Best top-off oil...

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'Stralia
Posited a long long time ago on here that an SAE30, properly additised (AW, detergents), S rated, but not generally with FMs, VIIs, and PPDs would make a pretty benign "top up" oil if you wanted a one top off meets all spec. At the time, the two that I had in mind were Delo 500 SAE 30 (used in Hadfield's Merlin engined '55 Chev, and also for an entire change in my E30), or Delvac 1630 (alas, unavailable in less than 205L quantities). I still reckon that an SAE30 isn't a bad idea for a top-off oil, but bought 2.5L of this stuff a few weeks ago. Added to a 20, or ILSAC 30 heading out of grade at the end of an OCI, it will help thicken it up. Can't overly thicken a 40, or an A3/B4 (30 or 40), as it's already at the HTHS minimum for those grades. And it's red...just in case you forgot that you topped up.
 
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Southeast Texas
I agree. I know some here get panicky about straight weights, but the thought is sound. Many 5-30's shear down to a 5-20 late in the change interval, and when a top off is needed, a 30 would stabilize and boost the viscosity right back up, more so then adding another 5-30.
 
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SANTOS, BR
It will boost the 100C viscosity a little but will also decrease the cold crank ability. Would make a sheared 5w20 into a 10w25, maybe. A good top off for the summer, IMO.
 
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Central NY
I was running 1 quart of SAE30 in the Cherokee. Not sure what the mixtures would be now Started with: 1X SAE30 PYB 1X 10w-30 PYB 4X 5w-30 PYB Makeup Oil (it's leaking like a sieve for some reason) - 1/2 quart of MMO (didn't help with chatter) - Random 1/2 quart of supertech 10w-40 Makeup oil on the Cherokee is whatever I have laying around. At some point I'll run out of oil. Then it'll either be PYB or Supertech
 
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North America
Not bad, but in the interest of simplification just use whatever is in there, or the next bottle from your stash. Easier that way.
 
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13,118
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Indiana
I found some API SA oil in my neighbors garage when I was there borrowing some tools. He wasn't home or else I would have shared some info with him. I know he uses some Kendall 10w30 diesel synthetic blend in basically everything so I assume this was just a top off oil. His DD has well over 250,000. Who really knows if its good or not. If I was a quart low and API SA was all I had, I would use it without hesitation. Changing the oil wouldn't be on my ASAP list, but it would get changed within the 1000 miles. I wouldnt make a habit of it nor do I ever plan on being in this situation so this is all just theoretical mumbling.. about like 99% of my BITOG posts. smile
 
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5,339
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Southeast Texas
Yes I would think even a SA oil, if mixed into high additized HDEO's, would be OK, since the higher additive levels would compensate some. Clearly, not "optimal" but would get you by.
 
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Florida
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I found some API SA oil in my neighbors garage when I was there borrowing some tools. He wasn't home or else I would have shared some info with him.
Maybe he uses it in an air compressor..?
 

Shannow

Thread starter
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43,676
Location
'Stralia
Originally Posted By: Pontual
It will boost the 100C viscosity a little but will also decrease the cold crank ability. Would make a sheared 5w20 into a 10w25, maybe. A good top off for the summer, IMO.
Agreed, but the Cold Crank is probably not that flash at that point anyway. Took some, and mixed it equal parts with a 5W30 (virgin Magnatec Economy), and after two days in the freezer, -20C(ish) cylindrical containers, the "blend" flows about the same as a 10W30 semisynth in my stash... Will have to wait a while and see what aged 5W30 looks like.
 
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SANTOS, BR
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Pontual
It will boost the 100C viscosity a little but will also decrease the cold crank ability. Would make a sheared 5w20 into a 10w25, maybe. A good top off for the summer, IMO.
Agreed, but the Cold Crank is probably not that flash at that point anyway. Took some, and mixed it equal parts with a 5W30 (virgin Magnatec Economy), and after two days in the freezer, -20C(ish) cylindrical containers, the "blend" flows about the same as a 10W30 semisynth in my stash... Will have to wait a while and see what aged 5W30 looks like.
And how it's doing?
 

Shannow

Thread starter
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43,676
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'Stralia
They've been in the freezer for ages Aged 5W30/SAE30 blend does better than the 10W30 semisynth after a month without moving them at -20C. The 10W30 does OK if moved every couple of days, but after a month must have wax formation.
 
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3,379
Location
BC, Canada
When you look at the purity of a group II base oil, one must think the days of the master blender must be numbered. When the ship arrives in Singapore, the crew is redundant. Bring on 5W16. A base oil, an additive system and a HTHS like a high density mono-grade.
 

SR5

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Down Under
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
Early in the OCI, whatever you used for the change. Late in the OCI, whatever is handy.
Yes, that's exactly what I do.
 
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SunnySouthFlorida
The Nexgen worked well (re: my post above)... ...after finding a nice clearance-sale of four 5-qt jugs of PPPP, the next 6 fills will be a 4:1 frankenbrew of 5w-30 PPPP and 5w-20 PPPP to be topped off with same.
 
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Location
Massachusetts
Originally Posted By: SilverC6
Late in the OCI, whatever is handy.
How about an additive that cleans things up. Cd2 has a detergent, Rislone, MMO, Gumout there are many others. My new philosophy is to run racing oil then add a detergent at the end of the oci to clean things up. Then you don't have detergents competing with anti wear the whole time, but only for a short time.
 
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1,256
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Oregon
Originally Posted By: turtlevette
How about an additive that cleans things up. Cd2 has a detergent, Rislone, MMO, Gumout there are many others. My new philosophy is to run racing oil then add a detergent at the end of the oci to clean things up. Then you don't have detergents competing with anti wear the whole time, but only for a short time.
Mobil1 Racing 0w-30 has 3100 ppm calcium, presumably thats a the acid fighter detergent, and the 118 ppm boron also acts as a mild detergent and acid reducer. (A lot of street oils run about 2200 ppm calcium by comparison.) It does make sense to run some cleaner thru there in the end though. Molakule's old 'molablend' or 'molabrew', (3 parts Schaeffer #132 to 1 part LC20) might be pretty good preparing for the next oil change a few thousand miles ahead of time for cleaning. If acid is suspected as a problem, LiquiMoly makes a TBN Booster product or Motor Saver too. Since additives are broken apart some toward the end of an OCI, makes sense to use a cleaner/booster of some kind.
 
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