Bleed the brakes when you have ABS??? HOW????????

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I have a 2005 Toyota RAV4 with ABS and I want to bleed the brakes. From what I have learned, the fluid in the lines going to the ABS pump will not be flushed. How can you get that flushed out without going to the stealership?
 
Some pumps have a bleeder. Some don't.
If you are doing it regularly, just bleed your calipers and don't worry about it. You should cycle the abs before and after. Find a dirt road and engage the abs.
Some pumps can be tricked into cycling by spinning a wheel during the bleed.
Every automaker seems to do it their own way. You should reference the FSM if you are not brake experienced.
 
Just like was mentioned, make sure to trigger the ABS. My brakes still felt a little spongy after the bleed. Hitting ABS a few times cured that.
 
Well, high end code readers can cycle the ABS to do that.

Sometimes it is best to have a shop do things.
 
You only need to bleed the ABS gizmo if the system is contaminated or the gizmo has been replaced. There isn't enough brake fluid in the ABS device to make a real difference otherwise.
 
I will just bleed the brakes normally with the vacuum pump I have. Can't recall the name of the manufacturer, but you just pump it up and crack open the bleeder. Out comes the old brackish fluid. I think it is a Mighty Vac. It has worked well on non ABS cars. This will be the first bleed on the RAV4 from new. It only has 35,500 miles for a 2005. It is very well maitained by me. I have been disabled and do what I can, when I can to save money. Oil and tranny is cake. The transfer case is a bit difficult. The rear differential is easier then an oil change. When I do the transfer case and diff next, I will be replacing it with Mobil 1 Synthetic LS fluid. I figure being the second change after getting the original gunk and shavings out ( small particles ) that it will be in there for the rest of the vehicles life.

My dad had a 1985 Chevy Suburban that had a 6.2 diesel in it. He only changed the oil, air filter, fuel filter and coolant. That automatic lasted for about 200,000 miles of some hard work, including towing a 28' camper trailer and a small utility trailer. It was a beast. Body rust and the tranny finally killed that thing. It was a nice truck for a 2 WD. Ran great in the snow. My RAV 4 had to pull it out of mud though. LOL!!!!!!!!
 
UNDUMMY

How would I go about "tricking" the ABS into cycling? With the ignition key on, engine running, etc. etc.??? I read a column that Toyota has a diagnostic tool that cycles the ABS. I would like to have the whole thing done once rather then do it a few times.
 
I don't share all my secrets. Reread my post above. And, understand what causes the ABS to kick on(usually a wheel speed difference when the pedal is applied). Then, mimic that on jack stands hint hint.
 
Is the "spinning wheel" technique any different from the "dirt road" technique? Does it accomplish anything different?
 
Originally Posted By: ZZman
Well, high end code readers can cycle the ABS to do that.

Sometimes it is best to have a shop do things.
+1 This is one with Honda's ABS that I take to the shop(not dealer). Not that expensive, and I have peace of mind, and avoid the bleeding mess and disposal. That just works for me.
 
I have tried the 'spinning wheel' techniques with varied success.
I really don't know if it is helping to purge the main ABS block or not. No way to tell for sure.
Mainly, it allows you to do everything on the rack, instead of driving it.
 
Originally Posted By: kazual
I have a 2005 Toyota RAV4 with ABS and I want to bleed the brakes. From what I have learned, the fluid in the lines going to the ABS pump will not be flushed. How can you get that flushed out without going to the stealership?


Only ABS control units with an internal reservoir that is bypassed during a normal flush need to be cycled to remove the old fluid from that reservoir.
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Is the "spinning wheel" technique any different from the "dirt road" technique? Does it accomplish anything different?


I simply mentioned it for the fact if someone thinks to need to run the ABS while bleeding brakes.

Dont know who needs dirt roads to activate ABS. Even standard Duralast pads and good tires can cause lockup with a good stop on dry pavement.
 
On GM's the line from the master goes right in then out of the ABS module no reservoir, then right down to each corner,so by using say a motive bleeder it will flush the abs module.
 
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