Better lightening protection for a well pump?

I can’t imagine unspooling and working with solid #6, which would be the grounding conductor for a 200 amp residential service.
I have always worked with and use #6 and #4 for grounding and bonding (required by the NEC). I prefer #4 solid copper.
I have never seen stranded Romex in #12 or #14? :unsure:
 
I can’t imagine unspooling and working with solid #6, which would be the grounding conductor for a 200 amp residential service.

Commonly used around here, available at Home Depot:

 
Ever go look at the ground wire on a meter on a house or on a power pole?
Yes, I regularly report broken (typically stolen for the value of the copper) ground wires at wooden poles.

These ground wires typically comprise several strands of solid copper.

They are typically terminated to a ground rod at the base of the pole, with the connection being above ground.

There's always the trade-off between theoretical best conduction of fault or lightning energy vs. real-life durability.
 
They are typically terminated to a ground rod at the base of the pole, with the connection being above ground.

That's interesting--what they seem to in the USA is to coil the ground wire up at the base of the pole, attached/stapled to the bottom of the pole. They don't use a ground rod. This way seems better--no separate ground rod, no connection needs to be made, they just need to staple the ground wire in place before setting the pole.

EDIT: It's always solid wire, too. I have never seen stranded ground wire used on a pole.
 
I have never seen a grounded meter base.

I can’t speak for the high voltage applications, but typically Romex wire is stranded when it’s smaller than #10. I have seen solid on wooden poles and stranded on the steel poles though.

I can’t imagine unspooling and working with solid #6, which would be the grounding conductor for a 200 amp residential service.
We needed a grounding cable for use at fibre-optic cable splice vaults, to run from the metallic sheaths (two per cable) of the two fibre cables out to a pair of ground rods (via an above-ground test station). Therefore, we needed a ground cable with four conductors.

It was essential that water not enter a fibre-optic splice case (FOSC), as water will in time degrade the optical fibres (glass).

In the early years we repurposed grease-filled 25-pair #19-AWG copper communications cable, with the techs prepping the cable to create four groups of six strands each.

This proved to be too labour-intensive, so had to come up with a better solution. Ideally we would have used four finely stranded jacketed conductors, but if the cable's outer jacket and one of the stranded conductors jackets were compromised, that would have allowed water into the FOSC. Water finds a way.

No cable manufacturer would (or could) build a cable containing flooded (grease-filled) stranded conductors. (The interstices between the jacketed subcables could be grease-filled, but the interstices between the fine strands could not be grease-filled.)

Therefore, we were left with only the choice of solid jacketed subcables within a grease-filled sheath.

What size of conductor?

#14 - easy to work with, not enough current-carrying capability

#6 - too hard to work with, but better current capability.

Ultimately.we compromised on #10.

These cables have been in use for 20 years now, and have served well.

It's always a trade-off between theoretical ideals and real life.
 
That's interesting--what they seem to in the USA is to coil the ground wire up at the base of the pole, attached/stapled to the bottom of the pole. They don't use a ground rod. This way seems better--no separate ground rod, no connection needs to be made, they just need to staple the ground wire in place before setting the pole.

EDIT: It's always solid wire, too. I have never seen stranded ground wire used on a pole.
That's clever - I wonder whether that's been tried here?
 
Is it a Grundfos SQE pump?

I installed a surge protector on the SQE control box in the basement, in the circuit between the control and the pump.. The surge protector I used is a GE Tranquell which mounts into a knockout and has 3 wires, two hot and a ground. Similar surge protectors are used with air conditioner units and one of those would work fine.

At the well end, I used a well pump surge protector, again with 3 wires, two hot and a ground. This surge protector was small enough to fit inside the junction box on the well casing sticking out of the ground.

Never had an issue with lightning.
It is a grundfos, not sure of the series, powered by a Franklin mono drive
 
I had problems with power surges from lightning strikes knocking out equipment (not my well pump). The last repairman suggested I check my ground rod that connects to the power meter. Sure enough when I dug a foot down I found that the idiot electrician that installed it just buried the ground wire with no ground rod. After I drove an 8 ft ground rod and attached the ground wire I have not had any more problems. I also had the power company install a surge protector at the meter so that helped also.
Now you've got me thinking... Not sure I've ever seen a ground rod around my pole or house.


Is it acceptable or reasonable to bury a 4ga bare wire from the pole to the house for that purpose?
 
I think Laganobob is talking about 2 phase vs. 3 phase electricity, while you are referring to the number of submersible well pump stages, which can be anywhere from 5 to well over 20.

@ The-Eric, I just replaced a Franklin VFD on my workplace irrigation well for just over $4,000 (ouch).

Off Topic: We also had to replace the well pump and pipe (100') for severe corrosion after only 13 years. We think it might be from severe hard water and/or some sort of electrolysis/stray voltage was occurring. The new pipe is pvc, with a doohickey that prevents pump torque twist. This replacement work cost more than the entire well install 13 years ago. Yes, inflation is wicked

We had a new well dug 3 or 4 years ago to replace the 3" iron casing that had rusted through - we were getting sand in our water so we knew we were in trouble... New pvc 4" casing inside a 6" housing, so hopefully we're set for a long time!
 
While I don't have much to really add, but I did learn that there are well pump systems controlled with a variable drive. Neat. Being an industrial technician I work with those every day. Would make sense on a well pump too as it will slowly ramp up and down the Hertz, instead of just on/off.

Just an old 40/60 pressure switch on mine. My co-worker also has a well, but due to being a double wide the pressure tank is in a concrete bunker in the ground. They lost power the other day and used water. Power came back on and they still didn't have water. Come to find out they have an old pressure switch that has a manual prime. They had to climb down in there to reset it. Nothing like guiding someone who is not mechanically inclined through that... Told them to upgrade that switch ASAP.
 
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