Best sys oil

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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
You'll get lots of opinions and no facts. I'd stick to Mobil 1 0W40. It worked for you in the past there's no reason it isn't going to work for you now.


Redline is better and that is a fact, from the UOAs and VOAs compared to Mobil 1.

2nd is Redline is Esters while M1 EP and O-w40 is PAO
 
Originally Posted By: 285south
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
You'll get lots of opinions and no facts. I'd stick to Mobil 1 0W40. It worked for you in the past there's no reason it isn't going to work for you now.


Redline is better and that is a fact, from the UOAs and VOAs compared to Mobil 1.

2nd is Redline is Esters while M1 EP and O-w40 is PAO


That is your opinion [a fact to you] based on a few UOA's you read. A UOA is a very small part of the picture. Another interesting thing about UOA's is their accuracy, they often leave a lot to the imagination. We discussed this a few months ago when three UOA's for the identical oil were placed side by side. Show me a string of engine tear downs proving an oil to be constantly superior and I'm all ears.

BTW this isn't about M1 vs. Redline or any oil for that matter. Until then my comments still stand, and in re-reading this thread I'm in good company.

Show me a member count of those members thinking a $30 UOA determines which oil did best vs. an actual engine tear down, inspection, and measurements.
 
Best explanation here that I have seen is to go to WM into the oil section. Pick synthetic or dino depending on what you want.. close your eyes and just grab one. That variety will work for you assuming you grabbed the correct weight. Both your cars have spec'd manufacture oil requirements so I would go by that as well.

My .02.. Stick with 0w40 for the beetle. Its a euro application.. Seems readily available and decently priced. In the ford, i would run MC 5w 20. Its slightly cheaper than PP at WM (M1 being $25.xx IIRC) and is an exceptional oil that will work well for your car. I wouldn't run a 40 weight oil in this either..
 
Since you made the statement, please explain why ester is better than PAO in a PCMO. I do have a minor in chemistry so you can get a bit technical if you wish.

Originally Posted By: 285south
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
You'll get lots of opinions and no facts. I'd stick to Mobil 1 0W40. It worked for you in the past there's no reason it isn't going to work for you now.

Redline is better and that is a fact, from the UOAs and VOAs compared to Mobil 1.

2nd is Redline is Esters while M1 EP and O-w40 is PAO
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Since you made the statement, please explain why ester is better than PAO in a PCMO. I do have a minor in chemistry so you can get a bit technical if you wish.

Originally Posted By: 285south
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
You'll get lots of opinions and no facts. I'd stick to Mobil 1 0W40. It worked for you in the past there's no reason it isn't going to work for you now.

Redline is better and that is a fact, from the UOAs and VOAs compared to Mobil 1.

2nd is Redline is Esters while M1 EP and O-w40 is PAO


It's polar.

That's all I got.
Oh. Better additive solubility.
Op

Best is tough to qualify. I personally like redline oils the best. Their gear oil is all I will buy and use no matter what the cost.
But best is relative. Best for the dollar,best overall. Know what I'm saying.

Best bang for the buck oil is m1 0w-40,especially stateside. The fact it's got a ton of builder approvals makes it own case,the price makes it a no brainer.
 
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The best oil is the one that has the prettiest oil bottle.


Seriously though, how many of these threads do we really need? How many time do I have to repeat myself that dino is the best...?
grin.gif



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Originally Posted By: CourierDriver
I miss the $9.95 oil and filter change back in the day, the 70s when Kmart did oil changes, never a problem,,,wow,,9.95,,,,lets turn back the clock.Now I use pzoil, 5w30 regular, no different in engine sounds at 20 degrees or 10 degrees,,use the plain jane Pennzoil. 36 bucks now for the oil change,


How much did you make back in the '70s? Personally, I do not want that clock turned back that far. In the era you refer to, I was making $900 a month, and thought I was doing pretty d@mned good.
 
Originally Posted By: 285south
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
You'll get lots of opinions and no facts. I'd stick to Mobil 1 0W40. It worked for you in the past there's no reason it isn't going to work for you now.



2nd is Redline is Esters while M1 EP and O-w40 is PAO


Mobil 1 based on PAO? Where do you get that idea. Mobil 1 has PAO based additives but that may be all. It's a very good line of products but it may only be synthetic by stretching the definition a bit.
 
Then Chevron is left out of the discussion because of lousy retail marketing you've got to know that there are a lot of people out their choosing their oil based on everything except the actual quality of the oil in the bottle.
 
There is probably nothing better for your VW engine than M1 0W-40.
The VW has the 2.slow?
You could probably use any 5W-30 with good results.
The Ford will call for a 5W-20.
Either grade of M1 as recommended by the manufacturer should do fine in these two cars.
Are the better oils?
The most honest answer would be a solid maybe.
You won't go wrong with M1.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: 285south
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
You'll get lots of opinions and no facts. I'd stick to Mobil 1 0W40. It worked for you in the past there's no reason it isn't going to work for you now.


Redline is better and that is a fact, from the UOAs and VOAs compared to Mobil 1.

2nd is Redline is Esters while M1 EP and O-w40 is PAO


That is your opinion [a fact to you] based on a few UOA's you read. A UOA is a very small part of the picture. Another interesting thing about UOA's is their accuracy, they often leave a lot to the imagination. We discussed this a few months ago when three UOA's for the identical oil were placed side by side. Show me a string of engine tear downs proving an oil to be constantly superior and I'm all ears.

BTW this isn't about M1 vs. Redline or any oil for that matter. Until then my comments still stand, and in re-reading this thread I'm in good company.

Show me a member count of those members thinking a $30 UOA determines which oil did best vs. an actual engine tear down, inspection, and measurements.



Exactly.


Find 2 exact engines built exactly the same with each part weighed and measured.
Now run these 2 engines identically with the 2 oils in question then measure wear via scale and micrometer and post the results.
I've done many Google/Bing/Yahoo searches and I cannot find such a test anywhere.
I'm not saying it hasn't been done but it seems the results if any such testing has had the results kept from the public internet.
And I'm not a mobil fan at all but they certainly make a quality lubricant that more than adequate for any engine built today.
Is mobil my first pick. No. I like Amsoil and redline but do I need to pay more for these products given how I operate my vehicles. Absolutely not.
Given that oem's certify lubricants it's just as simple as finding a certified product in whatever brand and using it.
I read once that Porsche claimed any oil certified for their engines is equal to another certified lubricant. The important word here is certified,not suitable for.
So if Porsche thinks this way who am I to question it. They know their engines and I'm pretty sure they know the oils they've certified for use,unless one can just call them up and say "hey,I've got this oil I made,can you send me your certification paperwork please"
Pretty sure to get an oem certification there are some protocols that are followed,and my guess is there is either in house testing of the lubricant of some form of independent testing but either way it's tested and has to get approved.
So we've got it easy. Find the approved lubricant and run it as long as the oem says. They've done the hard part,we got it easy.
 
Any info on what precision Auto tune uses for their Bulk Syn 0w 20 oil? I called and asked them but the techs had no idea.. They clam its all the same . I tend to differ and have had various results with many diff syns in my civic.I have my own to use but curious.. That bulk syn could be a blend or a weak synthetic with a poor add pack.
 
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Jerry: Just save yourself ALOT of Headache and stick with M1 0W-40.
It is an outstanding performing oil--->Many UOA have proven this over the years.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
Best oil ?



Registered: 05/06/04

Quote:
Best sys oil



???
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Pablo should know after some 46000+ posts.

If he is shrugging his shoulders at this then there is a clue here.
 
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