Body shop owner telling me this is rust popping up a year after he repaired the car.

My father in law has a 2007 F150. In 2010 he was rear ended and it had to have a bedside replaced. Fast forward to now and the new bedside is rotted yet the original is perfectly fine. Truck has 80k on it. Shoddy work.
 
Depends how much he paid. Doesn’t look like a proper repair but I doubt they charged as much as a proper repair would’ve been. I can imagine having to replace the whole quarter panel due to rust, but if it was that bad, the patches would just have been a band aid. Not a forever fix.
 
One body shop tells the OP to do it the correct way. OP says or costs too much and wants a cheap way of doing it. Hires the cheap body shop to do it and now complains. Anyone that knows anything about body work knows, it takes a lot of labor time to get a panel to look perfect. This is why replacing entire quarter panels is the preferred methods, spend more on material bit save a ton on labor.
 
You got what you paid for.

Looks like an $1,800 job to me.

Just a new bumper cover is $2,500 these days. And that's a lot more work done than a bumper cover.
 
My father in law has a 2007 F150. In 2010 he was rear ended and it had to have a bedside replaced. Fast forward to now and the new bedside is rotted yet the original is perfectly fine. Truck has 80k on it. Shoddy work.
The body shop probably used an aftermarket bedside. Nowadays they fit well but the quality can still be sketchy with the use of thin and/or low quality steel.
 
Rust is a caner to a steel automobile. Once pinhole rust starts, you are fighting stage 5 cancer. High iron content metals used to patch and wire feed welding are no match for salt water or any water for that matter. The ONLY way to fix it are new panels loaded with Fluid Film on the backside. Otherwise don't bother fixing it.
 
I bet if the OP popped the bubbles water would come out even though there is no obvious break in the paint. Even if he did a good job welding a patch in if you don't epoxy the weld beam and just bondo over the patch without epoxy primer first the bondo will absorb moisture from inside through even the smallest of weld pin holes.
 
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Yup. The last two post are correct. There is bad body and paint work on everything he touched but, it’s bubbling right where it was cut and welded. I’m willing to bet there is zero cavity wax or any type of corrosion protection inside that rocker.
 
Rust is a caner to a steel automobile. Once pinhole rust starts, you are fighting stage 5 cancer. High iron content metals used to patch and wire feed welding are no match for salt water or any water for that matter. The ONLY way to fix it are new panels loaded with Fluid Film on the backside. Otherwise don't bother fixing it.
I agree once rust started on my 1998 car (in 2009) it was like you said—cancer. Sanding it all away, priming, painting, just came back, over and over. Same experience with older cars, but the 1998 was purchased brand new. I thought back to the brochure where the entire unibody was dipped….prolly only delayed the inevitable
 
Yup. The last two post are correct. There is bad body and paint work on everything he touched but, it’s bubbling right where it was cut and welded. I’m willing to bet there is zero cavity wax or any type of corrosion protection inside that rocker.
Simply a poor repair job. I would bet the shop did not explain to the owner the short cuts they were taking to make the job cheaper. A cheap (poor-bad) repair job is what was done. Good shops know what to use under paint and over recent repairs. This looks like poor to bad prep work prior to paint. Wonder how this shop can stay in business. There is a shop near me that had a great rep for body work. Yet everyone knew that they could not paint worth anything. We stopped using them since all their work turned bad after the paint was exposed for a while in normal weather conditions. Even the bumpers they reconditioned started to peel off.
 
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