Best Time to switch to HM?

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Quick question from y'all, pushing 70,000 miles on my truck, but not sure if it's time to switch to a high mileage or continue with "reg" M1. I guess my questions are the following. Also, I guess some of these questions would possibly be answered better after getting my UOA back, but I will post that information when I receive it.

1. Man recommends 5W-30 or 10W-30, been using M1 5W-30, wondering if a 10W-30 might suit my needs better as I live in south Texas where it is brutally hot most of the year, and concerned about this oil thinning out of grade over ext OCI's.

2. Whether I switch to a HM or EP (which I found interestingly seemed to maintain it's viscosity well in some of posted UOA's) Should I make that switch to a HM or just go to the EP line or just make the jump over to the M1 T&SUV formula? Could I mix a quart of EP or HM into some of the regular M1 to take advantage of a "boosted" add pack?

3. On the subject of mixing, would it be ok to mix 10W-30 and 5W-30 for plops and giggles, will you end up with a hyb. weight, so to speak?

Thanks in advance, again, as soon as i see my results for my UOA, i'll get them up.
 
If you have been using a top-shelf synthetic like Mobil 1 5W-30 for the life of the engine you will probably never need a high-mileage oil. There will be nothing to fix.

That being said, the M1 10W-30 High Mileage oil is a thicker 30 weight oil with a more robust additive package. This might be just the ticket for your south Texas weather.
 
My local China Mart has 5 quart jugs of both Mobil 1 SUV 5w-30 and Mobil 1 10w-30 HM for $19.xx So guess who walked out with one of each.

If my memory severs me correctly I remember posters here stating that the Mobil 1 SUV oil is fairly similar to Mobil 1 EP 5w-30. If it doesn't get chilly in your next of the woods just run the Mobil 1 10-30 HM. Mobil 1 EP at my local china mart doesn't come in 5 quart jug. Hey if China Mart had stocked M1 0w-30 5 quart jug, nothing in stock of any size, I would of preferred to mix that with M1 HM 10-30.

Since we have chilly tmep here I was planning on mixing 5w-30 SUV with 10w-30 Mobil 1 HM to drop the viscosity down a bit for easier cold flow.

None of the 5w-30 HM oil have an energy conservation rating that I know of. They are all a tad thicker than non-HM oil FWIW. Hey if China Mart would carry a 5 quart jug of MaxLive 5w-30 Full Syn for $19.xx I would of walked out with that instead.

I'm running Auto-Rx on 3 of my rigs now. Just picked up rig #4 a 98 Civic with 109k miles so I though I'd try Mobil 1 10w-30 HM for the supposed "great clean" up it's supposed to provide, however I'm a bit reluctant to run it full strength in the winter since it's tad thicker.

So my plan was to thin it a bit with Mobil 1 SUV 5-30. I looked at the product data sheet on the Mobil website to and tormented myself with all the data and figured this was the best option hat hand.

I'm always looking for the best dollars cost value.
 
Welp, I bought this truck used with about 40,000 miles on it and used Cast GTX for the first couple OCI's then switched to M1. As far as oil consumption, I don't believe so, of course the only way I check is by looking at my dipstick (probably like a dipstick) and it never seems to read low, so I would assume not much if any at all. (knocking on wood)

As I mentioned before I just thought about going to step up for the heat down here on the weight grade, and thought about either going totally to all HM or EP just for the extra additives it seems to have in them. I have kind of liked the VOA's and some of the UOA's i've seen. With that being said..I have also thought about just doing like half and half even if i do the step up. again, your thoughts are appreciated.
 
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Welp, I bought this truck used with about 40,000 miles on it and used Cast GTX for the first couple OCI's then switched to M1. As far as oil consumption, I don't believe so, of course the only way I check is by looking at my dipstick (probably like a dipstick) and it never seems to read low, so I would assume not much if any at all. (knocking on wood)

As I mentioned before I just thought about going to step up for the heat down here on the weight grade, and thought about either going totally to all HM or EP just for the extra additives it seems to have in them. I have kind of liked the VOA's and some of the UOA's i've seen. With that being said..I have also thought about just doing like half and half even if i do the step up. again, your thoughts are appreciated.




OH yeah, so I don't really know what was used before I bought it, I also think that it was Pennzoil in it when i bought it from the dealer.

if it helps, my driving habits are very conservative since i got this truck, i don't bust it's balls and only get after it when i have to. thanks again
 
I was browsing all the specs on it as well at wally world, AA, O'Reill's, Autozone..etc...I don't remember if the 5W-30 HM had the energy conservation tag on it or not, I do believe the EP did for that 5W-30 weight. Well, I might just grab a couple quarts of the 10W-30 EP or HM and mix it with the one to 1.5 quarts of reg M1 that I have left from the previous change in a 5 qt jug, yeah I am loving that wally world has dropped the prices on their 5 quart jugs of M1. My truck only takes like 3.5 quarts so I always have some left.
 
Last spring I bought a 2000 motorhome with only 9700 miles on it. Running Maxlife Synthetic in it and will continue to. Anytime is a good time to switch to high mileage oil because it's not so much meant for high mileage as it's marketed for high mileage. It's usually more robust oil than it's starburst, "energy conserving" cousins.
 
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Stick with the regular M1 and forget the HM oil.




Pretty much agree - except for the choice of M-1. If you don't have any engine issues, then don't try to fix anything that doesn't need repair.

Stay with your run of synthetics ... preferably a SOPUS, Schaeffer or Amsoil product.
 
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Stick with the regular M1 and forget the HM oil.




Pretty much agree - except for the choice of M-1. If you don't have any engine issues, then don't try to fix anything that doesn't need repair.

Stay with your run of synthetics ... preferably a SOPUS, Schaeffer or Amsoil product.




He's running M1 now, so just leave it the way it is. If they wanted to switch to say Amsoil that's fine.
 
Welp, this is whate i decided to do after browing through a lot of information here and at the manuf. site, I kinda liked how mobil 1 EP read on some UOA's that i've seen. so i picked up a quart that in 5W-30, and two more reg M1 5W-30. I had the approx one qt remaining on M1 5W-30 from the previous oil change that is still virgin, and I mixed them together. I was still just a little shy on going to the 10W-30 tho I think down here in heat of texas most of the year it would probably do me just fine. I know that the EP additives will be diluted from the regular M1 it is mixed with, however I am just curious to see how it works and will try and compare it to the UOA I get from this current OCI. Thanks again.
 
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