Best Tran/Hydraulic Fluid for 1974 Massey Ferguson 135 Perkins Diesel

diamondjfarmwv

diamondjfarmwv

Joined
Mar 31, 2023
Messages
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I read the discussion "Massey Ferguson 135 - What hydraulic oil/spec?" but am still not clear on what weight fluid to use in my newly acquired '74 MF 135. I just got the manuals on CD and read something about "mineral oil" under the Hydraulics section. I have a '48 Ford 8N and a '68 IH Farmall 140, but am new to Masseys. Thanks.
 
Hyken 052 “Plus” - in my opinion. It’s what I run in all my antique tractors, for the hydraulics.

You’d have to read the manual to see if they require a different transmission oil. Such a gear oil for it. I’m not super familiar with older massey’s.
 
Thanks for the reply. That's good enough for me. BTW. My old tractors are not collectors; it's just been all I could afford down through the years, so I gotta keep 'em running!
 
Any J20C fluid will work for that tractor. I just like the 052 Plus in cold weather. Specifically with loader chatter and ease of shifting.

I believe that tractor also takes tractor hydraulic in the transmission. I did a quick google last night on it.
 
I believe it recommends a 10w30. Not making brand or store recommendations but your local stores should have something similar to the below...key words on the label tractor or hydraulic or10w30 with a minimum of 9.3cst

Cold weather usage will benefit from 10w30. Sae30 could be an option for warmer climates.

If it were mine,I probably wouldnt use the low visc newer utf's that are sae20

MAG 1® TO-4 Torque Fluid SAE 30 - Mag 1

mag1.com mag1.com

www.mobil.com

Mobil Delvac™ Tractor Hydraulic Fluid | Mobil Delvac™

Learn about Mobil Delvac™ Tractor Hydraulic Fluid, engineered with advanced technology to exceed hydraulic fluid requirements.
www.mobil.com www.mobil.com





hillsflatlumber.com

Lubriguard Multitrac 5 Gal. 10W30 Tractor Fluid Hydraulic Oil

Lubriguard Multitrac 5 Gal. 10W30 Tractor Fluid Hydraulic Oil
hillsflatlumber.com hillsflatlumber.com
 
Greasymechtech said:
I believe it recommends a 10w30. Not making brand or store recommendations but your local stores should have something similar to the below...key words on the label tractor or hydraulic or10w30 with a minimum of 9.3cst

Cold weather usage will benefit from 10w30. Sae30 could be an option for warmer climates.

If it were mine,I probably wouldnt use the low visc newer utf's that are sae20

MAG 1® TO-4 Torque Fluid SAE 30 - Mag 1

mag1.com mag1.com

www.mobil.com

Mobil Delvac™ Tractor Hydraulic Fluid | Mobil Delvac™

Learn about Mobil Delvac™ Tractor Hydraulic Fluid, engineered with advanced technology to exceed hydraulic fluid requirements.
www.mobil.com www.mobil.com





hillsflatlumber.com

Lubriguard Multitrac 5 Gal. 10W30 Tractor Fluid Hydraulic Oil

Lubriguard Multitrac 5 Gal. 10W30 Tractor Fluid Hydraulic Oil
hillsflatlumber.com hillsflatlumber.com
Click to expand...

Considering the tractor was first produced in 1964 and shares the same components of the 35 that was made in 1960ish. Means these tractors were designed in the 1950s.

No way does it “require” a 10w30. Really, any J20C will work, as it was originally designed for 303 fluid. Since 303 fluid is now gone (hopefully forever) - you default to J20C.

All the above are J20C. Most UTF’s are in the 10w20 to 10w30 range. Depending on if you go to the high side of the 20 or low side of the 30 range.
 
I didn't say require. I said recommended. So, don't put words in my mouth. And, its for the owner to decide depending on price/usage expectations extra. I am also against the overly thin fluids being pushed. I've seen wear and leakage. For some, its easy to top off as needed. For others, maybe not so much. The OP can research what he needs or wants. Most of the forums just use the 7cst UTF in theirs. I wouldn't use that if it were mine since I'd want a certain HTHS with all fluids.
 
Foxtrot08 said:
Any J20C fluid will work for that tractor. I just like the 052 Plus in cold weather. Specifically with loader chatter and ease of shifting.

I believe that tractor also takes tractor hydraulic in the transmission. I did a quick google last night on it.
Click to expand...
Yea, Foxtrot08, I run all three of these old tractors year-round. They're all in good condition mechanically--especially the MF135--but the older two are rough to look at. I'm nigh 65, and my late Dad always said, "Son. If I've got some time, I'd rather pull maintenance than wash and wax." This way of thinkin has paid off for me all these years. I've got an old '70s diesel Case 380 loader/hoe, an '01 F350 diesel, an '06 F250 diesel, and an '03 F150 5.4: none of them look much good, but boy do they run good.
 
Greasymechtech said:
I believe it recommends a 10w30. Not making brand or store recommendations but your local stores should have something similar to the below...key words on the label tractor or hydraulic or10w30 with a minimum of 9.3cst

Cold weather usage will benefit from 10w30. Sae30 could be an option for warmer climates.

If it were mine,I probably wouldnt use the low visc newer utf's that are sae20

MAG 1® TO-4 Torque Fluid SAE 30 - Mag 1

mag1.com mag1.com

www.mobil.com

Mobil Delvac™ Tractor Hydraulic Fluid | Mobil Delvac™

Learn about Mobil Delvac™ Tractor Hydraulic Fluid, engineered with advanced technology to exceed hydraulic fluid requirements.
www.mobil.com www.mobil.com





hillsflatlumber.com

Lubriguard Multitrac 5 Gal. 10W30 Tractor Fluid Hydraulic Oil

Lubriguard Multitrac 5 Gal. 10W30 Tractor Fluid Hydraulic Oil
hillsflatlumber.com hillsflatlumber.com
Click to expand...
Thanks, Greasy. The original manual DOES rec 10w30. But it says "mineral." Wonder what that means? Surely not actual mineral oil. I do run in cold weather (gets 0 or below here in west-central WV) and hot (90s are common in late July/early Aug). Thank you for all the websites, brother.
 
Foxtrot08 said:
Considering the tractor was first produced in 1964 and shares the same components of the 35 that was made in 1960ish. Means these tractors were designed in the 1950s.

No way does it “require” a 10w30. Really, any J20C will work, as it was originally designed for 303 fluid. Since 303 fluid is now gone (hopefully forever) - you default to J20C.

All the above are J20C. Most UTF’s are in the 10w20 to 10w30 range. Depending on if you go to the high side of the 20 or low side of the 30 range.
Click to expand...
Ok, Fox. That's all good to know. Thanks.
 
Fellers. I got another problem, and if I'm wrong to post this non-oil/fluids question just let me know and I'll take it to a Massey general tractor forum. Ya'll seem more knowledgeable than me so here goes. Just noticed when the MF135 diesel is running (and for a while after I shut her down) I'm getting a pretty steady drip drip from the diesel injection pump at the end facing the back, right where the tubing from the filter comes back in. Maybe tighten the fittings, or is there some gaskets/o-rings that can be replaced/ Hope I don't need a new injection pump. Thanks.
 
diamondjfarmwv said:
Thanks, Greasy. The original manual DOES rec 10w30. But it says "mineral." Wonder what that means? Surely not actual mineral oil. I do run in cold weather (gets 0 or below here in west-central WV) and hot (90s are common in late July/early Aug). Thank you for all the websites, brother.
Click to expand...
There weren't too many synthetics back then, if any and rarely available.
Mineral means conventional base oils... and nothing to worry or even think about anymore.

You are not buying a base oil. You are buying a formulated recipe lubricant with various/numerous spec's listed.

For leaks, you tighten/snug just a little bit. If that doesn't help, you seek someone with more experience with the product. Maybe there is a seal/gasket or maybe the component is bad.
 
Greasymechtech said:
There weren't too many synthetics back then, if any and rarely available.
Mineral means conventional base oils... and nothing to worry or even think about anymore.

You are not buying a base oil. You are buying a formulated recipe lubricant with various/numerous spec's listed.

For leaks, you tighten/snug just a little bit. If that doesn't help, you seek someone with more experience with the product. Maybe there is a seal/gasket or maybe the component is bad.
Click to expand...
Got it. Maybe sort of like the 30w Non-detergent motor oil I use in my '68 Farmall 140 gas? Thanks. I'm a learnin something new bout every day thanks to fellers that know more than me. Preciate you, brother.
 
Greasymechtech said:
I didn't say require. I said recommended. So, don't put words in my mouth. And, its for the owner to decide depending on price/usage expectations extra. I am also against the overly thin fluids being pushed. I've seen wear and leakage. For some, its easy to top off as needed. For others, maybe not so much. The OP can research what he needs or wants. Most of the forums just use the 7cst UTF in theirs. I wouldn't use that if it were mine since I'd want a certain HTHS with all fluids.
Click to expand...


If an antique tractor gets into the HTHS range for an oil, meaning 300f or greater, it’s probably on fire. Assuming it’s not on fire, you’re going quickly towards other failures. Such as seals and gaskets.

None of my antiques (older than OP’s) run even remotely that hot. Even my newer Deere 333D series skid loader will shut off if hydraulic temps climb above 240F.

I don’t understand your comment about “overly thin fluids being pushed.” As any UTF that is J20C will have a very similar range, if anything a thinner fluid will have better cold flow. Which, a lot of tractors struggle with in the cold. Thus, a lot of loader chatter and other hydraulic chatter.
 
diamondjfarmwv said:
Got it. Maybe sort of like the 30w Non-detergent motor oil I use in my '68 Farmall 140 gas? Thanks. I'm a learnin something new bout every day thanks to fellers that know more than me. Preciate you, brother.
Click to expand...

Why do you run Non detergent in a 1968 gasoline engine?
 
So, in your experience, fans radiators coolant and thermostats never fail. And, its impossible to cause an overheat.
Some of us don't live in a perfect world. I plan for all possible failures and visc is an easy bandaid.

Neighbors fan on his lawn tractor split in two and failed. He was lucky enough to shut it down before meltdown(or hopefully). And, it was filled with a thick enough synth oil where the temporary high temps shouldn't be an issue(hoping it wasn't failed long ago). I've seen identical failures cause rod knock and eventually engine failure. Fan on order and will end up changing oil/filter after repair for filter inspection. Didn't notice oil sparkles on the dipstick which is a good sign.

I personally don't care what anyone does or doesn't. When and if you have a failure, its on you. I don't recommend using a 7cst UTF if the recommended fluid is 11cst. And, there is no shortage of said fluids, and as such, no need to substitute anything from the original recommendations.
 
Greasymechtech said:
So, in your experience, fans radiators coolant and thermostats never fail. And, its impossible to cause an overheat.
Some of us don't live in a perfect world. I plan for all possible failures and visc is an easy bandaid.

Neighbors fan on his lawn tractor split in two and failed. He was lucky enough to shut it down before meltdown(or hopefully). And, it was filled with a thick enough synth oil where the temporary high temps shouldn't be an issue(hoping it wasn't failed long ago). I've seen identical failures cause rod knock and eventually engine failure. Fan on order and will end up changing oil/filter after repair for filter inspection. Didn't notice oil sparkles on the dipstick which is a good sign.

I personally don't care what anyone does or doesn't. When and if you have a failure, its on you. I don't recommend using a 7cst UTF if the recommended fluid is 11cst. And, there is no shortage of said fluids, and as such, no need to substitute anything from the original recommendations.
Click to expand...

I don’t think you’re understanding the piece of equipment’s era. Nor are you understanding the basics of how this fluid works on that piece of equipment.

It’s not about planning to fail. But if it’s transmission reached 300F, it would be significantly passed the point of no return.

These units were designed to run ~80-100f (or less, depending on the size of the sump) above ambient temperature. If it started to climb or overheat, you have a severe mechanical issue already that is causing it. If you reached consistently over 200f, there would be mechanical issues with this era machine.
 
I do understand the equipment. And, I replaced plenty of hydraulic pumps that overheated without setting off fluid temp alarms, vibration alarms,.... whether PTO driven or electric motor driven.

What info I don't have is the condition of the equipment as it is not in front of me.

Do we know that it doesn't have a severe mechanical issue or failing pump? Did anyone post the running temps? Is the sump currently full and has been for the last ~50 years? Is it in need of a rebuild? We just don't know.

Please, save your psychic powers for other endeavors. I, sadly, am not psychic. But, I would use the 10w30 with enough test runtime before merging it with the fleets 20 grade 20utf.
 
Greasymechtech said:
I do understand the equipment. And, I replaced plenty of hydraulic pumps that overheated without setting off fluid temp alarms, vibration alarms,.... whether PTO driven or electric motor driven.

What info I don't have is the condition of the equipment as it is not in front of me.

Do we know that it doesn't have a severe mechanical issue or failing pump? Did anyone post the running temps? Is the sump currently full and has been for the last ~50 years? Is it in need of a rebuild? We just don't know.

Please, save your psychic powers for other endeavors. I, sadly, am not psychic. But, I would use the 10w30 with enough test runtime before merging it with the fleets 20 grade 20utf.
Click to expand...

Where are you pulling this out of?

He asked for the spec. Which I posted - j20c.

He never said it had a failure. You are now making up, that it had a failure. And trying to justify your HTHS comment. Which, doesn’t matter, as I stated because it would be passed catastrophic.

Also your comments show you have no idea about this era equipment. I own a number of tractors even older than OP’s and I’ve restored them as well.

Also your comments about 10w30 are still killing me. The only product I recommended has a 100c of 9.8 cst. And a VI of 134. So where you’re making up this “fleet oil” comments again, is out of thin air. A lot of how UTF’s morphed from 10w20’s to 10w30’s over the years is simply better base oils with better VI’s. Going from Group I’s to Group II’s and III’s.
 
diamondjfarmwv said:
Fellers. I got another problem, and if I'm wrong to post this non-oil/fluids question just let me know and I'll take it to a Massey general tractor forum. Ya'll seem more knowledgeable than me so here goes. Just noticed when the MF135 diesel is running (and for a while after I shut her down) I'm getting a pretty steady drip drip from the diesel injection pump at the end facing the back, right where the tubing from the filter comes back in. Maybe tighten the fittings, or is there some gaskets/o-rings that can be replaced/ Hope I don't need a new injection pump. Thanks.
Click to expand...
There are sleeves/ferrules that are at the end of the lines under the nuts. If snugging them up doesn't stop the leak, you may want to check those out. They are available from most internet parts houses and possibly your local NAPA or supply house.

Also, I'm assuming this doesnt have a loader with its own separate hydraulic reservoir, so that's where the UTF suggestions come in up above. Please clarify if you were thinking of a different system other than the transmission/hydro sump.
 
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