BMW N52 long crank

[mosaud1998]

Someones gotta have an idea of what this can be.

I think I posted about this before but can't seem to find the post.

I had this same issue during the beginning of 2021 and a year ago(Jan 2020) after I got the Valve Cover Gasket and Oil Pan Gasket replaced(where it would take 2-3 seconds to start/turn over). Wouldn't happen constantly.

Now it happens every time I go to start the car

Ignition coils and Spark Plugs were done 2k miles ago.

I had the ground wires taken a look at by my Indy a few months back when I had them replace the Valve Tronic Motor gasket (Under Warranty). Those are fine.

Battery was tested, that's good too.

No codes showing up either.

Winters on its way and I don't want to be stranded. Car has 75k miles if that matters

Link to video:

 

[Danno]

Thinking fuel issue, possibly a fuel pump going out.

 

[mightymousetech]

Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator, which is in the fuel tank, on the opposite side from the fuel pump. Need to check fuel pressure after shut off and see if it is bleeding down.

 

[tiger862]

Have someone borescope the cylinders for carbon.

 

[Lubener]

Before a cold start, I would try cycling the key on/off a few times prior to starting. If that helps, I would then check fuel pressure to verify a failing fuel pump. If the fuel filter hasn't been changed in a while, I would replace it before condenming the fuel pump.

 

[RooflessVW]

Have someone borescope the cylinders for carbon.

Why

 

[JHZR2]

Does it have an hpfp?

 

[RooflessVW]

Does it have an hpfp?

Negative.

 

[wander2039]

Sounds like the same issue the Dakota has and had for years. I did basically the same thing ignition wise but it's fuel related. From researching there's a drain back valve in the fuel pump that keeps the fuel from draining back, at least on the Dakota. Haven't did any testing yet but there's no wet plugs. I did put a bottle of Berryman's in last week and seems to decreasing the crank time, not even 40 miles on the tank so the verdict is still out.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Sounds like the fuel pressure regulator, which is in the fuel tank, on the opposite side from the fuel pump. Need to check fuel pressure after shut off and see if it is bleeding down.

Listen to this ^^ guy who's a BMW technician.

 

[edyvw]

Have someone borescope the cylinders for carbon.

If you think CBU, this is port injected engine and no issues with that.

 

[mosaud1998]

Does it have an hpfp?

Nope, 335s have those

 

[edyvw]

Nope, 335s have those

Listen advice about fuel regulator.

 

[mosaud1998]

.

 

[mk378]

Now it happens every time I go to start the car

That is actually good, it makes the problem a lot easier to find.

If it is simply fuel drain-back, that is not something that is going to get worse or end with a complete failure to start.

 

[mightymousetech]

Listen to this ^^ guy who's a BMW technician.

And this is what it looks like. I have a spare in my box in case it starts happening in my own E90.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

And this is what it looks like. I have a spare in my box in case it starts happening in my own E90.

Along with an H&R Box and a can of something from Wurth. A true BMW guy.

 

[mightymousetech]

Along with an H&R Box and a can of something from Wurth. A true BMW guy.

And dont forget the N20 oil filter housing with integral oil cooler.

 

[Trav]

Before loading the parts cannon check the obvious first, fuel pressure and does it hold the pressure, coolant temp sensor, fuel pump relay (they don't need to have failed completely to cause issues long before total failure), other sensors will probably throw a code or CEL.
Without turning the engine over turn the key on for a few seconds then off a few times then immediately start it. If it starts right up you may well have a bad pressure regulator.

 

[mosaud1998]

And this is what it looks like. I have a spare in my box in case it starts happening in my own E90.

Do I need to order a whole new fuel pump or can I just buy a regulator alone?