BMW N54 Twin Turbo

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Originally Posted By: cosynthetics
[snip]The old Dyson website had RLI stuff on it lending me to believe Terry is less than unbiased. [snip]


I don't understand this line of thinking. How does that make him biased? Or, should it be considered as helping your clients? If you found a technical solution to [insert any technical problem here] while working for your customer(s), & it was already in the open market, would you tell them or keep it secret? You wouldn't be very useful to your customer if you kept it secret. It really has nothing to do with bias. Have problem - found solution - keep trying to find better solution wherever that may be found.
 
I'm not sure how free I am to discuss what Terry has actually told me, but I feel I can also vouch for his integrity in his recommendations. I haven't heard anything from him that indicates an agenda.

I'm sure he has favorites (everyone does), and that he has a preference for a lube he helped formulate. By the same token, I'm also sure that his favorites and his formulation advice come from good expertise, and that his recommendations are primarily motivated by a desire to give good advice.

Does he cry wolf sometimes? Probably (although you can only tell in hindsight). He is a perfectionist, and all perfectionists end up overshooting here and there. I can't speak for everyone, but that's why I pay him. If I felt he was trying to moderate and soften his advice at every turn, I'd take my business elsewhere.
 
I believe Terry has said in the past that he likes RLI for it's unique ability to hold up well in DI engines that are seeing high levels of fuel and the bio based home grown esters.

Some specific engines are problematic or more demanding on oil, such as the RS4 DI V8, but seem to be a small minority as of now. With DI engines becoming increasingly more popular, I'd assume this is being taken into account by lube formulators.


JHZR2 makes a good point. All of the majors keep tabs on their competitors and have impressive resources to conduct extensive, thorough testing.
 
Originally Posted By: saaber1
Originally Posted By: RI_RS4
Here's the most recent chart of results on the RS4 for Fe


It would be nice to have some more UOAs for >20k mile non-RenLube users. I know the folks contributing to the database probably converted to RLI and kept updating their data (which is great) and that is why almost all data is RLI beyond 20k, but finding some more higher mileage non-RLI UOAs would help the database I think. I wonder if those UOAs exist?


saaber1,

I wish there were more high mileage non-RLI samples also. However, since I believe that Biosyn is significantly better and consistently shows better results, I will always convince owners to switch as soon as possible.

Slowly as people become concerned with valve deposits, a new group of owners is having oil analysis done, all of which have run Audi-approved oils exclusively. Usually those who do have Terry do an analysis end up convinced to switch to RLI.

In the plot the differences between oils is significant. The last two high mileage points for Audi oils were on the same engine:

30291 miles with 6900 miles on the oil
38040 miles with 6000 miles on the oil

Then the owner switched over to RLI. You see those samples at:

53500 miles with 10K miles on the oil
62500 miles with 9000 miles on the oil
 
Originally Posted By: buster
Have their been any tear downs or visual inspections of engine internals?


For intake valve deposits yes. Engines run on Audi-approved oils are a nasty mess, that takes 2 hours per cylinder to clean.

One owner who switched to Biosyn has performed several post oil change inspections by pulling the intake manifold. Here's his experience in his words:

Quote:
I’ll try to get the whole history as brief as possible. It’s lengthy, but hopefully informative. From the time the car was broken in, the cold starts were frequently rough and power delivery was erratic. The roughness should not be confused with a hunting or oscillating idle. It was caused by misfiring, as verified with Vagcom. It eventually got to the point when there would be 30-40 random misfires in the first 15 seconds. First oil change was at 4k by the dealer. By 8k miles, I had been in twice for “coil” issues to “correct” the CEL’s caused by the misfires. The coils were not the problem. The Service Mgr (not the SA, who was clueless) decided the fuel system should be checked. Four injectors failed the leak-down testing. Upon removing the intake to replace all 8 injectors at 8k miles, they discovered a disturbing amount of buildup on the intake valves. I saw the buildup, but did not take any photos. The dealer did a very good job of cleaning them and with the new injectors, the car ran much, much better. There have been no misfire issues since. I have hooked up Vagcom several times after the car has been sitting for 2-3 days and zero misfires are recorded – the engine fires up nicely, just as it should. The dealer used a fair amount of solvent when they cleaned the valves, so I changed oil at 8k, using the Castrol TXT synthetic available from the dealer. At 9k miles, I swapped in my ported intake. Low and behold, after only 1000 miles on a good 501/502 oil, the intake valve buildup was already at least 1/2 of what it was at 8k. I had figured that with good injectors that were no longer leaking fuel into the cylinders when the engine was off, there would less fuel dilution of the oil, less oil vapor in the crankcase air stream and much less buildup. Apparently not. So I cleaned the valves (major PITA), and decided to start using the RLI 5W-30 oil and fuel conditioner. At this point the car was running very strong. At 11.5k miles, I swapped in my version 2 ported manifold. After 2500 miles on the RLI oil, there was some buildup on the valves, but it was minimal. 500 miles later, I swapped manifolds again and of course the valve condition hadn’t changed much. The buildup rate is definitely slower with the RLI oil. So what have I learned? 1) The high performance nature of the RS4 engine means it volatizes a lot of oil, plain and simple 2) Generally speaking with FSI engines, rough cold starts and misfires are probably injector related – a bad coil would misfire all the time and minor valve buildup apparently doesn’t cause misfires 3) The injector problems are isolated and may be due to a manufacturing tolerance issue 4) I’ve used Tier 1 Shell fuel exclusively, it may keep the fuel system clean, but it does absolutely nothing for intake valve deposits on a FSI engine 4) A good fuel conditioner will help with maintaining clean injectors and minimizing combustion chamber deposits, but with a FSI engine, its affect on the intake valves is minimal 5) Oil chemistry can make a difference with the rate of buildup
 
Buster,

All DI engines appear to have these issues. That would include the following that I am aware of:

Audi FSI 4-cyl, 6-cyl, 8-cyl, 10-cyl
VW FSI 4-cyl
Mitsubishi GDI engines in Europe
BMW N54
Mazda
 
Originally Posted By: RI_RS4

Mitsubishi GDI engines in Europe


Interesting... I was under the impression that it was only an issue here, where we trade off fuel utilization, CO2 and wasted hydrocarbons for marginally reduced NOx.
 
Wow this thread came back to life in a hurry. So out of curiosity, has the intake valve deposits issue been observed in the N54 engine when running on BMW approved oils? My engine turned 8K miles today and seems to be running very strong and smooth, having run its first 1700 miles on factory fill, the next 6K on GC, and now 300 miles on the BMW 5w30 dealer-supplied oil.

I can very easily understand the issue and why it occurs in DI engines, and it sounds like the only ways to minimize it are:
1) exceptionally good oil separator.
2) not circulating crancase vapors into the intake stream.
3) using some magic oil chemistry.

I'm not likely going to think about 1 or 2 as they would probably cause the car to fail local emissions inspections.
 
Has anybody tried RTS 5W-40 in these motors? I just purchased an '07 335i and after reading through BITOG, I wish I had done a little more research beforehand! It's a 12/06 production Step w/ the sports package, but no oil cooler. I wish I had known about this sooner, as I would've lobbied for the dealer to put one in to make the deal.

On the drive home, I was very surprised at the high oil temps, around 240-250 degrees! Does anybody know how much cooler the oil generally runs with the factory oil cooler? You can just feel the heat radiated by these motors with the windowns down or standing outside while the car's running.

I just kept thinking 15K OCIs would be madness on this baby. I have a bunch of RTS in the garage and was thinking of using it halfway between the free 15K mile oil changes.

Needless to say, reading reports about oil breaking down in 1K miles, fuel dilution, etc etc has got my eyeballs spinning! The car is amazing to drive, but I'm already starting to worry about what I've gotten myself into...
 
Originally Posted By: esteve
but I'm already starting to worry about what I've gotten myself into...

Definitely look into an extended OEM warranty if you're planning to keep it for a while.
 
SAE 5W-40, API SH or higher are listed as approved in my 535i manual. You could certainly try it and then do a UOA on it.

I ran a fill of German Castrol (0W-30) for 6000 miles and a UOA showed no significant fuel dilution. I do agree that a 15K OCI on the N54 is madness. But if anyone plans to do long OCI's, a BMW approved oil certified as LL-01 & ACEA A3 is probably safer - at least with respect to maintaining warranty coverage.
 
Originally Posted By: esteve
On the drive home, I was very surprised at the high oil temps, around 240-250 degrees! Does anybody know how much cooler the oil generally runs with the factory oil cooler? You can just feel the heat radiated by these motors with the windowns down or standing outside while the car's running.

In the summer during normal driving the oil temp. in my 135i (w/ oil cooler) usually settles at 230-240 degrees. I have seen 245-250F but that was during a traffic jam in high ambient temps. Low airflow in traffic jams doesn't allow the oil cooler to help much.

Rotella-T 5W-40 is probably better to use in this engine than many other oils that do not meet BMW LL-01. I'm sticking with oil change intervals less than 4K since I'm using up a stash of Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Truck and I'm afraid that longer OCIs would lead to engine and PCV deposits.
 
I'd also look into the dinan or BMW performance oil cooler kit. Won't help when stuck in traffic, but it will help the rest of the time.
 
Thanks for all the input guys.

My car is certified pre-owned so I do feel somewhat at ease. I called my salesman today and he's going to check into the oil cooler issue for me. My understanding from what I've gathered so far is since I have the sport package, it should be included.

The Dinan cooler kit looks top-notch and the diverter duct is slick, but $2.4K for one is outrageous.
 
On some cars, the "sport package" was necessary to have one vs. not. The OE one still may not be sufficient.
 
Originally Posted By: jesbo
SAE 5W-40, API SH or higher are listed as approved in my 535i manual. You could certainly try it and then do a UOA on it.

I ran a fill of German Castrol (0W-30) for 6000 miles and a UOA showed no significant fuel dilution. I do agree that a 15K OCI on the N54 is madness. But if anyone plans to do long OCI's, a BMW approved oil certified as LL-01 & ACEA A3 is probably safer - at least with respect to maintaining warranty coverage.


I'm sure the Castrol 0w-30 is an excellent choise. There are many oils that work in these engines, including the Audi. No need for the over-priced RLI.
 
Originally Posted By: esteve
Has anybody tried RTS 5W-40 in these motors? I just purchased an '07 335i and after reading through BITOG, I wish I had done a little more research beforehand! It's a 12/06 production Step w/ the sports package, but no oil cooler. I wish I had known about this sooner, as I would've lobbied for the dealer to put one in to make the deal.

On the drive home, I was very surprised at the high oil temps, around 240-250 degrees! Does anybody know how much cooler the oil generally runs with the factory oil cooler? You can just feel the heat radiated by these motors with the windowns down or standing outside while the car's running.

I just kept thinking 15K OCIs would be madness on this baby. I have a bunch of RTS in the garage and was thinking of using it halfway between the free 15K mile oil changes.

Needless to say, reading reports about oil breaking down in 1K miles, fuel dilution, etc etc has got my eyeballs spinning! The car is amazing to drive, but I'm already starting to worry about what I've gotten myself into...


Definitely look into adding the cooler. You can try RTS but run some UOA to make sure it is up to the task. Personally, I'd stick with a good Synthetic.
 
Originally Posted By: cosynthetics

Definitely look into adding the cooler. You can try RTS but run some UOA to make sure it is up to the task. Personally, I'd stick with a good Synthetic.


And with respect to "Good Synthetic", I'm trying to stick with synthetics that are known to be Group IV base as opposed to Group III or blends as an added safety measure. Both GC and Mobil-1 0W-40 are Group IV as far as I can tell.

The N54 runs hot, and the combination of normal engine heat plus the twin turbos can probably cook mineral based oils during the summer.
 
Sorry to resurrect this mummy post, but, I just wanted to chime in with my experience with this engine. I have a petrol engine '07 335I, and really the best oil that I've used so far in it, is, PAO based Total/Elf ineo mc3 5W30. The only other oils I will use with this engine are: Total quartz 9000 0W30 (Winter), and Total quartz razcing 10W 50 (racing/summer).
 
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