corolla (LE, auto, nautical blue) last month, it actually has decent pickup for an economy car. I have a little over 1,000 miles on mine I've been getting close to 29 MPG in mixed driving, I fully expect to get 37+ whenever I get to go on my first all highway trip. Only thing different about the car is the element oil filter, haven't tried changing it yet.
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As is customary, pictures as promised. Sorry for the delay, my wife has been driving me all over town in her new car haha. I think we hit every store in Texas today.
http://s1063.photobucket.com/albums/t515...12-00-02_94.jpg
http://s1063.photobucket.com/albums/t515...2-00-46_281.jpg
http://s1063.photobucket.com/albums/t515...12-00-02_94.jpg
http://s1063.photobucket.com/albums/t515...2-00-46_281.jpg
Thanks for all the well wishes! I hope those pictures post, I will post some interior pictures in a short bit, I have never posted pics before on Bitog.
I would have loved the MT, but my wife refuses to drive anything but an auto, so auto it is. Sticker was $21.5 on it, drove out at $17K, so the deal was awesome. Lots of phonecalls to the 4-5 dealers in town though, lots of games at other dealers. Place I bought from was recommended through my FIL, excellent sales staff.
As for OCI, Toyota recommends 10K with their syn, and it has free OCI's for the first 2 years. I will be doing every 5K with syn, now just need to figure out which one I will use.
The game plan is keep this for 5-7 years, and my wife and I road-trip quite a bit, so by that time it may have 100K-120K miles on it, so hopefully it is trouble-free like my parents 82 corolla.
I would have loved the MT, but my wife refuses to drive anything but an auto, so auto it is. Sticker was $21.5 on it, drove out at $17K, so the deal was awesome. Lots of phonecalls to the 4-5 dealers in town though, lots of games at other dealers. Place I bought from was recommended through my FIL, excellent sales staff.
As for OCI, Toyota recommends 10K with their syn, and it has free OCI's for the first 2 years. I will be doing every 5K with syn, now just need to figure out which one I will use.
The game plan is keep this for 5-7 years, and my wife and I road-trip quite a bit, so by that time it may have 100K-120K miles on it, so hopefully it is trouble-free like my parents 82 corolla.
Originally Posted By: bepperb
The problem with those is that they don't go away. My family bought one new in 1991. It lasted until 213,000 miles and then it was the (original) clutch that went. Since the car lasted through four highschoolers the interior was so trashed that it wasn't worth fixing the clutch, otherwise it ran fine.
Understandably the current car isn't the same at all, but the formula is the same.
An older guy who works for the county here recently had a bad ecperience with his 1993 Corolla at about 320,000 miles. It just up and wouldn't start one day. The original sparks plugs had worn to the point that the center electrodes wew recessed and on three of them the ground electrode had worn past the bend. A set of plugs and wires got it to start again. He's past 350,000 miles now with no complaints and no check engine light. Somehow the thing doesn't even have any rust holes. He must have gotten one of the good ones.
The problem with those is that they don't go away. My family bought one new in 1991. It lasted until 213,000 miles and then it was the (original) clutch that went. Since the car lasted through four highschoolers the interior was so trashed that it wasn't worth fixing the clutch, otherwise it ran fine.
Understandably the current car isn't the same at all, but the formula is the same.
An older guy who works for the county here recently had a bad ecperience with his 1993 Corolla at about 320,000 miles. It just up and wouldn't start one day. The original sparks plugs had worn to the point that the center electrodes wew recessed and on three of them the ground electrode had worn past the bend. A set of plugs and wires got it to start again. He's past 350,000 miles now with no complaints and no check engine light. Somehow the thing doesn't even have any rust holes. He must have gotten one of the good ones.
Interior pictures as promised. In the LE model, there is a variety of nice grey/silver trim pieces. Makes the center stack look upmarket.
http://s1063.photobucket.com/albums/t515/oberoir1/?action=view¤t=photo.jpg
http://s1063.photobucket.com/albums/t515/oberoir1/?action=view¤t=gsdhg.jpg
http://s1063.photobucket.com/albums/t515/oberoir1/?action=view¤t=photo.jpg
http://s1063.photobucket.com/albums/t515/oberoir1/?action=view¤t=gsdhg.jpg
Something about this last gen of Corolla I like. Do they still have the rough ride? My coworker has a 09 with 130k and parents a 10 with 40k they both have a rough ride not even the same tire package. The only complaint about them.
Eric- The ride is a bit stiffer than my Nissan versa, BUT it handles better on the highway than my friends old 07 corolla. Not sure if any structural/suspension changes were done to the new one, but its well planted at 70MPH on the highway.
I really like the look of the new Corolla. Nice color too! Congrats!
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