I've seen three different Ford 300 sixes with the same ticking noises and all had the rocker arms and falcrum seats worn to the point that they would stick the valve open and then throw a pushrod. I hope yours is just dirty oil. Good luck
Best way to flush the "goo" out of an engine...
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Alright. I guess most people here that have responded have used ARX. Maybe I was wrong about this forum.
I've used ARX also before I switched to extended drain Amsoil. It might have felt slightly stronger according to my butt dyno during the rinse phase. I liked it, but I didn't see a whole lot of gunk on my filter. It may be that my engine was pretty clean to begin with.
I would like to flush out my girlfriend's engine, but it's so nasty that I'll do a couple of 3000k drains with a regular SL oil before I do that. I changed the valve cover gasket, and I was scared
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I've used ARX also before I switched to extended drain Amsoil. It might have felt slightly stronger according to my butt dyno during the rinse phase. I liked it, but I didn't see a whole lot of gunk on my filter. It may be that my engine was pretty clean to begin with.
I would like to flush out my girlfriend's engine, but it's so nasty that I'll do a couple of 3000k drains with a regular SL oil before I do that. I changed the valve cover gasket, and I was scared
Other than Auto RX, a mixed fleet (diesel) lube can clean things out over time, a slower, yet very safe method. If it's a sticking lifter yakking at you (SWD6, who's familiar with these engines, suggests otherwise), a treatment with Marvel Mystery Oil can clear that up, something I've seen first hand.
NOT a bandwagon thing with ME.
I say run a double dose of AutoRx. It will slowly, nicely clean the goo out. You could follow up the last rinse phase with a Amsoil engine flush, then a very short OCI. (My prescribed cleaning method on my web site) After all that - then start some 3000 mile OCI's with LubeControl.
I say run a double dose of AutoRx. It will slowly, nicely clean the goo out. You could follow up the last rinse phase with a Amsoil engine flush, then a very short OCI. (My prescribed cleaning method on my web site) After all that - then start some 3000 mile OCI's with LubeControl.
When it comes to colonic irrigation and engine flushing, I say bs. If it aint't broke don't fix it.
My$0.02
My$0.02
Colonic irrigation is for people not cars I think
I found on my truck with 135000 miles I ran DELO 15/40 drained it out after 1000 miles and found the oil to be pretty dirty for only 1000 mi. Then I did the ARX I am in the rince phase and the mpg went up 3 the truck never ran better. By the way I used Super Tech 5/30 during the cleaning phase Chevron Supream 10/30 in there now.
Perhaps Im missing something but it seems like somewhere on these forums it was mentioned that esters were used in the Auto-RX.
Many on these boards have noted that GC is made from esters.
There are different kinds of esters so perhaps we are comparing apples to oranges.
Still, its believable and obvious that esters in oil clean dirty engines and help keep them that way.
Auto-Rx seems expensive and I cant help but wonder whether or not GC with a short drain interval and a full filter change might achieve similar results at a cheaper price.
Im not going to pretend to know the chemistry of the Auto-Rx and some on these boards swear by it yet it seems that $25 per 12 oz. bottle is expensive by any means of measure.
ARX actually suggests staying away from synthetic oil and using dino oil though forum members here might suggest that grade 3 synthetic, PAO, and ester based synthetic oils all have different structures.
The question remains whether PAO and esters are compatible and whether or not a grade 3 syn oil would be fine as a rinse.
Hrmmmm.......
Perhaps a couple of oil changes with GC or another ester based synthetic oil might do as well if used in short drain intervals with frequent filter changes to catch the sludge. Perhaps not.........
Comments?
Happy Motoring All,
Bugshu
Many on these boards have noted that GC is made from esters.
There are different kinds of esters so perhaps we are comparing apples to oranges.
Still, its believable and obvious that esters in oil clean dirty engines and help keep them that way.
Auto-Rx seems expensive and I cant help but wonder whether or not GC with a short drain interval and a full filter change might achieve similar results at a cheaper price.
Im not going to pretend to know the chemistry of the Auto-Rx and some on these boards swear by it yet it seems that $25 per 12 oz. bottle is expensive by any means of measure.
ARX actually suggests staying away from synthetic oil and using dino oil though forum members here might suggest that grade 3 synthetic, PAO, and ester based synthetic oils all have different structures.
The question remains whether PAO and esters are compatible and whether or not a grade 3 syn oil would be fine as a rinse.
Hrmmmm.......
Perhaps a couple of oil changes with GC or another ester based synthetic oil might do as well if used in short drain intervals with frequent filter changes to catch the sludge. Perhaps not.........
Comments?
Happy Motoring All,
Bugshu
Well at $4-5/qt, a "couple of oil changes" with GC is gonna run you somewhere in the $40-50 range. An AutoRX treatment, using dino during the clean and rinse phases, will have a similar cost.
jeff
ps. AutoRX can be had for less than $25/bottle if you order 3 or 4 bottles and get a coupon code.
Mobil1 over a period of several 5K mile intervals will clean out the sludge. As a side note, I recall that these engines are ones for which there was a special top lube kit made up to route the oil around clogged passages to the rocker shaft. Don't know if they still make it but there must have been some inherent problem.
What about Delo?
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Did they go to a rocker arm shaft? My 240 (the parent engine) had the traditional stud/half-ball rocker. This is a tough and highly servicable engine (side covers for lifter replacement etc.) I couldn't kill the thing as a teenager in my 65 ex-Uhaul Econoline (suicide center seat/engine cover).
Now the 170 and 200 sixes had rocker arm shafts ..I also believe that they were solid lift cams (IIRC)
For all the reasons listed I used Auto RX and will use again. It's a cleaner, not a flush. a lot of cleaning takes place in the rinse cycle.
No Bandwagon here, just a happy user.
Hey,
I too have to vouch for Auto-rx. Excellent stuff and what some of the others said, "it works" very true! I like it when products really live up to what they say they do and I think I speak for most consumers that that's what people want. A product that really does what it says!
Since I used ARx my truck has been smoother and very silent at idling and still is to date. I have put about 12K on the truck with 2 synthetic changes and I really bow down to Arx! Like some others, no bandwagon, just a satisfied customer. I still want to get my hands on some LC & FP though,,,,,AR
I too have to vouch for Auto-rx. Excellent stuff and what some of the others said, "it works" very true! I like it when products really live up to what they say they do and I think I speak for most consumers that that's what people want. A product that really does what it says!
Since I used ARx my truck has been smoother and very silent at idling and still is to date. I have put about 12K on the truck with 2 synthetic changes and I really bow down to Arx! Like some others, no bandwagon, just a satisfied customer. I still want to get my hands on some LC & FP though,,,,,AR
It's easy to justify the cost of ARX. Consider the fact you will save some money on not using any synth. ARX + dino = $ of synth. Overall cost is a bit higher because of the the short ocis, not much for the improvments you get. With ARX I used Delvac 1300S 15w-40, but I imagine Motorcraft 5w-30 GII+, GIII would be good for winter. I paid under $20 for ARX, what's the big deal?
Well, being the cheapskate I am here is what I did.
I bought five quarts of Shell Rotella 15w40 truck oil. I was intending to buy the Chevron Delo 400 but the store was out. I figured the Shell would be close enough; I was looking for an oil with a lot of detergent.
My sump is a 6 quart, so I also bought two quarts of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil). I poured in one quart of the MMO before changing the oil (level was down about a quart, so this worked out well). I ran the truck about thirty miles today with the old oil and the MMO.
I then drained the oil and replaced the filter. Darned Fram; no other filters available.
I poured the five quarts of Rotella in there and added the other quart of MMO. The engine is running smoother; no sticky valve on start up. I'll check it again in the morning, but I think this is going to solve my problem. I think it will get cleaner the more I drive it--if I understand the HDMO formula correctly; it's supposed to clean, right? And the MMO in there will certainly clean as well.
I'll run this Rotella/MMO mix until late November or December and switch it out for some Wally's Supertech semi-synthetic 10W30. I got a 5 quart jug of that for less than eight dollars so I'm happy.
Dan
I bought five quarts of Shell Rotella 15w40 truck oil. I was intending to buy the Chevron Delo 400 but the store was out. I figured the Shell would be close enough; I was looking for an oil with a lot of detergent.
My sump is a 6 quart, so I also bought two quarts of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil). I poured in one quart of the MMO before changing the oil (level was down about a quart, so this worked out well). I ran the truck about thirty miles today with the old oil and the MMO.
I then drained the oil and replaced the filter. Darned Fram; no other filters available.
I poured the five quarts of Rotella in there and added the other quart of MMO. The engine is running smoother; no sticky valve on start up. I'll check it again in the morning, but I think this is going to solve my problem. I think it will get cleaner the more I drive it--if I understand the HDMO formula correctly; it's supposed to clean, right? And the MMO in there will certainly clean as well.
I'll run this Rotella/MMO mix until late November or December and switch it out for some Wally's Supertech semi-synthetic 10W30. I got a 5 quart jug of that for less than eight dollars so I'm happy.
Dan
Don't run 15w40 in the winter time if it gets too cold.
Trust me, I blew an oil pump on a 302 V8 doing that.
Also, you could have just bought a $3 can of engine flush and a new filter and threw it in and let the engine idle for 30 minutes to get all the crap out.
Then sap in the new oil and again another filter and you would be good.
Trust me, I blew an oil pump on a 302 V8 doing that.
Also, you could have just bought a $3 can of engine flush and a new filter and threw it in and let the engine idle for 30 minutes to get all the crap out.
Then sap in the new oil and again another filter and you would be good.
Gary Allen: Yes, the top oil kit was for a rocker shaft engine, and as I recall you had to put a fitting through the rocker cover to feed oil to the rocker shaft.
How do you know its decently clean? The rings could be loaded?
$25 just dosen't sound that bad to me? I am a mooch though!!
Yes... I know.
Sometimes though when you clean the crud things break..
Anyhow I don't see how with that minimum amount of miles where you cant do this.
Either run the Shell or go to Delvac or Chevron which are better IMO than the shell, anyhow...
Run these with either the rx or other product changing filters every 500-1000 miles and repeat this 2-3 times should have it clean... I have done this with several cars and friends cars too.
Not with these products but others, but they should work based on everyones opinions here.
If you go heavy solvent I may be tempted to run a 15-40... but hey... If you are more inclined to do it slowly... then the DELOS will take time but on their own they will clean up a lot... BUT STILL no matter how good cleaning an oil is even mine, you can not be assured to get all tthe goop out unless you ADD something to help it out. JMO.
You may try this:
Hey.. where are you?
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