Bin' look'n ???

[Geo148]

I have been lurking in the shadows for some time now, can't quite find my answer thru the search...
3.8 Buick Regal GS, supercharged, with 118,000 and climbing.
I use my car for work and average 125 miles perday. The car is shut off and started at each clients home. Some times it sits for two hours some are only 10 minutes. I usually drive highway or country roads. The oil was changed by the dealer every 4-5 thousand miles. (it never went beyond 5K) they said they used Quackerstate (O/C came free with the purchase of the car). Making appointments every 4-6 weeks is now getting to be a real PITA. So, what would be a good and inexpexsive oil for my car I want the car to last and I like doing my own maintenance. One more, is it worth it to have one of those fumoto valves instead of the plug. Sorry if its kinda long... and Thanx for a great site!!
George

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Fumoto is wunnerful if you're out of warranty. Makes OC life simple.

If you're racking up the miles, out of warranty, I'd go 7500-10,000 mile OCI with a good syn (they're all good), use a good filter, call it a day. If 7500-10,000 mile OCI makes you hinky, install your Fumoto to make life simple, and use almost ANY Dino (Havoline would be my choise, but folks would argue), and change at 5K.

You'll be well served with either scheme, from what I've read and learned scanning these many pages.

 

[AndyH]

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Fumoto is wunnerful if you're out of warranty. Makes OC life simple.

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It's wonderful if you're under warranty as well. My dealership hasn't said a word about my Fumoto valve. Granted, I do my oil changes. But I'm sure they've seen the Fumoto as I have my annual PA state inspection performed at the dealer.

 

[Ray H]

"Good and inexpensive" national brand motor oils: Havoline, Chevron Supreme (both made by Chevron, though the Chevron Supreme will likely be priced lower - same oil in either case, now), Exxon Superflow, Formula Shell, and any of ConocoPhillips' own brands (Phillips 66 TropArtic, Conoco, 76, Kendall GT-1 - all four are synthetic blends, though quite inexpensive. Of these four - essentially the same except for labeling - you'd probably have the most consistent luck locating TropArtic which WalMart generally carries nationwide.)

 

[m2200b]

Fumoto and dinos from Ray H above at 5K should cut that oil change down to 20 minutes. I don't see longer OCI even if your supercharger puts less stress on the oil than a turbo.

 

[Geo148]

I was thinking of going to full synthetic, from what I've read the walmart brand isn't bad (cost, el cheepo $$) or even Mobil 1 extended / for high mileage cars.
Please, help steer me in the right direction!

 

[jorton]

Your oil may have some fuel and moisture contamination this winter so short intervals(6 weeks for you) are a good idea. An oil change with $3.00 a bottle oil is cheap compared to the price of 1 tank of gas. An advantage of doing your own maintenance is knowing for sure what grade is going into your engine. If you have some loyalty to a particular brand, choose that one in the grade that's recommended by the mfr.

 

[Geo148]

One more ?? because of so many start ups with my car, Most are, with the car warm. I was hoping for some comments on a cling to the parts type oil that'll reduce wear type of "stuff" u's guys wanna recomend.

 

[deven]

What kinda car? How many miles do you drive a year? Driving habits? Since you do a lot of start ups albeit with a warm engine, I would go with 5w20 or 0w20 any synthetic oil. I have seen good uoa's on Mobil 1, pennzoil,GC,amsoil and supertech oil.

 

[AndyH]

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What kinda car?

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The O.P. stated "3.8 Buick Regal GS, supercharged, with 118,000 and climbing"

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Since you do a lot of start ups albeit with a warm engine, I would go with 5w20 or 0w20 any synthetic oil. I have seen good uoa's on Mobil 1, pennzoil,GC,amsoil and supertech oil.

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Personally, I wouldn't run a xW-20 oil in a car not spec'd for it's use, but that's just me.