Bolts sheared off

Messages
66
Location
PA
I was taking the under engine cover off. I thought the bolts were turning but they just sheared off, very rusty. Any idea how I can get the remnants out of the frame. The picture of the frame is looking up at what's left of the two bolts. Thanks bolts sheared off whole bolt
 
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17,501
Location
Clovis, CA
You'll need a screw extractor, but the correct size extractor depends on the diameter of the bolt. What's the thread diameter of the bolt? Looks to be about 10mm or so.
 
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2,235
Location
Oswego, IL
You could try an EZ Out extractor, or drill them out and retap. If you drill, you'll need new screws of the correct size, but since you're buying new screws anyway.... shrug
 
Messages
17,501
Location
Clovis, CA
Originally Posted By: tinmanSC
You could try an EZ Out extractor
You mean the spiral type? Those are junk - they expand the bolt when turning left. The square extractors are way better.
 
Messages
17,501
Location
Clovis, CA
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
I'd leave it off or drill it out and tap in new threads
That's supposed to be the last resort. You try to extract the bolt without harming the threads first.
 
Messages
7,108
Location
MIchigan
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You'll need a screw extractor, but the correct size extractor depends on the diameter of the bolt. What's the thread diameter of the bolt? Looks to be about 10mm or so.
I can't see how an extractor is going to work if the bolt is spinning.
 
Messages
17,501
Location
Clovis, CA
Originally Posted By: Warstud
I can't see how an extractor is going to work if the bolt is spinning.
The bolt is spinning? Where'd you get that idea?
 
Messages
25,943
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Forget easy out on b0lts that small or that rusted. If you can drill a hole for the easy out then you can drill it to clean up the threads. First you need a good assortment of quality drill bits, a tap the size of the original and a hard center punch. With a fine line marker mark an X on the broken bolt. The center of the X is where you need to place the center punch and hit it with a hammer. Drill a small hole straight through the bolt using the mark made by the punch to center the bit. Once through you are almost home free. Keep drilling the next size up until you reach the outside diameter of the bolt without thread. At this point you can run the original size tap through with some oil on it, if it gets real tight like its jammed don't force it just drill once size larger and try again. The main thing to doing this easy job properly is center punching the bolt right in the middle and drill straight. Keep oiling the drill bit as its working, spray oil Kroil, liquid wrench works okay. Work slowly and carefully with precision, this is not hack work. When done properly you will just leave the original threads intact. The first few will be a PITA but gets easier with practice, i do this many times a month. I just did 6 exhaust pipe flange to manifold studs on an angle with an angle drill and did not use an oversize stud. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!
 
Messages
17,501
Location
Clovis, CA
Originally Posted By: Trav
Forget easy out on b0lts that small or that rusted.
Are you trying to bypass the censor by spelling bolts with a zero?!!? Say it ain't so. tired We'z be needin' a moderator in this here thread ASAP!! cry
 
Messages
9,513
Location
Canuck living in California
Trav is probably the closest one with his recommendation. If the bolts sheared off, that means they are rusted in pretty badly and the easy out will not be as easy as most think. One thing I would like to add is to be very careful when drilling out the bolt and when tapping, as they are very easy to break, but can be very hard to get out.
 
Messages
9,108
Location
Marshfield , MA
Quick and dirty would be to use self drilling TEK screws about an inch away from the sheared bolts. The right way is to do as Trav suggests. Thats what I do. I start with a 1/8 pilot hole and work up by 16ths. I have several 3/8 drills, so I chuck a bit in each one. definitely wear goggles.
 
Messages
36,461
Location
ME
I agree with the self-tapping screw idea. Get some big fender washers to put under, or get some scrap sheet metal to sandwich under the head of the TEK but on top of the plastic. Even the lid of a soup can diced into quarters would help. If you can get into the frame with a nut-- tape one to the end of an open clothes hanger-- you can hammer out the broken thing. Use a hammer and punch, or, if you're limited, a big phillips screw driver. laugh Its captive nut is most likely held in with cheap tin or maybe a half-rusted spot weld. Anyway, bang that through, fish a nut in, then run some allthread in from outside. Hang your plastic shield, stick another nut on the open end, then use a vise grips on the extended end of the thread to keep the whole thing from turning when you torque your middle nut.
 

Rolomoto

Thread starter
Messages
66
Location
PA
Originally Posted By: Trav
Keep drilling the next size up until you reach the outside diameter of the bolt without thread.
Is there any way to tell the outside diameter of the bolt without thread? These are 10mm bolts. Or do you just eyeball it? Someone suggested just leaving it off. This covers the drive and power steering belts. Would it be a good idea to leave it off?
 
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Messages
25,943
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Sure, just use a caliper in the threads and outside of the bolt inc threads and subtract the difference. I would replace it living in the salt belt. They wouldn't spend .10c they didn't have to to put it there if they thought it didn't need it. I am guessing its a 6mmx1.0 thread bolt 10mm head so a 5mm drill should clear everything out but the threads.
 
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