Bicycle Lubrication

Johnny · Oct 2, 2004

Wasn't sure where to post this so I chose the General forum.

Just bought 3 new Trek Bicycles yesterday for the family and was wanting to know what any bicycle experts recommend for lubrication. You know, the chain, cables, etc.

poison · Oct 2, 2004

White Lightning is the standby, an original. It works well.

I have been using Boeshield T-9 for a couple years now, it works better than anything else I've tried. It was originally used for aerospace applications, IIRC.

You can find them online or at your local bike shop.

Nate

poison · Oct 2, 2004

Sorry, forgot to add that the white lightning/boeshield are for the chain. Use Triflow or WD40 on the cables.

Nate

oldman · Oct 2, 2004

Johnny-I use ProLink Chain Lube on my Univega and GT bikes. The ProLink cleans the old dirt and lube out of the chain. This prevents dirt from attaching to the lube and staying on the chain. Hope this helps. The ProLink sheds the dirt that is picked up from riding. If you use regular oil the oil will attract the dirt and get into the chain and clog the links.

427Z06 · Oct 3, 2004

You may want to look at this:

http://www.sandsmachine.com/grease_t.htm

poison · Oct 3, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by 427Z06:
You may want to look at this:

http://www.sandsmachine.com/grease_t.htm

Where the **** did you pull that from? Do you have S&S couplings? Those rock, i want a bike with 'em.

Anyway, those wet lubes appropriate for the couplings are not good at all for a bike chain or cable. Wet lube on chains attracts dirt and dust and will affect shifting and performance negatively. You need a dry lube like the ones already mentioned.

For the cables, you want a thin lube, like triflow or WD40 simply because they are stuffed inside plastic housings and a thick lube could cause unnecessary friction i.e. slow the cable movement down. Cable lube should be slippery and able to provide rust protection.

Nate

poison · Oct 3, 2004

Another BTW:

When you lube bike chains, don't buy aerosol, buy a drip bottle. You need a drop on each link in the chain where it connects to the next link. Every single one, or you will develop a squeak.

So be anal and turn the bike upsidedown and do it drop by drop. It only takes a minute or two.

They need to be lubed regularly also, not once a year, and cleaned when you see a buildup of lube residue or dirt. Clean with Simple green or Orange Peelz, just keep those off the areas with bearings, like the wheel hubs, bottom bracket, etc...

tdi-rick · Oct 3, 2004

I've been using Rock-n-Roll chain lubes on both my bikes for the last couple of years. Extreme on the MTB and Gold on the roadie. I like it.
Slick Honey ( a silicon grease) is great for fork bushings, etc. I leave the cables alone, as they are teflon lined and sealed. I got a couple of seasons out of Jag Wire, and have just replaced them with XTR, which come pre-greased, on the MTB.
Copper based anti-seize is great on things like bottom brackets.

On a MTB forum I infrequently visit, one of the racers was spruiking the benefits of some very new chain lube from Royal Purple, Purple Extreme, and how he felt it was superior to R n R, Pro Link and Boeshield, although, as always, there was dissention

Anyone know anything about it ?

Rick.

427Z06 · Oct 3, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by poison:

quote:

Originally posted by 427Z06:
You may want to look at this:

http://www.sandsmachine.com/grease_t.htm

Click to expand...

Where the **** did you pull that from? Do you have S&S couplings? Those rock, i want a bike with 'em.

Anyway, those wet lubes appropriate for the couplings are not good at all for a bike chain or cable. Wet lube on chains attracts dirt and dust and will affect shifting and performance negatively. You need a dry lube like the ones already mentioned.

For the cables, you want a thin lube, like triflow or WD40 simply because they are stuffed inside plastic housings and a thick lube could cause unnecessary friction i.e. slow the cable movement down. Cable lube should be slippery and able to provide rust protection.

Nate

I posted that link for bearings and S and S fasteners and other appropriate applications, but I didn't say it was for everything.

Looks like you covered every other part of the bike. Only I can't understand why you would ever recommend WD40 for anything except as a nice smelling solvent.

poison · Oct 3, 2004

Ha, I guess you're right. Is triflow better than WD40?

msparks · Oct 3, 2004

I use Amsoil Heavy Duty MP on my Bicycle chains. Goes on wet, dries to a wax like film. Works great on both my road bike and my MTB.

I'm getting ready to have the bike torn down this winter. I'll be regreasing with Amsoil synthetic grease and I'll probably use Amsoil MP on all of the cables.

Eiron · Oct 5, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by Johnny:
Just bought 3 new Trek Bicycles yesterday for the family and was wanting to know what any bicycle experts recommend for lubrication. You know, the chain, cables, etc.

Mtn bikes? Road bikes? What kind of roads &/or trails? Riding all year in all kinds of weather or just on nice days?

Augh! Too much to know!!!

OK, for dry weather on roads, WL is great on chains. But I don't like its lack of water protection. For occasional water interaction, I prefer Finish Line's dry lube. For heavier water dousings I go with Tri-Flow. And for snotty, slushy rides I use One Lube 'cuz it resists washing off the most. On trails, I usually use Finish Line dry lube 'cuz it offers a good balance between keeping dirt off and keeping water out. But I usually ride trails when they're dry, so I don't have to deal with mud in my chain. If I knew I was going for a mud ride, I'd probably use One Lube.

For cables, I prefer DuPont's Teflon Drivetrain Lube (in the earlier link). But unless you find it at a Bike Swap somewhere, you'll never get any 'cuz they don't make it any more. My next choice is Finish Line (dry again), or one of those liquid graphite lubes for locks.

Seatposts get a very, very light coating of not-too-slippery grease, so that you don't have to over-tighten the clamp just to keep it from slipping down on you. Waterproof is good too, since the rear tire will throw junk against it. I usually use Phil Wood Waterproof Grease 'cuz I have some, but I think Lano Lube would be great here.

All my bearings are currently getting DuPont Teflon Bearing Grease (earlier link), but I've also used an off-brand syn automotive bearing grease with good results. (It was on clearance someplace.)

I've also discovered that dribbling One Lube (oil) into the rear freehub body does an astounding job of quieting the freehub's pawls. I mean, it's absolutely amazing! You don't need very much unless you've let it go too long & now it's dried & crusty. A once-a-year dribble is about all you'll need.

Johnny · Oct 5, 2004

I'm old, fat, and out of shape, so no mountain bikes for me. Strickly good weather street riding for this family, at least at this time. Here is what I bought

TREK Calypso Cruiser for myself.
TREK Navigator 200 womens bike for my wife.
TREK Navigator 300 for my son.

All I need now for my cruiser is some clothes pens and some cards. Only the older generation will know what these are for.

Thanks to everyone for all the information. You would think that someone that works for an oil company would know this. But we are in the automobile business, not the bicycle business.

The shop where I purchased the bikes gave me two bottles of some stuff called ProLink ProGold Chain Lubricant. He says it's the best he has ever used, but he is not a member of BITOG.

moribundman · Oct 5, 2004

I'm really tired of chains and gears and grease and sand and wear. My next bike will have a shaft drive transmission, which is sand, dust, and waterproof. I'm sure it's have a nice name like Shimano Exzema -Pro.

msparks · Oct 5, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by Johnny:

The shop where I purchased the bikes gave me two bottles of some stuff called ProLink ProGold Chain Lubricant. He says it's the best he has ever used, but he is not a member of BITOG.

This reminds me of my ride this evening. We did about 20 miles and I was in the fast group, we were tooling along around 23 mph or so I'm behind this older guy on an old school bike(with the shifter on the frame) anyhow his drivetrain sounded awefull. There was a lot of squeeking and rattling going on. I then listened to mine and it was whisper quiet.
We had a 69 miler this past saturday and it was sort of wet. So this afternoon before my ride I cleaned up the drive train a bit(sprayed on some Amsoil PI) then wiped it off with a rag. Then I re-sprayed the chain with the Heavy Duty Metal Protector.

I then thought to myself. That Amsoil HD-MP works great, my bike shifts crisp and there is no noise and you get a giant can for less than $6.

Anyhow, congrats on your bike. You say your old and fat now. Start riding that bike and you won't believe what it will do for you. There are some old guys that I think were fat at one time. (I can hardly keep up with them) So get out there and build yourself up.

BTW, there is a great forum for cyclists. www.bikeforums.net check it out.

[ October 05, 2004, 10:14 PM: Message edited by: msparks ]

moribundman · Oct 6, 2004

quote:

moribundman,
You'd better get a copyright on that, pronto! [Big Grin]

You mean a patent.

I'd be late, very late. They had bicycles with a shaft drive already over 100 years ago. And I see them now on the road. I think one of the companies that makes them is called Amis.

PRRPILL · Oct 6, 2004

My company sponsors a local cycling team, and have changed them to Purple Extreme. It works very well as long as the chain has been cleaned well, prior to application. We have people using it in Adventure races,triathlons,MTB and road. The consensus is that it stays on, and lubricates here in the hot south for about 800 miles. (road). It will only wash off with citric products, and dries when applied.I have run the industrial version on my motorcycle and road bikes for the past 6 years.Chain lub hs been a big seller for a while.

Eiron · Oct 6, 2004

quote:

Originally posted by moribundman:
You mean a patent.

I'd be late, very late. They had bicycles with a shaft drive already over 100 years ago. ...

Oops, sorry! I was talkin'bout the "Exzema-Pro" name, not the shaft drive concept. The companion model, of course, would be the "Pro-Riasis"!

moribundman · Oct 6, 2004

quote:

Oops, sorry! I was talkin'bout the "Exzema-Pro" name, not the shaft drive concept. The companion model, of course, would be the "Pro-Riasis"! [Wink]

Good one!

Eiron · Oct 6, 2004

moribundman,
You'd better get a copyright on that, pronto!

Johnny,
I've heard really good things about ProLink but I haven't tried it yet (too many other lubes cluttering up the workbench!). Also, msparks' suggestion of Amsoil's Heavy Duty Metal Protector sounds like a good one. Either one of these could probably replace my complicated chain lube regimen. (But I'll still use FL on the cables & OL for the freehub.) And now that you've mentioned it, I might have to find my deck of cards...

Bicycle Lubrication

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