BG EPR - OK to run in engine during last leg of long trip?

S

Scott M Lewis

Joined
Jan 18, 2022
Messages
2
Hello, all.

I have a Honda CRV 2016 with a 2.4 liter engine (120K miles), GDI of course. An associate (who does not profit in any way from BG products) recommended running a can of BG EPR every once in while to prevent/"fix" stuck oil rings. I believe the latter is something that GDI engines are notorious for.

Soon I will be taking a 140 mile road trip to my parents' residence. Once there, a neighbor and I will be changing the oil and oil filter (Valvoline 0-20W, hi-mileage oil; Purolator One filter), the PCV valve, and, maybe, all four sparkplugs . My question: During the last, say 20, miles of the trip, would be it OK to dump the BG EPR into the crankcase?

FYI: Oil n00b here. Please be gentle.

Many thanks in advance for everyone's feedback.
 
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If it is a fuel system product, then no, it doesn't belong in the case. Yes, Change those plugs! No, I have not heard of stuck rings being notorious with GDI.
 
Scott M Lewis said:
Hello, all.

I have a Honda CRV 2016 with a 2.4 liter engine (120K miles), GDI of course. An associate (who does not profit in any way from BG products) recommended running a can of BG EPR every once in while to prevent/"fix" stuck oil rings. I believe the latter is something that GDI engines are notorious for.

Soon I will be taking a 140 mile road trip to my parents' residence. Once there, a neighbor and I will be changing the oil and oil filter (Valvoline 0-20W, hi-mileage oil; Purolator One filter), the PCV valve, and, maybe, all four sparkplugs . My question: During the last, say 20, miles of the trip, would be it OK to dump the BG EPR into the crankcase?

FYI: Oil n00b here. Please be gentle.

Many thanks in advance for everyone's feedback.
Click to expand...
No, only run it at idle. I got several chunks of hard carbon out with a drain and I don't even have stuck rings. You definitely could clog and oil pickup driving around with it.
 
EPR can be used for 1-2 hours of soft driving without issue. The more aggressive cleaner says to run at 3500rpms for an hour. Go ahead and use it for the last hour or two of the trip.
 
Scott M Lewis said:
Hello, all.

I have a Honda CRV 2016 with a 2.4 liter engine (120K miles), GDI of course. An associate (who does not profit in any way from BG products) recommended running a can of BG EPR every once in while to prevent/"fix" stuck oil rings. I believe the latter is something that GDI engines are notorious for.

Soon I will be taking a 140 mile road trip to my parents' residence. Once there, a neighbor and I will be changing the oil and oil filter (Valvoline 0-20W, hi-mileage oil; Purolator One filter), the PCV valve, and, maybe, all four sparkplugs . My question: During the last, say 20, miles of the trip, would be it OK to dump the BG EPR into the crankcase?

FYI: Oil n00b here. Please be gentle.

Many thanks in advance for everyone's feedback.
Click to expand...
Only idle the engine......no load driving.
EPR is some very strong stuff.
Great for cleaning out rings though.....
 
JavierH19 said:
EPR can be used for 1-2 hours of soft driving without issue. The more aggressive cleaner says to run at 3500rpms for an hour. Go ahead and use it for the last hour or two of the trip.
Click to expand...

Could you provide a source for this suggestion? I have never heard of such a claim and I have a colleague who is one of the top BG guys on earth. I have only ever heard that the recommended usage is to add to the engine and run at idle for up to 30 minutes prior to draining the crankcase
 
Ignatius said:
Could you provide a source for this suggestion? I have never heard of such a claim and I have a colleague who is one of the top BG guys on earth. I have only ever heard that the recommended usage is to add to the engine and run at idle for up to 30 minutes prior to draining the crankcase
Click to expand...
i just looked up "epr instructions" within 5 seconds of reading that and 10 minutes was the bare minimum it to use and it said 1200 rpms and that's as fast as my engine going 45mph down the road. idle is 550.

I think they just want the engine to at least have enough oil pressure to move it good and to be run long enough for it to do something so they don't get a bad review. But i cant possibly see why using it for an hour and at cruising rpm's could hurt a single thing. It wont break the oil down to sludge or thin it out to nothing.
 
JavierH19 said:
i just looked up "epr instructions" within 5 seconds of reading that and 10 minutes was the bare minimum it to use and it said 1200 rpms and that's as fast as my engine going 45mph down the road. idle is 550.

I think they just want the engine to at least have enough oil pressure to move it good and to be run long enough for it to do something so they don't get a bad review. But i cant possibly see why using it for an hour and at cruising rpm's could hurt a single thing. It wont break the oil down to sludge or thin it out to nothing.
Click to expand...

I can't stop anyone from doing anything of their own choosing but I also would not recommend doing certain things as well, driving a vehicle with BG EPR in the crankcase is one thing I would not recommend doing but I cannot stop anyone from doing it who so chooses to do so.
 
Ignatius said:
I can't stop anyone from doing anything of their own choosing but I also would not recommend doing certain things as well, driving a vehicle with BG EPR in the crankcase is one thing I would not recommend doing but I cannot stop anyone from doing it who so chooses to do so.
Click to expand...
i understand the feeling but is there any other reason why one should be concerned over cruising at around 2000 rpms or less at 30% or so engine load with 11oz of cleaner in nearly 5 quarts of oil. I bet it wouldn't reduce the kv100 by 0.5 or more or the hths by 0.1.
 
JavierH19 said:
i understand the feeling but is there any other reason why one should be concerned over cruising at around 2000 rpms or less at 30% or so engine load with 11oz of cleaner in nearly 5 quarts of oil. I bet it wouldn't reduce the kv100 by 0.5 or more or the hths by 0.1.
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Because it will break loose any deposits, this isn't an issue at idle because oil flow volume is low and gunk will just drop to the bottom of the pan, on the highway at 2000rpm oil is being sucked through the pickup very quickly and you're more likely to clog it, plus if anything made it past the filter a load would be put on the bearings squeezing the oil film thinner and could damage it with a scratchy carbon particle.

Last but not least, this is not what the instructions tell you to do, if you pushed your luck and decided to drive it rather than idle and did brick your engine BG will tell you to pound sand cause you didn't follow the instructions.

If you want a cleaning product designed to be used while driving your better off using something like Rislone, MMO, or even seafoam.
 
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Accent Abuser said:
Because it will break loose any deposits, this isn't an issue at idle because oil flow volume is low and gunk will just drop to the bottom of the pan, on the highway at 2000rpm oil is being sucked through the pickup very quickly and you're more likely to clog it, plus if anything made it past the filter a load would be put on the bearings squeezing the oil film thinner and could damage it with a scratchy carbon particle.

Last but not least, this is not what the instructions tell you to do, if you pushed your luck and decided to drive it rather than idle and did brick your engine BG will tell you to pound sand cause you didn't follow the instructions.

If you want a cleaning product designed to be used while driving your better off using something like Rislone, MMO, or even seafoam.
Click to expand...
Yeah that's the purpose of a cleaner, i hope it does the most deposit dislodging it can, and the hot thin oil will still be filtered. The much more aggressive cleaner says to run at 3000 rpm instead and for 45 minutes but that's no issue? The oil pressure is higher as well since having a load drops it by a little so the filter would filter less than 2000rpm with lower pressure.
 
Scott M Lewis said:
Hello, all.

I have a Honda CRV 2016 with a 2.4 liter engine (120K miles), GDI of course. An associate (who does not profit in any way from BG products) recommended running a can of BG EPR every once in while to prevent/"fix" stuck oil rings. I believe the latter is something that GDI engines are notorious for.

Soon I will be taking a 140 mile road trip to my parents' residence. Once there, a neighbor and I will be changing the oil and oil filter (Valvoline 0-20W, hi-mileage oil; Purolator One filter), the PCV valve, and, maybe, all four sparkplugs . My question: During the last, say 20, miles of the trip, would be it OK to dump the BG EPR into the crankcase?

FYI: Oil n00b here. Please be gentle.

Many thanks in advance for everyone's feedback.
Click to expand...
Why do this?
You don't have a problem.
Using this product does one thing for sure, it increases the risk of something going wrong.
 
Thanks, all, for your feedback!

After some consideration, I've decided to follow BG's instructions to run the product in an idling engine (1200 rpms) for 10 or more minutes. My reasons are two-fold:
1) It is, after all, what the manufacturer instructs one to do on the can.
2) This is the first time I have ran such a product through this engine. There is the potential for a lot of loosened carbon, etc. and I don't want to risk a major malfunction due to said debris at highway speeds.

WobblyElvis (love that handle!), the reason I am using this product is due to the fact the vehicle recently started consuming oil (roughly a quart every 2K miles). The vehicle does not smoke nor leak oil. The associate I mentioned in my initial thread said it might be because of stuck piston rings. I figured it couldn't hurt to use an engine cleaner like BG to see if it fixed/improved the issue.
 
Good call on following BG recommendations. Some posters here don't seem to understand that 1200-2000 RPM while the car is in "P" or "N" (not driving and no load from drivetrain) is not the same as 1200-2000 RPM going down the highway in "D" when engine is experiencing extra load from just propelling the vehicle forward, plus RPM will definitely go higher when vehicle downshifts to keep the speed up on inclines.

As mentioned above, a good crankcase cleaner that is safe to drive with is HPL Engine cleaner. Manufacturer does mention to keep it at or below 5000 miles, and change the oil filter once or twice during that OCI, depending on how dirty the engine is. As this Cleaner is much stronger than anything you can find on Auto Parts Store shelf. One of the members here who used it thought he had a clean engine, yet the HPL Cleaner filled up his oil filter with junk real quick. So definitely change the oil filter at least once halfway through the OCI.
Sold here: https://www.advlubrication.com/collections/automotive-lubricants/products/engine-cleaner
 
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