BMW N52 Oil for Track (280k miles)

[russdawg1]

Hi guys, been reading a while but couldn’t find a thread that hit the nail right on the head.

In short I’d like a confirmation or recommendation on oil. Here’s all the relevant information, if I missed something please do ask:
Bmw N52 (sensitive valvetronic)
280k miles
Track temps 270°F (Looking into an oil cooler retrofit, as I only have a heat exchanger, but coolant temps are under 200°F)
North CA Weather (nothing below 20°F in the morning)
70% Track/30% secondary car usage
Oil Changes 5k miles or less (depending on concentration of track days per month)
Have cats atm, will be removing later this year.

While I have cats…?
Mobil 1 FS 0w-40?
Pennzoil PU
Redline HP… Euro?

When I don’t have cats…?
Redline Race 40WT
Mobil1 Race 0w-30

Others?

Tips on keeping this car alive and oil in good shape?

I rarely ever start it unless I plan to bring it fully up to temp as I’m aware that is a good practice. I am also planning to do oil analysis to keep on top of the engine. I also have an oil pressure gauge kit waiting to go on on the next oil change.

You guys are the best. Thank you!

Here’s a photo of the car also

 

[riggaz]

Hi guys, been reading a while but couldn’t find a thread that hit the nail right on the head.

In short I’d like a confirmation or recommendation on oil. Here’s all the relevant information, if I missed something please do ask:
Bmw N52 (sensitive valvetronic)
280k miles
Track temps 270°F (Looking into an oil cooler retrofit, as I only have a heat exchanger, but coolant temps are under 200°F)
North CA Weather (nothing below 20°F in the morning)
70% Track/30% secondary car usage
Oil Changes 5k miles or less (depending on concentration of track days per month)
Have cats atm, will be removing later this year.

While I have cats…?
Mobil 1 FS 0w-40?
Pennzoil PU
Redline HP… Euro?

When I don’t have cats…?
Redline Race 40WT
Mobil1 Race 0w-30

Others?

Tips on keeping this car alive and oil in good shape?

I rarely ever start it unless I plan to bring it fully up to temp as I’m aware that is a good practice. I am also planning to do oil analysis to keep on top of the engine. I also have an oil pressure gauge kit waiting to go on on the next oil change.

You guys are the best. Thank you!

Here’s a photo of the car also

View attachment 90808

What has the car been running on its voyages as a starship?

What's the full engine code bud and what year is it?

What's your oil consumption like?

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Hi guys, been reading a while but couldn’t find a thread that hit the nail right on the head.

In short I’d like a confirmation or recommendation on oil. Here’s all the relevant information, if I missed something please do ask:
Bmw N52 (sensitive valvetronic)
280k miles
Track temps 270°F (Looking into an oil cooler retrofit, as I only have a heat exchanger, but coolant temps are under 200°F)
North CA Weather (nothing below 20°F in the morning)
70% Track/30% secondary car usage
Oil Changes 5k miles or less (depending on concentration of track days per month)
Have cats atm, will be removing later this year.

While I have cats…?
Mobil 1 FS 0w-40?
Pennzoil PU
Redline HP… Euro?

When I don’t have cats…?
Redline Race 40WT
Mobil1 Race 0w-30

Others?

Tips on keeping this car alive and oil in good shape?

I rarely ever start it unless I plan to bring it fully up to temp as I’m aware that is a good practice. I am also planning to do oil analysis to keep on top of the engine. I also have an oil pressure gauge kit waiting to go on on the next oil change.

You guys are the best. Thank you!

Here’s a photo of the car also

View attachment 90808

WHAT?? A BMW with 280k miles??? Must be fake news!!!.. lol..


@edyvw does the same in Colorado. I suspect he's going to recommend you prioritize an oil cooler over everything else and then you can run whatever you want.

Personally I don't think there's much of a difference between M1 0w40, PU 5w40 euro. You could throw in Castrol 0w40, and Motul.

 

[edyvw]

Hi guys, been reading a while but couldn’t find a thread that hit the nail right on the head.

In short I’d like a confirmation or recommendation on oil. Here’s all the relevant information, if I missed something please do ask:
Bmw N52 (sensitive valvetronic)
280k miles
Track temps 270°F (Looking into an oil cooler retrofit, as I only have a heat exchanger, but coolant temps are under 200°F)
North CA Weather (nothing below 20°F in the morning)
70% Track/30% secondary car usage
Oil Changes 5k miles or less (depending on concentration of track days per month)
Have cats atm, will be removing later this year.

While I have cats…?
Mobil 1 FS 0w-40?
Pennzoil PU
Redline HP… Euro?

When I don’t have cats…?
Redline Race 40WT
Mobil1 Race 0w-30

Others?

Tips on keeping this car alive and oil in good shape?

I rarely ever start it unless I plan to bring it fully up to temp as I’m aware that is a good practice. I am also planning to do oil analysis to keep on top of the engine. I also have an oil pressure gauge kit waiting to go on on the next oil change.

You guys are the best. Thank you!

Here’s a photo of the car also

View attachment 90808

Hey welcome,

So I track my 328 and it is my primary daily driver.
You must go oil cooler. There is no any way around it. You could go for sake of saving money and time first improved CSF coolant radiator, since you have heat exchanger, but IMO, it might not work or improvement might not be sufficient.
Since you already have heat exchanger, you have OFH that is ready for oil thermostat. You could get used thermostat from N54/55. I would get from F30 since they are younger. DO NOT get from S55 as it opens at 116c instead of 110c.
Get used oil cooler lines and try to get new cooler from E90 335 (I managed to find brand new on ebay for $200) but most people just get used. You have to get different air duct around fog light to take air to brakes and cooler (it attaches to cooler). You need bracket that attaches to wheel well plastic (also unique to E90 335 with oil cooler). That is best solution, and you will be able to stay on track 24hrs in case you decide to go to Le Mans
Take into consideration that while at 270f DME won't trigger full limp mode, your timing is already dialed back. WIth oil cooler at that lower altitude, you are probably looking temperatures at 250f. You could go used thermostat housing and FTP thermostat (you need literally 10 minutes, if that, to take out BMW thermostat and spring and replace it with FTP) and spring which opens at 90c instead of 110c. I just use regular as I use my car as DD all the time and drive to ski, so need higher temperature for regular use. DO NOT forget to run 10% coolant concentrate and 90% distilled water on track.

Oil?
I ran Mobil1 0W40 before oil cooler. I reached 293f temperatures (full limp mode) and ran so hot that small leak on OFHG resealed itself for next two months No oil consumption nothing.
Castrol 0W40 same thing. Actually I have UOA of Castrol 0W40 with 5k OCI and track time. I actually did one session 47 laps in one attempt 5,000ft altitude (huge cooling issues at this altitude) and 102f ambient temperature. It is the worst possible conditions to cool off engine, yet it did not have a hiccup. My advice is stick to M1 0W40 or Castrol 0W40. No need to go anything else. I do have some 5W40 300V on shelf I will use this year and I will do UOA just to see if any difference, but this Castrol UOA is as good as it gets even if I did not do track time. I will though try HPL later to see how it stacks, and if you want something different, you should check HPL too. Left column is Castrol 0W30 without track time. WInter use:

 

[edyvw]

As for tips, IMO N52 is best BMW engine since M54.
Absolutely critical is serpentine belt. Pay attention on leaks from OFHG as if it goes on belt or tensioner ir will snap, and since harmonic balancer prevents belt from falling off, it will get sucked into the engine through front crank seal. Game over!
Regular replacement of belt will prevent it. But, since you track it like I do, get this:

BMW N54, N52, N55 Crank Seal Protection Plate 335i, 135i, 535i, Z4

Picture this: your engine, a finely tuned machine, humming along smoothly until disaster strikes. That's where the Crank Seal Guard from MaLo Industries steps in. Crafted with precision, this shield is like armor for your engine's vulnerable crank seal, tucked away behind the harmonic balancer...

www.maloindustries.com

Also, absolutely, go 3 stage intake conversion. You can find on ebay 3 stage intakes for $150-300. Bimmerlabs tune is free for download. 3 stage tune, headers, euro intake might give you some 290hp on crank. WIthout headers 270hp on crank according to Bimmerlabs as tune is copy of European version.

If you are interested into more complex projects, but very doable, you could go N54 modified intake, MILVs, headers, euro intake. That is pushing you above 300hp or some 260-270WHP. With different diff. (if yours is RWD) you are well in 0-60 territory of E46 M3 if you have stick shift.

Look what this guy did:

Building the E92 328csl

Building the E92 328csl

www.e90post.com

 

[edyvw]

Looking more carefully, you have E60 not E90.
Is that 530 or 528? If 530 you just need bimmerlabs tune not intake.
Also, cooler wise, you need obviously E60 specific oil cooling hoses and not sure is oil cooler exactly same as E90, but I would go oil cooler from E60 535 if available.

 

[BMW Dom]

Edy, what is your opinion on Redline oil for racing or daily driving?

 

[russdawg1]

Hey welcome,

So I track my 328 and it is my primary daily driver.
You must go oil cooler. There is no any way around it. You could go for sake of saving money and time first improved CSF coolant radiator, since you have heat exchanger, but IMO, it might not work or improvement might not be sufficient.
Since you already have heat exchanger, you have OFH that is ready for oil thermostat. You could get used thermostat from N54/55. I would get from F30 since they are younger. DO NOT get from S55 as it opens at 116c instead of 110c.
Get used oil cooler lines and try to get new cooler from E90 335 (I managed to find brand new on ebay for $200) but most people just get used. You have to get different air duct around fog light to take air to brakes and cooler (it attaches to cooler). You need bracket that attaches to wheel well plastic (also unique to E90 335 with oil cooler). That is best solution, and you will be able to stay on track 24hrs in case you decide to go to Le Mans
Take into consideration that while at 270f DME won't trigger full limp mode, your timing is already dialed back. WIth oil cooler at that lower altitude, you are probably looking temperatures at 250f. You could go used thermostat housing and FTP thermostat (you need literally 10 minutes, if that, to take out BMW thermostat and spring and replace it with FTP) and spring which opens at 90c instead of 110c. I just use regular as I use my car as DD all the time and drive to ski, so need higher temperature for regular use. DO NOT forget to run 10% coolant concentrate and 90% distilled water on track.

View attachment 90864

View attachment 90865

Oil?
I ran Mobil1 0W40 before oil cooler. I reached 293f temperatures (full limp mode) and ran so hot that small leak on OFHG resealed itself for next two months No oil consumption nothing.
Castrol 0W40 same thing. Actually I have UOA of Castrol 0W40 with 5k OCI and track time. I actually did one session 47 laps in one attempt 5,000ft altitude (huge cooling issues at this altitude) and 102f ambient temperature. It is the worst possible conditions to cool off engine, yet it did not have a hiccup. My advice is stick to M1 0W40 or Castrol 0W40. No need to go anything else. I do have some 5W40 300V on shelf I will use this year and I will do UOA just to see if any difference, but this Castrol UOA is as good as it gets even if I did not do track time. I will though try HPL later to see how it stacks, and if you want something different, you should check HPL too. Left column is Castrol 0W30 without track time. WInter use:

View attachment 90862

As for tips, IMO N52 is best BMW engine since M54.
Absolutely critical is serpentine belt. Pay attention on leaks from OFHG as if it goes on belt or tensioner ir will snap, and since harmonic balancer prevents belt from falling off, it will get sucked into the engine through front crank seal. Game over!
Regular replacement of belt will prevent it. But, since you track it like I do, get this:

BMW N54, N52, N55 Crank Seal Protection Plate 335i, 135i, 535i, Z4

Picture this: your engine, a finely tuned machine, humming along smoothly until disaster strikes. That's where the Crank Seal Guard from MaLo Industries steps in. Crafted with precision, this shield is like armor for your engine's vulnerable crank seal, tucked away behind the harmonic balancer...

www.maloindustries.com

Also, absolutely, go 3 stage intake conversion. You can find on ebay 3 stage intakes for $150-300. Bimmerlabs tune is free for download. 3 stage tune, headers, euro intake might give you some 290hp on crank. WIthout headers 270hp on crank according to Bimmerlabs as tune is copy of European version.

If you are interested into more complex projects, but very doable, you could go N54 modified intake, MILVs, headers, euro intake. That is pushing you above 300hp or some 260-270WHP. With different diff. (if yours is RWD) you are well in 0-60 territory of E46 M3 if you have stick shift.

Look what this guy did:

Building the E92 328csl

Building the E92 328csl

www.e90post.com

Looking more carefully, you have E60 not E90.
Is that 530 or 528? If 530 you just need bimmerlabs tune not intake.
Also, cooler wise, you need obviously E60 specific oil cooling hoses and not sure is oil cooler exactly same as E90, but I would go oil cooler from E60 535 if available.

Bingo! Its an E60 530i so already have the 3 stage intake. Headers are definitely on the list, not sure if I'll spring for the other stuff as I'm saving money to eventually move off the platform and into racing my C6 Thought I would try and hone my skills on something that is a bit more unique and would take actual skill to drive fast Is the Bimmerlabs tune different from the stock N52B30i tune? I assume the headers tune is different. No manual here. ZF6 w/ XHP which has been quite a joy.
I just swapped my belt out for a shorter one that skips the AC as it was making funky noises. About 20k ago. Will definitely take a look at the front seal protector as that is a terrible design if it allows the belt to get sucked into it
290 deg temps is impressive! You must have been absolutely flying on the track. Glad to hear good words about the 0W-40. I told my bud to use it before it actually made it into my own engine. It's sitting on the shelf for the next oil change. I've been using normal Mobil1 5w-30, the same stuff my C6 gets put in, lol
Was looking at the 535i cooler. Wasn't sure if it would be too much cooling as it already takes about 15 minutes of driving to get it up to operating temps. But if its suggested I'll continue looking into it. I see some cheap ones on ebay. I also think I've made a mistake as I messed up the terminology for the heat exchanger. Is the heat exchanger the brick looking thing next to the oil filter housing? Or is that something else?

 

[russdawg1]

What has the car been running on its voyages as a starship?

What's the full engine code bud and what year is it?

What's your oil consumption like?

Whatever the indy shop by us has been putting in. I never asked. Looks like its been 5w-40 something. Ever since I started driving it (within 15k miles or so) I just put in regular Mobil1 5w30.

Engine is N52B30 and 2007 530i>

Consumption varies to be completely honest. I haven't really been paying attention to it as it wasn't the car I was driving until recently. I would say normal bmw consumption with about +/-1 quart in between changes?

 

[BMW Dom]

I've been using normal Mobil1 5w-30, the same stuff my C6 gets put in, lol

 

[edyvw]

Bingo! Its an E60 530i so already have the 3 stage intake. Headers are definitely on the list, not sure if I'll spring for the other stuff as I'm saving money to eventually move off the platform and into racing my C6 Thought I would try and hone my skills on something that is a bit more unique and would take actual skill to drive fast Is the Bimmerlabs tune different from the stock N52B30i tune? I assume the headers tune is different. No manual here. ZF6 w/ XHP which has been quite a joy.
I just swapped my belt out for a shorter one that skips the AC as it was making funky noises. About 20k ago. Will definitely take a look at the front seal protector as that is a terrible design if it allows the belt to get sucked into it
290 deg temps is impressive! You must have been absolutely flying on the track. Glad to hear good words about the 0W-40. I told my bud to use it before it actually made it into my own engine. It's sitting on the shelf for the next oil change. I've been using normal Mobil1 5w-30, the same stuff my C6 gets put in, lol
Was looking at the 535i cooler. Wasn't sure if it would be too much cooling as it already takes about 15 minutes of driving to get it up to operating temps. But if its suggested I'll continue looking into it. I see some cheap ones on ebay. I also think I've made a mistake as I messed up the terminology for the heat exchanger. Is the heat exchanger the brick looking thing next to the oil filter housing? Or is that something else?

So, this makes me think what is actually source of excessive heat? Engine or transmission? If you have heat exchanger (a brick) it is usually sufficient for N52 at lower altitude. What drives temperature is transmission. I think you actually might get away with upgraded CSF cooling radiator!
Oil cooler is what I have, a radiator type. It is best option by far. Don’t go cheap.
You won’t need more time to reach operating temperature. Thermostat is there for that. Mine doesn’t take any longer and I drive in temperatures as low as -30.
Bimmerlabs should be just a bit better. But not sure is it worth the time. I think yours is already bit stronger than 330 tune.
As for my oil temperatures, not sure it is flying, but definitely compliments of altitude! Altitude is the worst when it comes to cooling.

 

[russdawg1]

Sorry

So, this makes me think what is actually source of excessive heat? Engine or transmission? If you have heat exchanger (a brick) it is usually sufficient for N52 at lower altitude. What drives temperature is transmission. I think you actually might get away with upgraded CSF cooling radiator!
Oil cooler is what I have, a radiator type. It is best option by far. Don’t go cheap.
You won’t need more time to reach operating temperature. Thermostat is there for that. Mine doesn’t take any longer and I drive in temperatures as low as -30.
Bimmerlabs should be just a bit better. But not sure is it worth the time. I think yours is already bit stronger than 330 tune.
As for my oil temperatures, not sure it is flying, but definitely compliments of altitude! Altitude is the worst when it comes to cooling.

I’ll be going with the 535i cooler then if I can support it easily with the preexisting housing with the oil cooler (brick thing). Thanks for confirming.
I took a look over at the forums and bimmerlabs and it looks like they make a mafless tune that makes a touch more power up top (euro tune) but not for the 530i which is weird considering the stock 30i tune for e90’s and e60’s are the same file.
For headers I’ll have to go aftermarket tune.

 

[edyvw]

Sorry

I’ll be going with the 535i cooler then if I can support it easily with the preexisting housing with the oil cooler (brick thing). Thanks for confirming.
I took a look over at the forums and bimmerlabs and it looks like they make a mafless tune that makes a touch more power up top (euro tune) but not for the 530i which is weird considering the stock 30i tune for e90’s and e60’s are the same file.
For headers I’ll have to go aftermarket tune.

1. Yes. Oil Filter Housing for "brick" and oil cooler is the same. Big difference though: If you have failed gasket on brick, your coolant and oil can easily mix. No such danger on oil cooler setup!
2. Yes, AutoWerke I think makes headers and tune.

Don't forget that you have a heat exchanger between the radiator and transmission. Keep coolant ratio 10% coolant concentrate, 90% distilled water. Distilled water is much better at dissipating heat.
Another thing if you did not change the coolant reservoir and mickey mouse flange, do it ASAP!