BMW E92 pulling when braking

Okay, thanks. Looks like I need to order m3 control arm kit and new sway bars. I would do tie rod, too, but it seems like I need special tools.
You will need head light sensor link too. M3 has different connection. Biggest improvement you will get from thrust arm and upper control arm.
 
You will need head light sensor link too. M3 has different connection. Biggest improvement you will get from thrust arm and upper control arm.
Yeah, but sway bar links are only 20 dollars each. Thrust arms are why my steering feels terrible probably
 
Yeah, but sway bar links are only 20 dollars each. Thrust arms are why my steering feels terrible probably
Sway bar links should be changed absolutely. Since you are doing everything, change everything. But, if you have light leveling sensor, on driver side, you will need light sensor link that is specific to M3 as your current ones won’t be able to attach on upper control arm from M3. FCP has instructions how to upgrade to M3 arms.
And yes, thrust arms mess up steering. I changed my bushings yesterday as they softened a bit after 25k, probably from track use.
 
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Sway bar links should be changed absolutely. Since you are doing everything, change everything. But, if you have light leveling sensor, on driver side, you will need light sensor link that is specific to M3 as your current ones won’t be able to attach on upper control arm from M3. FCP has instructions how to upgrade to M3 arms.
And yes, thrust arms mess up steering. I changed my bushings yesterday as they softened a bit after 25k, probably from track use.
I have adaptive xenons, so I think I do have headlight leveling sensor. The fcp kit comes with it. Is there anything else I should do while I’m under there?
 
I have adaptive xenons, so I think I do have headlight leveling sensor. The fcp kit comes with it. Is there anything else I should do while I’m under there?
Oh that is good then.
Cannot think of anything. Check your bearings. RWD have more sensitive bearings compared to xDrive.
You are disconnecting everything so you might do that too.
 
Oh that is good then.
Cannot think of anything. Check your bearings. RWD have more sensitive bearings compared to xDrive.
You are disconnecting everything so you might do that too.
Which bearings?
 
Front. You are taking most stuff from knuckle. You might as well do that. If you don’t have tools, get knuckle out and get some shop to press bearings in. Though you can get hub with bearings already in. Two FAG bearings will be $80’ish.
I think I’ll wait on wheel bearings until they break. I don’t want to spend anymore on the car right now 😂
 
True. But when that day comes you will be ready to pay double just not to disassemble everything.
Yeah. I hope that doesn’t happen. I’m just getting tired of BMWs. My dad is about to get rid of his E90. He’s had a lot of things break, and know I think the front differential is bad
 
Yeah. I hope that doesn’t happen. I’m just getting tired of BMWs. My dad is about to get rid of his E90. He’s had a lot of things break, and know I think the front differential is bad
That is unusual. What are his symptoms?
There is nothing unusual in changing these parts. Front suspension on my Toyota Sienna was completely shot at 80k.
 
That is unusual. What are his symptoms?
There is nothing unusual in changing these parts. Front suspension on my Toyota Sienna was completely shot at 80k.


Raaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar

Goes away when front driveshaft disconnected
 


Raaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar

Goes away when front driveshaft disconnected

Probably front driveshaft, common on XDrive.

As far as BMWs, you probably just bought one that is right around the mileage where they start needing some maintenance and repairs. When you replace those parts it will be good for a while. All cars have that point where they start needing a few things. My buddy's "super reliable" Tacoma that he owned from 80k miles to 120k miles needed both front calipers, a new A/C compressor, alternator, and a few other things.
 
Probably front driveshaft, common on XDrive.

As far as BMWs, you probably just bought one that is right around the mileage where they start needing some maintenance and repairs. When you replace those parts it will be good for a while. All cars have that point where they start needing a few things. My buddy's "super reliable" Tacoma that he owned from 80k miles to 120k miles needed both front calipers, a new A/C compressor, alternator, and a few other things.
I hope it’s just the driveshaft. Since we don’t know if it’s 100% the driveshaft, we ordered a cheap one off amazon. But, yeah, the previous owners didn’t really do anything preventatively.
 
I hope it’s just the driveshaft. Since we don’t know if it’s 100% the driveshaft, we ordered a cheap one off amazon. But, yeah, the previous owners didn’t really do anything preventatively.
Cheap axles, and cheap driveshafts, are often much worse than worn out OEM. I’ve had “new” cheap axles vibrate like an SOB. I wouldn’t put any of that Amazon junk on one of my cars ever again. OEM, or GKN, only.
 
I hope it’s just the driveshaft. Since we don’t know if it’s 100% the driveshaft, we ordered a cheap one off amazon. But, yeah, the previous owners didn’t really do anything preventatively.
It's usually the u-joint in the driveshaft that isn't replaceable. I've replaced two of them on XDrives. I think the last one the customer (a family member) opted for one from Napa and it has been fine since. Yeah unfortunately some cars you can tell the owners just do the bare minimum then dump them when stuff starts breaking. When I first got my car it had a few things I needed to iron out from lack of previous owner care, but going on 4+ years now it has been pretty good.
 
It's usually the u-joint in the driveshaft that isn't replaceable. I've replaced two of them on XDrives. I think the last one the customer (a family member) opted for one from Napa and it has been fine since. Yeah unfortunately some cars you can tell the owners just do the bare minimum then dump them when stuff starts breaking. When I first got my car it had a few things I needed to iron out from lack of previous owner care, but going on 4+ years now it has been pretty good.
The front driveshaft on my step daughter‘s X-3 was knackered. The U-joint had considerable play in it and my local driveshaft guy couldn’t rebuilt it. A new GKN front was about $450.
 
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