better gas milage?

[dirtymudder]

I have a 1990 motorhome with a 454 4bbl. I am currently using rotella 15w40. I plan on going cross country to Oregon next summer and thought a thinner oil might help out on gas milage. Also thought about synthetic but afraid of possible oil consumption. The motothome has 18000 miles on it. (original). Any thoughts? And what about synthetic trans fluid?

 

[Pablo]

Not sure why you would be concerned with synthetic and consumption...does the engine consume oil now? As for changing to synthetic - if you change the engine, tranny, and diff to synthetic you may see a slight increase in MPG. But remember you are using a 454 to push a couple of sheets of plywood against the wind so...MPG increase is relative

 

[Dominic]

Its very difficult to get food fuel economy using a 454. Great torque, but at the expense of fuel economy sadly. I dont think you'd see more than a 1-2% increase in fuel economy running a 10W-30, which should run fine in it btw. Your best bet for fuel economy with that thing is to either streamline it or drive slower. Sorry

 

[Chris]

We had a box motorhome when I was a kid and I remember getting 7 mpg with a 24' Dodge with a 413. Father put a spoiler on the rear, not very large across the top, and it netted I think one more mile to the gallon! Big percent increase here!

 

[dragboat]

dirtymudder Welcome to the forum. I for one understand your concerns to gain a slight bit more milaege during a long trip like that,and other trips in the future.Even if a 1/2 mile per gallon is gained the savings will accumulate so instead of thinner oils lets talk about slicker oils. You are a prime candidate to use the Schaeffers 15/40 synthetic blend.Time after time this oil proves it's value through engine oil analysis. It will take the heat created from mountain passes and will get you there and back without oil change in between.. I assume the trans uses a Dexron III fluid. Schaeffers type III fluid is as good as it gets and they also have the 131 Nuetra which will help lube the upper cylinder area of the canted valve engine you have that with the 1.7 rocker ratio that wears the valve guides out a bit quicker than some other engines. Also the # 267 Scaeffers gear oil would be a good choice here. These are not OTC products but are OTP with free shipping and a 800 number. There are a number of other OTC products to get the job done but I sincerely would take this route if it were my motorhome. Please take time to look at the home page of site supporters and find the Scheaffers Rep in your area. You can call and discuss these products and will get shot straight because David and Bob are commendable and trust worthy Men If it were a newer engine I would look into a synthetic but I have not personally seen evidence that any of them will outperform the 15/40 blend in terms of pricing and performance so if you are concerned bout leaks,the blend I doubt will let you down there If I had to use a OTC oil in my motor home Mobil 1300 Chevron Delo 400 Trans fluid would be Pennzoil Chevron Fuel additives Techron- but is does not lubricate as far as I know. I hope this in some way helps and please don't let any pokes and jabs at your wants and needs concerning trying to mke your engine more efficient keep you from coming back to the forum,,I can appreciate what you are looking for and bet many others can as well

 

[RC]

I agree thinner might not be the best alternative, but why not a synthetic 15w40 (or blend like Schaffers like dragboat suggested)? Or a synthetic 5w40 like Delvac 1 or Group III 5w40's like Petro Canada, Rotella, or Delo. Shouldn't all of the above yield a slight increase in economy without affecting oil consumption?

 

[Neil Womack]

dirtymudder Dragboat is right. I'm a new Schaeffer's customer. However, I can tell you that the products perform as advertised. I can report from first hand experience that #238 grease is not slung out of farm equipment u-joints (as the old Lithium complex was) saving me from unsheilding (read pain in A*# but needed to insure no one dies by PTO entanglement) and re-greasing on 4 hour intervals. It also stays in the front end loader pivot points without squeezing out. The 267 gear oil 80w-90 has quieted my gear boxes and probably cooled them to. Hard to tell as the weather was cooling anyway. But they do run quieter than before. The 15w-40 motor oil #700 I think has quieted my F-150 on start up. I only have 1k on the oil so far. Ordering is a snap and arrives at your door in a week or so. If you can do the $250.00 minimum you save some money. I understand reluctance to buy $250.00 of an unknown product. So buy a case of 15w-40 motor oil and see if it does what they say. Your only risking around 45 bucks or so. Heck 12 quarts of Mobil 1 would cost you $60.00 plus tax down at the Auto Zone.

 

[Dick in Falls Church]

With 18,000 miles on the engine, you should have no fears about leakage. Synthetic does not attack seals or gaskets!! Synthetic ATF will drop the operating temperature of the fluid anywhere from 20 to 50 degrees F, and should last at least 3 times longer than non-synthetic. Not inexpensive, but a whole lot cheaper than a tranny replacement. You might get some small mileage increase, but the motorhome isn't usually designed with the air of a wind tunnel.

 

[dragboat]

quote:

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Originally posted by Chris: We had a box motorhome when I was a kid and I remember getting 7 mpg with a 24' Dodge with a 413. Father put a spoiler on the rear, not very large across the top, and it netted I think one more mile to the gallon! Big percent increase here!

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I have built two 413's in Winnebagos for separate Race Teams in the past and brought them up from 7 mpg to 12 with proper choice of cam and zero decking the block, removing casting flash in the port runners with mild bowl work and put all else back stock except mufflers and carb jetting. The single best thing that Chevy Rat motor would benefit from is some good headers. Even with the peanut port heads he would gain minimum 30 hp which means the right foot could wear tennis shoes instead of a lead boot,oil temp would go down as well as coolant temp. I have never seen a motor respond to headers like a Big Block Chevy does,stock or modded. They still need a good oil though

 

[dirtymudder]

To all that responded... thanks. I'm new to this site, my wife thinks I'm nuts sitting here for an hour or two at night reading all the info. I've never heard of Scheaffers products before. What is the cost of a quart of oil from Scheaffers?

 

[dirtymudder]

Dragboat... Thanks for the input. Where can a person find a set of stainless headers for this motorhome besides Banks?

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by dirtymudder: To all that responded... thanks. I'm new to this site, my wife thinks I'm nuts sitting here for an hour or two at night reading all the info. I've never heard of Scheaffers products before. What is the cost of a quart of oil from Scheaffers?

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When you buy it in bulk I believe it's under $3 per quart.

 

[SteveD2]

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman: [QBWhen you buy it in bulk I believe it's under $3 per quart.[/QB]

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Is that a loonie and a twoonie, or three greenbacks?

 

[SteveD2]

quote:

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Originally posted by dirtymudder: Dragboat... Thanks for the input. Where can a person find a set of stainless headers for this motorhome besides Banks?

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Banks are probably the only headers designed correctly--equal length, long tube, not too big in diameter that lose low-end hp. Aren't high-temp coated headers better than stainless? Long life and the coating keeps the engine compartment cool and the exhaust gas hot. Ken

 

[dragboat]

quote:

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Originally posted by dirtymudder: Dragboat... Thanks for the input. Where can a person find a set of stainless headers for this motorhome besides Banks?

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There are many types of stainless steel material,many will corrode anyway plus costly as can be! I would use a thermal coated header " HPC preffered" inside and out to keep engine compartment temp down. A truck chassis header of the same series you have will fit. No specialty header needed. If you cannot find a Hedman, Hooker,Sanderson or Thorley brand send me a PM,,I will track a set down. Be sure to send me the chassis model and don't worry if they are not available coated,it can be done elsewhere with the usual lifetime warranty. Don't worry about equal lenght primaries either,they are not nessecary but you do want a smaller primary tube as in no Hooker Super Comps You can build more mid and low torque by adding a crossover tube as well. It will still need some good lubes,I think the Schaefferes is the ticket for you and what you drive To drive it 6k with a expensive synlube in it only to either let it set till next year or drain wayyy early? Nahhhh. That 3 buck oil is a tough one to beat at any price of another oil and thats a fact no one can deny,no one! At least anyone that knows this oil well.

 

[impala_sc]

You may get better results in terms of mileage from putting synth in the tranny and don't forget the differential than in the motor. If it has an external tranny cooler, it should be regulated [include cold-temp bypass]. However, consider the equilon havoline synthetic 5W40 as it's designed for gasoline instead of diesel and costs $3.40/qt and it seems to be a true PAO synthetic [please prove me wrong!] The rear spoiler is a good idea. In this case the spoiler would be downslope <=\ rather than upslope <=/. It really will reduce drag on a big box like your motorhome.

 

[Bror Jace]

dirtymudder, Schaeffer Oil has taken a low-profile promotional route relying on their sales reps to get word of their products around. In general, I disagree with this approach ... but the alternative (competing with Mobil, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Castrol, Chevron, etc ...) would require a staggering amount of money just to get into the game. I can see why they are doing things the way they are. Take a look at their website and the extensive line of specialty products they make: www.schaefferoil.com They've been around for a long, long time but do not bother with the typical retail market. Their synthetic blend motor oils are real PAO blends and not the fake-a-roo stuff most other brands offer. Price? $3 per quart. Gear oils are about double that. --- Bror Jace I agreed with dragboat's recommendations ... but I also like the idea

 

[Bror Jace]

Oops! Forgot to finish. ... I also like the idea of improving the machines aerodynamics ... provided you don't cut-off or redirect air going towards cooling. That should really pay off on the highway.