Dear all,
I have been cycling more than 10 years, though last 7 years it was really regular. We all know that to buy a really high-quality road bike we should invest an amount of $2000 or more than that. But, it's not always easy for everybody to spend such an amount at a sudden if they want.
With all of my experiences (I have used more than 100 road bikes as trial in the mean time as I have a local bicycle repairing shop), I have made a few choices which are really affordable for all of our people. I included road bikes priced below $200 to maximum $1000.
I tried my best for the sake of people who find it hard to spend much. I know, still, there may be so many drawbacks here in my analyses. Can you please help with your valuable opinion and suggestions to upgrade the issues and find the best road bikes under 1000 dollars here in http://roadbikesly.com ?
I'm sorry if I break the rules of this forum unintentionally. I tried for a benevolent purpose.
Best Road Bikes Under 1000 Dollars
- Thread starter Alex_Wills
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Everybody's best is different.
I looked at a Specialized Roubaix but settled on a Sirrus - I'm more interested in a comfortable compromise to pedal about than a drop-bar racer.
AZjeff
$50 Site Donor 2023
Respectfully you might want to have someone appropriate proofread your site for grammar. It reads like a translation in places.
Thanks!
Seems like there should be a lot more choices for a quality road bike under $1,000. Nothing from Trek, Raleigh, GT, Cannondale, etc.?
I had wonderful results with an inexpensive Raleigh Sport, 21 speed road bike purchased new at a local bike shop ($450) in 2006. Other than an occasional chain cleaning and lube a couple times per year, and fixing flat, the bike had zero maintenance costs over 8 yrs/10,000 miles. Same chain, same Shimano Sora shifters/brakes, same cassette/sprocket, etc. 100% original except for the tires. Not a single tune up or shop service. I just excercised on it 2-3X per week, 10-15 mile trips. Such a bike is no longer made for anywhere near $500. They now cost around $700+...even for a big old fat, heavy, and base line Raleigh, which has since been bought out by another maker.
I don't feel $750 is "cheap" and certainly not $1,000. Because I couldn't find a new road bike in the $500 range, I went out and bought a used GT4 16 speed for $295. The GT series 4 was $700+ new and was used only a couple times. Very nice feel and response even on the cheaper Shimano Sora stuff, identical to what was on my Raleigh. Much lighter frame/wheels than my old Raleigh. There's nothing in your post about the level of quality for $1,000. I'd want the next level up from "Sora" if I'm spending $800-$1,000. I can't imagine that a $2,000 bike would have given that much more satisfaction or lifetime than my old $450 Raleigh. I'd buy that same bike new today for $450 if anyone sold it.
Looks to me like you're favoring specific brands over others. For the most part the bikes in the $700-$1,000 range are somewhat comparable to amateurs like me. I really like my Raleigh because it had an adjustable/pivoting stem for an extra 2-3" height for less strain on my back. So much comes down to age, weight, use, etc. When I bought my Raleigh at 220 lbs, a lighter bike was meaningless to me.
As long as the bike fits, get basic quality in the price range you can afford. And there's nothing wrong with a nearly new, used bike at half price, even from a bike dealer. My local shop never had any trade-ins when I showed up or called. So I finally went out and just bought one via Craig's List. Plenty of decent bikes to choose from. I have 6 months on my GT series 4 road bike and have learned to really like. Most any bike takes a little while to get used to. I tried my brother's 21 Speed Univega mountain bike for a year (free) and just gave up on it for anything but short trips. Very unstable handle bars and not very comfortable with the 3" longer arm reach vs. a road bike. I guess that's why it's a mountain/dirt bike.
My road bikes had simple plastic/fabric stirrups that you slip into. For recreational biking no need for locking in with clamps/special shoes. And if an amateur sluggo like me got 8 years on a cheapo Raleigh doing zero maintenance, why do you need more? I even tried to rebuild the cassettes/sprockets myself when I found out that between parts and tools I'd be looking at $200. Forget that. I paid $295 for a nearly new bike needing nothing. Not a fan of the carbon front fork even if it is lighter and more responsive. I'd prefer the durability of aluminum. For someone actually doing racing and competitions I could say why "just a bike" wouldn't appeal to them. I'd add the GT series 4 to your list.
Originally Posted By: zoli
Great homepage - thx for sharing it!
My proposal: Merida Ride 100; comfortable for beginners and older guys. This is my current choice.
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Saved for future reference.
Originally Posted By: Olas
Everybody's best is different.
I looked at a Specialized Roubaix but settled on a Sirrus - I'm more interested in a comfortable compromise to pedal about than a drop-bar racer.
Originally Posted By: AZjeff
Respectfully you might want to have someone appropriate proofread your site for grammar. It reads like a translation in places.
Originally Posted By: dkryan
Thanks!
Originally Posted By: 69GTX
Seems like there should be a lot more choices for a quality road bike under $1,000. Nothing from Trek, Raleigh, GT, Cannondale, etc.?
I had wonderful results with an inexpensive Raleigh Sport, 21 speed road bike purchased new at a local bike shop ($450) in 2006. Other than an occasional chain cleaning and lube a couple times per year, and fixing flat, the bike had zero maintenance costs over 8 yrs/10,000 miles. Same chain, same Shimano Sora shifters/brakes, same cassette/sprocket, etc. 100% original except for the tires. Not a single tune up or shop service. I just excercised on it 2-3X per week, 10-15 mile trips. Such a bike is no longer made for anywhere near $500. They now cost around $700+...even for a big old fat, heavy, and base line Raleigh, which has since been bought out by another maker.
I don't feel $750 is "cheap" and certainly not $1,000. Because I couldn't find a new road bike in the $500 range, I went out and bought a used GT4 16 speed for $295. The GT series 4 was $700+ new and was used only a couple times. Very nice feel and response even on the cheaper Shimano Sora stuff, identical to what was on my Raleigh. Much lighter frame/wheels than my old Raleigh. There's nothing in your post about the level of quality for $1,000. I'd want the next level up from "Sora" if I'm spending $800-$1,000. I can't imagine that a $2,000 bike would have given that much more satisfaction or lifetime than my old $450 Raleigh. I'd buy that same bike new today for $450 if anyone sold it.
Looks to me like you're favoring specific brands over others. For the most part the bikes in the $700-$1,000 range are somewhat comparable to amateurs like me. I really like my Raleigh because it had an adjustable/pivoting stem for an extra 2-3" height for less strain on my back. So much comes down to age, weight, use, etc. When I bought my Raleigh at 220 lbs, a lighter bike was meaningless to me.
As long as the bike fits, get basic quality in the price range you can afford. And there's nothing wrong with a nearly new, used bike at half price, even from a bike dealer. My local shop never had any trade-ins when I showed up or called. So I finally went out and just bought one via Craig's List. Plenty of decent bikes to choose from. I have 6 months on my GT series 4 road bike and have learned to really like. Most any bike takes a little while to get used to. I tried my brother's 21 Speed Univega mountain bike for a year (free) and just gave up on it for anything but short trips. Very unstable handle bars and not very comfortable with the 3" longer arm reach vs. a road bike. I guess that's why it's a mountain/dirt bike.
My road bikes had simple plastic/fabric stirrups that you slip into. For recreational biking no need for locking in with clamps/special shoes. And if an amateur sluggo like me got 8 years on a cheapo Raleigh doing zero maintenance, why do you need more? I even tried to rebuild the cassettes/sprockets myself when I found out that between parts and tools I'd be looking at $200. Forget that. I paid $295 for a nearly new bike needing nothing. Not a fan of the carbon front fork even if it is lighter and more responsive. I'd prefer the durability of aluminum. For someone actually doing racing and competitions I could say why "just a bike" wouldn't appeal to them. I'd add the GT series 4 to your list.
One downside of the higher speed bikes seems to be lesser chain life. I've yet to get more than about 1kmiles out of a 9 speed chain. Which is longer than I got out of much-abused 7 speed, but still. [Part of that could be the hills I have to climb.] Then again, 9 speed I think is going obsolete, or at least not all that fancy, so chains and cassettes should be getting cheap.
I don't look forward to replacing integrated shifters. I might go to barcons when that happens. I've never liked how my triple shifts up front, and I suspect all component levels don't like the big jumps that a triple has.
I do have clipless but after a few years they seem a bit worn. I won't go back to platforms, much less clips; but it's yet something else to wear out and use up.
My rule of thumb: when it comes to a hobby, you need just about an equal amount of money (and often more) to spend on the auxiliary items, as compared the big ticket item that everyone focuses on. A $1k bike might have you spending just as much on shoes, jerseys, shorts, computer, etc. Maybe more over the long run.
Yes! Trek is obviously a top brand!
Originally Posted By: supton
One downside of the higher speed bikes seems to be lesser chain life. I've yet to get more than about 1kmiles out of a 9 speed chain. Which is longer than I got out of much-abused 7 speed, but still. [Part of that could be the hills I have to climb.] Then again, 9 speed I think is going obsolete, or at least not all that fancy, so chains and cassettes should be getting cheap.
I don't look forward to replacing integrated shifters. I might go to barcons when that happens. I've never liked how my triple shifts up front, and I suspect all component levels don't like the big jumps that a triple has.
I do have clipless but after a few years they seem a bit worn. I won't go back to platforms, much less clips; but it's yet something else to wear out and use up.
My rule of thumb: when it comes to a hobby, you need just about an equal amount of money (and often more) to spend on the auxiliary items, as compared the big ticket item that everyone focuses on. A $1k bike might have you spending just as much on shoes, jerseys, shorts, computer, etc. Maybe more over the long run.
Odd, I have a 2012 Giant Defy 2. Bought it for $900 new as the end of the 2012 model year. According to MapMyRide, I have over 2000 miles, and I don't even think I started using the app until March of 2013.
So over 2k miles on a 10 speed chain and as far as I an my LBS can tell, it's still good.
I'm not sure I agree with either of the assertions.
Don't really need to spend $2k on a good bike.
Can't get more than 1k miles on higher density chains.
In fact, it may be the opposite. Higher group levels don't offer more durability, but often just lighter weight. My Tiagra may only be available with 10 speed cassettes, but that hasn't stopped me from logging over 2k miles in the 4 years I've ridden the bike.
In fact, the only failure of my sub $1k Giant has been rear wheel spokes. I started popping spokes more frequently and just this year bought a set of Vuelta Corsa HD wheels and another Tiagra cassette for $200 shipped to me. At the very least, I have a wheel I can take to the LBS to have spokes replaced while I ride the other...
Things like clothes, shoes, pedals, etc one would have to buy for any bike, so they are a wash.
I do agree, there is a night and day difference between the bike you'll buy at the discount store and the one you are likely to get at a LBS.
But I'm not sure we do the sport any favors by saying you can't get a good bike for less than $2k dollars.
I've out-ridden guys who dropped over $5k on a new carbon/unobtainum bike while riding a borrowed flat bar fitness bike.
So it is as much if not more about the rider than it is about the kit.
Originally Posted By: totegoat
I ride a $500 Trek and she a $500 Raleigh, both comfort bikes. 5K on each, lube the chains, zero issues or repairs.
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Hi Alex,
Interesting approach. I was always thinking of other way around. Maybe because I grow up in family with tradition in cycling. We/my parents/ always have at least two road bikes, city bikes, BMX later on MTBs.
E.g. If I say, I have 2000$ how can I spend them? My priorty is
- better cloths for winter/rain/summer – even if we have dedictated wordrop for all of them ,
- new shoes I have 5 pairs/person.
- Spare/upgrade parts.
- last and maybe at least – new bike
My advice for beginner is to start with good bike fit. Next is to choise for reliable wheelset – the rest is not important. Buy second hand or spend 5k for full carbon – do what you want
My point is that the difference in bikes are marginal and in cloths/shoes not. Try to ride in cold rain with goretex cloths/shoes and then switch to cheap ones.
PS actually nothing new. Remember "It is not about the bike" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/It%27s_Not_About_the_Bike
either the performance enhancers.
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