Best OTC oil for 6k-8k intervals in my 5.0?

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I have a 1995 Mustang GT (87k miles) that is currently using Pennzoil 10W-30. Pennzoil has shown excellent results with 4k-5k intervals. However, I have recently started to drive 100+ miles / day (mostly highway), and I am getting tired of crawling under the car every 6 weeks or so to change oil. What kind of oil would you recommend for 6k-8k intervals. Keep in mind that this car sees the dragstrip on occasion. Note: Please limit your recommendations to common Wal-mart or Autozone / Advance Auto / Pep Boys oils. This excludes GC, since I cannot seem to find it anywhere. Thanks! [Smile] [ March 10, 2004, 02:17 PM: Message edited by: novadude ]
 
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M1 would be my choice, but I think the syn version is a little thinner than the Pennz that your using now. Maybe Delvac 1.
 
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94-95 Mustang GTs/Cobras got the 5 Liter. 96-present is the 4.6L. You can tell the 94-95 GTs with the 5.0 because they have horizontal taillights; the modular engined ones (96 and on) have vertical taillights.
 
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In that 302 pushrod motor the Mobil 0w-40 would be a good choice and it's friction modded . Meets ISLAC GF-3 so doubt you would see a noticable loss of fuel mileage and 8k is a piece of cake for it in a good motor . or.... Autozone will order the Castrol Syntec 0w-30 if the customer prepays . All you need is the part number and I'll get it for anyone that needs it .
 

novadude

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OK... so lets narrow it down to Four: M1 10W-30 M1 0W-40 "new" Syntec 0W-30 Delvac 1 Which is BEST and why? Any others worth considering? Would Delvac REALLY hurt mpg / power? [ March 10, 2004, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: novadude ]
 
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quote:
Originally posted by novadude: OK... so lets narrow it down to Four: M1 10W-30 M1 0W-40 "new" Syntec 0W-30 Which is BEST and why? Any others worth considering? Would Delvac REALLY hurt mpg / power?
I just switched to 5W40 Delvac in my 4.0L Jeep engine and got a 10-15% increase in mileage over the 10W30 Mobil I was using..2000 miles thus far and I like the Delvac very much [Happy]
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Motorbike: In that 302 pushrod motor the Mobil 0w-40 would be a good choice and it's friction modded . Meets ISLAC GF-3 so doubt you would see a noticable loss of fuel mileage and 8k is a piece of cake for it in a good motor . or.... Autozone will order the Castrol Syntec 0w-30 if the customer prepays . All you need is the part number and I'll get it for anyone that needs it .
The trouble with Syntec is that no one knows what they're buying really. Of late we have at least 3 versions in distribution right now at all the same places. The old made in USA stuff, the red label made in Gemany stuff, and some red label stuff with no made in Germany on the bottle. Myself, I use M1 5W-30 in my 5.0L though I'll probably try M1R and possibly M1 SUV 5W-40 in it at some point. Looking at UOA's I don't think we've seen enough difference between M1 5W-30 and 10W-30 to make any practical difference... [ March 10, 2004, 05:03 PM: Message edited by: jsharp ]
 

novadude

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quote:
The trouble with Syntec is that no one knows what they're buying really. Of late we have at least 3 versions in distribution right now at all the same places. The old made in USA stuff, the red label made in Gemany stuff, and some red label stuff with no made in Germany on the bottle.
Yes... that bothers me. I am *really* stuggling with the idea of extended drains, and I need to know that I am using the best oil possible if I am going to attempt to go ~7k OCIs. Yes, I KNOW that there are plenty of syns that would be able to do this no problem, I just have a hard time getting away from the old 3k mindset. I thought I was daring going to 4500 or so on a high quality dino with 80% highway use in the summer! LOL
 
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quote:
Originally posted by novadude:
quote:
The trouble with Syntec is that no one knows what they're buying really. Of late we have at least 3 versions in distribution right now at all the same places. The old made in USA stuff, the red label made in Gemany stuff, and some red label stuff with no made in Germany on the bottle.
Yes... that bothers me. I am *really* stuggling with the idea of extended drains, and I need to know that I am using the best oil possible if I am going to attempt to go ~7k OCIs. Yes, I KNOW that there are plenty of syns that would be able to do this no problem, I just have a hard time getting away from the old 3k mindset. I thought I was daring going to 4500 or so on a high quality dino with 80% highway use in the summer! LOL

I've been using M1 5W-30 in mine since it was new other than one interval with 0W-30 although I did sell it once and then buy it back so I don't know what was in it for about 5000 miles. I've run drain intervals of 7500-10K miles but most of the miles were on trips other than some auto-x runs. Since you said you'll be doing a lot of highway driving I'd try the 10W-30 and use the factory change interval which is probably 7500 miles and then do a UOA. You could alwasy do a couple intervals of that and have Terry look at them, then do the same with something like D1 M1 SUV...
 
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quote:
Originally posted by novadude: Please limit your recommendations to common Wal-mart or Autozone / Advance Auto / Pep Boys oils. This excludes GC, since I cannot seem to find it anywhere.
The absolutely easiest way to buy engineoil is to call or log on to Myoilshop.com. Then just open your front door after it arrives. Novadude, here's what I'd do if I lived in PA, where it gets lots colder than in the Arizona desert. In the summer I'd use Red Line 5W-40. In the cold/cool months, I'd use Red Line 5W-30. In spite of both being 5W oils, the -30 is considerably thinner when cool than the 5W-40 (65 v. 94) and of course at 200dC it's thinner at 10.6 v. 15.1. The 5W-40 will give you the protection your engine needs at high temps, and it's NOT too thick. Read the blurbs about Toyota's and others' recommendations for nW-40s, -50s, and even -60s in Australia. [ March 10, 2004, 05:33 PM: Message edited by: Jeffrey Behr ]
 

Patman

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quote:
The trouble with Syntec is that no one knows what they're buying really. Of late we have at least 3 versions in distribution right now at all the same places. The old made in USA stuff, the red label made in Gemany stuff, and some red label stuff with no made in Germany on the bottle.
As long as the oil inside is green though, you're safe. The red label stuff which doesn't say made in Germany is old stock, not brand new stuff. They went with the new label at first before they begun sourcing the 0w30 from Germany.
 
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It's so frustrating that Castrol insists these are the same oils when they clearly aren't. The consumer should take Castrol to court like Mobil did. Castrol is clearly capable of delivering a good oil, but they can't be trusted. [No no]
 
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About the Castrol 0w-30 it does not take opening the bottle. All ya gotta look for is that A3 rating on the label but of course it meets more than just ACEA A3 . The old stuff whether it has a red or yellow label has an A1 rating printed on it .
 
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[Cool] Mobil 1 10w-30. Easy to get and holds up well and comes in 5 qt. jugs at Wally-World. Consider the M1 filter also, I got great UOA's on my wife's and my mom's cars (admittedly GM's [Roll Eyes] ) using M1/M1 filter.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by Patman:
quote:
The trouble with Syntec is that no one knows what they're buying really. Of late we have at least 3 versions in distribution right now at all the same places. The old made in USA stuff, the red label made in Gemany stuff, and some red label stuff with no made in Germany on the bottle.
As long as the oil inside is green though, you're safe. The red label stuff which doesn't say made in Germany is old stock, not brand new stuff. They went with the new label at first before they begun sourcing the 0w30 from Germany.

I've got enough GC for one more change on my Toyota and I'll look around a little bit then. The closest local stores still have the oldest stuff and the stores farther way had a mix of old US and current at the time GC last time I looked. Unless I see some incredible UOA's with it the next 2 intervals I'll probably not bother with it anymore. It just seems silly to me to drive all over Illinois just to find 6 1/2 quarts of oil...
 
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quote:
Originally posted by jsharp:
quote:
Originally posted by Patman:
quote:


I've got enough GC for one more change on my Toyota and I'll look around a little bit then. The closest local stores still have the oldest stuff and the stores farther way had a mix of old US and current at the time GC last time I looked. Unless I see some incredible UOA's with it the next 2 intervals I'll probably not bother with it anymore. It just seems silly to me to drive all over Illinois just to find 6 1/2 quarts of oil...

Autozone will order it for you . It's as easy as that although it does take 1 week and you have to prepay . Might even stock up and buy a years worth . I repeat [Smile] Autozone will order that oil in for a customer that asks and is willing to prepay ... no more driving around for those that can wait a week . [Smile] Will it outperform Mobils 0w-40 Supersyn ? Doubt it if the engine can nicely run a 14 cSt 40wt . That Mobil 0w-40 is some goooood stuff [Wink] [ March 10, 2004, 07:03 PM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
 

novadude

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quote:
Mobil 1 10w-30. Easy to get and holds up well and comes in 5 qt. jugs at Wally-World.
That makes a STRONG case for M1 10W-30. I do not want to have to plan my oil changes ahead of time and special order oil through Autozone, or other sources. Do I have a good reason for this? No... just my preference. Besides, knowing Castrol, they could change thier minds and be selling some other 0W-30 oil in 6 months. [Roll Eyes] M1 is marginally thinner than Pennz dino, and I am not having any real consumption issues with the Pennzoil 10W-30, so maybe this would be a good choice. Sell me on the 0W-40 Mobil 1. What make it so much better than 10W-30? Does it shear down in long intervals with such a large viscosity spread?
 
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