BITOG trend I noticed

[Rolla07]

Originally Posted By: OilyMember
How is my simple baster method wrong? It took that amount of times to get the fluid clean and some crud out to my liking and took 5 minutes tops each time with a pump. I plan to install a Magnefine when I install a trans cooler with remote filter. Kept it simple and got my desired results which was ridding the system of nasty, brown blackish fluid with bits of sediment. Now I can monitor clean fluid and will know of I have an issue.


Its not wrong, it just makes more sense to yank the return line and flush it all at once. Turkey baster always leaves old fluid. My point simply is, you are going to overdo oil changes but save a few minutes by not doing a complete fluid exchange on your P/S fluid.

 

[OilyMember]

Originally Posted By: Oregoonian
Just curious OilyMember....Since I'm and Oregonian, and we live in a 'No Sales Tax' state.....did you have to pay sales tax in the the state you purchased your vehicle and boat?


I purchased both privately so no. However If Ca. comes asking for $$$ (wouldn't be surprised) I guess the technical way is taking delivery over the state line which dealers supposedly do routinely. I was told private sales aren't hassled as much but then again it's Ca. and the one thing they are good at is having their hand out

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted By: OilyMember
Long time lurker love this site and the great info, but why do I constantly see the trend to veer off legitimate questions about top quality synthetic oils to the cheapest suitable dino when it doesn't have any relevance to what someone is asking? I respect the members suggestions to potentially save people money but once again the original question is often never answered.

For example I purchased a 07 Denali with 71k on the clock and a pretty good history of basic, run of the mill dealer dino oil changes including one less than 500 miles ago from when I purchased it. It had a no name jobber filter and unknown flavor or 5w30 in the sump. I dumped that out and installed some Castrol Magnetec and a Fram Ultra before driving back to Oregon in 110° heat hauling a boat I also bought. I then plan to dump out the Magnatec around 3,000 miles due to utilizing tank after tank of Berryman's, Gumout etc. to get a decent fuel system cleaning and help a bumby idle. (It worked). Anyways I plan to run some Schaeffers, Mobile1,Castrol etc. from now on, but I guarantee if I asked a legitimate question about which synthetic for my blasphemous short OCI's with a Fram Ultra I bet 90% of my replies would be to run whatever dino meets spec with lesser filter for my chosen maintenance regimen. How does that answer my original question regarding what I am after? What if I only want the very best and can afford to "waste" great oil because that's my plan? BTW I have already R&R'd the power steering fluid 4 times due to it being nasty, the trans with Castrol Dex VI via cooler line method, front and rear diff with Amsoil severe gear, and brake fluid 2x's to feel better about it. Will my BITOG career be short lived? I say this jokingly and do take the advice given here often but it would be nice if the forum could shift a little towards sticking to the info being requested otherwise we are doing a disservice.


You didn't get the answer you wanted because with short OCI's, any synthetic will do. There's just not much to discuss. If you don't want to run conventional oil, the answer you'll get will probably be "whatever is cheapest/on-sale".

I don't see anything wrong with using a baster to replace the master cylinder fluid. It won't do anything for the brake lines until you flush, but it will sure shorten the amount of flushing you need until you get fresh fluid out of the bleeders.

 

[69GTX]

Originally Posted By: Rolla07

Its not wrong, it just makes more sense to yank the return line and flush it all at once. Turkey baster always leaves old fluid. My point simply is, you are going to overdo oil changes but save a few minutes by not doing a complete fluid exchange on your P/S fluid.


An engine oil change is done at 3X to 10X the frequency of a PS fluid change. And the contaminants produced in engine oil are not comparable to PS fluid, where viscosity changes from shearing are probably the biggest factor. When you do an engine oil change you leave considerable old fluid behind, unless you flush your engine, or do a double oil change. And some OEM's are recommending leaving oil filters in for 2X OCI's (or longer)...which means up to 8-16 oz of old fluid remaining. You can probably turkey baste your PS system to similar levels of purity as a 2X engine oil filter OCI.

 

[jeepman3071]

I think the problem is that if someone is seeking advice on which synthetic to run for a short OCI such as 3,000 miles, the only advice that can really be given will be opinion based and nothing else. This is because with such a short OCI, ANY synthetic will really be overkill, and one won't be better than the other. At that point it becomes which bottle do you like better, or which is cheaper.

In an effort to save money, people will recommend a dino oil that suits the needs perfectly, while not really noticing they are deviating from the original topic.

I have been on this site a few years, and have learned a TON about oil here. I never really used synthetics before or knew much about them. I had heard the typical "Pennzoil is made of wax" and other fairy tales from people I knew. Oil is a sensitive topic for many people. They form opinions based on commercial advertising, advice from family members, personal experience, etc.

What this site has taught me to do is use scientific data and facts (such as UOAs) when comparing oils over bottle colors and advertising.

In turn, I have learned that you don't need the most expensive synthetic to effectively protect your engine, if you don't plan on doing extended drains. Why spend $50 an oil change when $20 will do you just fine? A friend of mine was using Royal Purple synthetic in his Civic and changing it every 3000 miles (with an e-core filter). He is a poor college student and really couldn't afford this, but had heard only the most expensive synthetics will protect your engine for a long time. I was able to teach him about oil a little bit, and now he uses a good conventional, decent filter, and changes it every 5,000 miles for much less cost. He can use that saved money to put towards brakes and other maintenance items now.

 

[yeti]

Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: OilyMember
Long time lurker love this site and the great info, but why do I constantly see the trend to veer off legitimate questions about top quality synthetic oils to the cheapest suitable dino when it doesn't have any relevance to what someone is asking? I respect the members suggestions to potentially save people money but once again the original question is often never answered.


I feel your pain, LOL.

Q: Should I do A or B?
A: Dozens answer C, D, EFGHIJKLMNOP...


^^^ this.

there are many examples of these threads.
the ones that I find the most funny:
one will ask a question about legal/medical/insurance problem -- or,other issues where the rules vary from state to state.if the op is from Utah, then the replies should be from members from Utah. many will reply from 15 different states, canada, australia -- you get the picture.these posts are as useless to the op, as teats on a bull.they usually start -- "I don't know about your area, but here ...". I guess some just like to hear themselves talk.

the other funny threads -- a guy will ask opinions about 1 or 2 different cars, x and y, and will get comments about a, b, c, d, e, f, and so on. totally useless drek -- to the op.

after all, this IS the internet. the laughs that the group gets from bitog never end. thank (your diety) for that.
have a good day, all.

 

[Hootbro]

BITOG really has reached max saturation. There really is no new questions that get posted that have not been answered before. It is just now varying shades of peoples opinions and brand preference bias with everybody screaming over each other to try and be relevant.

Usually a OP's questions is answered within the first 5 posts or so. After that, it veers off bombastic anecdotal statements or google experts chiming in.

This board really could shutdown to new posting for 5 years and be searchable only before the need for new questions would arise.

 

[cjcride]

It's not just a BITOG thing.
It's happening at many other sites also.

 

[OilyMember]

I get what has been said but bottom line I can start a thread about X,Y,Z oil and I will get "why?"or "run oil out of the Jiffy Lube waste oil container" your 800hp boat will be perfectly fine on super tech. Maybe I will start some legit threads and see where they go

 

[Astro14]

Originally Posted By: OilyMember
I get what has been said but bottom line I can start a thread about X,Y,Z oil and I will get "why?"or "run oil out of the Jiffy Lube waste oil container" your 800hp boat will be perfectly fine on super tech. Maybe I will start some legit threads and see where they go

I think you're suffering from the misconception that spending more on oil is better for your engine. In most cases, it isn't.

 

[OilyMember]

Originally Posted By: Astro14
Originally Posted By: OilyMember
I get what has been said but bottom line I can start a thread about X,Y,Z oil and I will get "why?"or "run oil out of the Jiffy Lube waste oil container" your 800hp boat will be perfectly fine on super tech. Maybe I will start some legit threads and see where they go

I think you're suffering from the misconception that spending more on oil is better for your engine. In most cases, it isn't.


Swing and a miss...I know what oil is better for my vehicles, [censored] I haven't even asked a "what oil?" question, just stating my observations of BITOG trend as of late.

 

[RemingtonHill]

I don't know why you don't just order cases of redline and be done with it?

 

[69GTX]

Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Why spend $50 an oil change when $20 will do you just fine? A friend of mine was using Royal Purple synthetic in his Civic and changing it every 3000 miles (with an e-core filter). He is a poor college student and really couldn't afford this, but had heard only the most expensive synthetics will protect your engine for a long time. I was able to teach him about oil a little bit, and now he uses a good conventional, decent filter, and changes it every 5,000 miles for much less cost. He can use that saved money to put towards brakes and other maintenance items now.

The college student could have recently loaded up on AAP QSUD for 39c/qt and saved even more money for books. And he could buy 2 OCI's per year with $2.50/qt PP or M1 using the mfg rebates. No need to go to the Quick Lube and pay $55-$75 for a synthetic oil change. Bring your own stuff and have them change it for $10-$15 labor. A good conventional oil, often costs more than a good synthetic on sale/clearance.

 

[Rolla07]

Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: Rolla07

Its not wrong, it just makes more sense to yank the return line and flush it all at once. Turkey baster always leaves old fluid. My point simply is, you are going to overdo oil changes but save a few minutes by not doing a complete fluid exchange on your P/S fluid.


An engine oil change is done at 3X to 10X the frequency of a PS fluid change. And the contaminants produced in engine oil are not comparable to PS fluid, where viscosity changes from shearing are probably the biggest factor. When you do an engine oil change you leave considerable old fluid behind, unless you flush your engine, or do a double oil change. And some OEM's are recommending leaving oil filters in for 2X OCI's (or longer)...which means up to 8-16 oz of old fluid remaining. You can probably turkey baste your PS system to similar levels of purity as a 2X engine oil filter OCI.


Point im making, is that if you are going to overdo oil changes why not "overdo PS fluid exchange too?" Reality is, yank the return and do a complete change every 50-100k miles is easier and might i argue better than doing turkey baster method repetitively during every OCI?

 

[jeepman3071]

Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Originally Posted By: jeepman3071
Why spend $50 an oil change when $20 will do you just fine? A friend of mine was using Royal Purple synthetic in his Civic and changing it every 3000 miles (with an e-core filter). He is a poor college student and really couldn't afford this, but had heard only the most expensive synthetics will protect your engine for a long time. I was able to teach him about oil a little bit, and now he uses a good conventional, decent filter, and changes it every 5,000 miles for much less cost. He can use that saved money to put towards brakes and other maintenance items now.

The college student could have recently loaded up on AAP QSUD for 39c/qt and saved even more money for books. And he could buy 2 OCI's per year with $2.50/qt PP or M1 using the mfg rebates. No need to go to the Quick Lube and pay $55-$75 for a synthetic oil change. Bring your own stuff and have them change it for $10-$15 labor. A good conventional oil, often costs more than a good synthetic on sale/clearance.


Yup, exactly. I taught him to change it himself in his driveway, and to look for deals. We just used Napa conventional for the first change since they had a sale.

 

[camrydriver111]

Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Another trend I noticed is former banned members that keep coming back over and over. Most of them being complete drama queens that can't get over themselves.

Does the guy who had a 30 page thread about his Honda head gasket repair still visit the site?

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: camrydriver111
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
Another trend I noticed is former banned members that keep coming back over and over. Most of them being complete drama queens that can't get over themselves.

Does the guy who had a 30 page thread about his Honda head gasket repair still visit the site?


Was this the engineer20 (or something like that) thread? Oh wait,that's the fishing lure dude I think.