Best oil for Toyota Celica GT-S (High rev)

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JayPare

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TL;DR: I'm looking for the best oil for my car with explanation why.

Hello guys,

I'm entirely new to this forum, this is my first post. I want to know what oil you guys would recommend for my 2004 Toyota Celica GT-S. FYI, this car has the 2ZZ-GE engine, which has a lift (VVTL-i, similar to VTEC form Honda). It rev up to 8350 normally with lift engaging at 6200 RPM, but I just bought an Apexi Power FC ECU and the rev limit is set at 10k RPM. I'm using the car summer only, so I'm not really considered by really low temperature (the lowest I should see in summer here is minus 5C). I'm not always reving up to 10k RPM, but as you should guess, I commonly love to push it a little. Before having my new ECU, I was using Castrol Edge 5W-30, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 and lastly, Amsoil 5W-30, but I read online today that there is only downsides to no use 0W-XX. So know I decided to learn more about oil and find the best suited oil for my usage. I was considering LiquiMolly, Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, etc. but I rad here that people are often recommending Pennzoil, M1 etc. Please let me know why you suggest a particular type of oil since I wanna learn here, not just have a simple answer and never come back on this forum.

Thank you very much.
 
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Why do you have the rev limit at 10k rpm? Have you installed longer duration cams and higher load valve springs?
The rocker arm of the VVTL-I valvetrain was very heavy, and the high lift cam follower was a slider, not a roller.
These considerations make me think you need higher zddp than an SM/SN 30-weight is allowed to have.
Since you are not running the car in the winter, I don't think you need a 0wXX oil.
Is your car just used in street driving, or are you taking it on racetracks? How much operating time are you accumulating above 5000 rpm?
 
At 10K I wouldn't plan on keeping it long. Check your lift bolts as they tend to wear. I wouldn't go past 8300, without improved lifters/cams you're really only putting extra stress on the engine. Anything above 8300 the car isn't making any more power.

If run a quality 5W30. Amsoil SSL would be fine. 1zz and 2zz's are not that hard on oil.
 
Minus 5 degrees in SUMMER? Jesus!

As others said, I wouldn't be taking the engine to 10k either if you want it to last. There's a reason Toyota set the limiter at 8350...
 
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Stories on net say the oil pump tends to grenade if a miss-shift is done and the revs go to 10k. If you have replaced the oil pump with a forged one then your good to 12k rpm.
Then you got to worry about valve float above 8600rpm...
Coild you get a video of this doing 10k rpm id love to hear how the engine sounds. Should be brilliant.
 
Ok! Thank you vry much guys. I didn't expect to get as much answer in less than 24 hours. I will answer all of you in this long post.

Quote:
Why do you have the rev limit at 10k rpm?

I have the rev limit at 10k RPM, because the guy that had the ECU before me had it tuned and it has been tuned like that.

Quote:
Have you installed longer duration cams and higher load valve springs?

No, but this is something I'm planning to in the future.

Quote:
These considerations make me think you need higher zddp than an SM/SN 30-weight is allowed to have.

What is zddp? And what is SM/SN? Sorry I'm a little bit noob!
smirk.gif


Quote:
Since you are not running the car in the winter, I don't think you need a 0wXX oil.

I started reading this article:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles

And this is what made me think I should go to 0W-XX. Like the guy said, it will only help me on cold start but the engine oil will be at the same specs when running at normal temp.

Quote:
Is your car just used in street driving, or are you taking it on racetracks?

Only street for now. No racetrack.

Quote:
How much operating time are you accumulating above 5000 rpm?

I'm not sure how to answer your question but I'm usually driving it under 5k RPM. Except some start That I like to push it, but this can last around 5 seconds I guess and when I reach the speed limit I stop pushing it. The longest I could do is if I'm on highway and down shifting and shifting because of traffic but I guess this would totalize around 30 seconds.


Quote:
Minus 5 degrees in SUMMER? Jesus!

It's more likely not gonna happen but I wanted to put the lowest I could possibly go since I takout my car from hibernation in May and bring it back to it in October ends. :p

Quote:
As others said, I wouldn't be taking the engine to 10k either if you want it to last. There's a reason Toyota set the limiter at 8350...

Not planning to do it often, but I will perhaps try it one time when my new ECU will be installed. :p

Quote:
Stories on net say the oil pump tends to grenade if a miss-shift is done and the revs go to 10k. If you have replaced the oil pump with a forged one then your good to 12k rpm.

No aftermarket oil pump for now but this is something I will add in my wishlist. Thank you!
smile.gif


Quote:
Could you get a video of this doing 10k rpm id love to hear how the engine sounds. Should be brilliant.

I will try when everything will be ready!
smile.gif


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Something with as high of a HTHS as possible. Probably Motul 300v or Redline.

What is HTHS?
smirk.gif
 
Originally Posted By: slybunda

Coild you get a video of this doing 10k rpm id love to hear how the engine sounds. Should be brilliant.


Agreed, will be brilliant.......once.
 
Originally Posted By: JayPare
TL;DR: I'm looking for the best oil for my car with explanation why.

Hello guys,

I'm entirely new to this forum, this is my first post. I want to know what oil you guys would recommend for my 2004 Toyota Celica GT-S. FYI, this car has the 2ZZ-GE engine, which has a lift (VVTL-i, similar to VTEC form Honda). It rev up to 8350 normally with lift engaging at 6200 RPM, but I just bought an Apexi Power FC ECU and the rev limit is set at 10k RPM. I'm using the car summer only, so I'm not really considered by really low temperature (the lowest I should see in summer here is minus 5C). I'm not always reving up to 10k RPM, but as you should guess, I commonly love to push it a little. Before having my new ECU, I was using Castrol Edge 5W-30, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 and lastly, Amsoil 5W-30, but I read online today that there is only downsides to no use 0W-XX. So know I decided to learn more about oil and find the best suited oil for my usage. I was considering LiquiMolly, Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, etc. but I rad here that people are often recommending Pennzoil, M1 etc. Please let me know why you suggest a particular type of oil since I wanna learn here, not just have a simple answer and never come back on this forum.

Thank you very much.

You'll want to read https://bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ oil university to learn up.
 
welcome2.gif


My choice would be Castrol Edge 0w30, which you still get up there in Canada
08.gif


Castrol stopped selling it down here in the US about 3 months ago.
 
Originally Posted By: CELICA_XX
It sounds like someone just watched Fast & Furious.

Look at a few power curves on the 2ZZ-GE


Thx for your so constructive reply with no arrogance at all.

Like I said, I plan doing some internal modification on it and I'm not really planning to rev to 10k RPM before getting those upgrade.
 
You need to understand engine dynamics. 10K is spinning pretty fast. Just so you know, rod failure does not happen on the compression or power stroke. It always happens on the exhaust stroke. Piston speeds to the top and rod has to stop it and pull it back down on intake stroke. Only problem is that there is to much inertia for the rod bolts to handle and one snaps - end of engine.

Inertia loads go up with the square of the speed. Just adding 1,000 RPM to OEM design loads is an enormous load to handle.

Then there is breathing. You have to feed those pulses. Do the math on your engine as an air pump at various RPM and see if you have enough intake and exhaust runner volume to handle the RPM.

Then start thinking about the cams. The cams that will feed the beast at 10K, will not idle worth a darn ...
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno


Then start thinking about the cams. The cams that will feed the beast at 10K, will not idle worth a darn ...



Not true. Lose the plenum and feed each cylinder from atmosphere and it'll idle rock steady and still make power at 16k rpms.
How do you think sports bikes make 200hp at 16/17k and still hold a rock steady idle at 1k? Because big cam&ITBs.
 
I will certainly upgrade components like valvetrain, cam, rocker, oil pan, oil pump, intake and exhaust before reving that high. But in the mean time, I'm still reving up to 8350 (rev limit of stock ECU), so I still want the best oil I can find!
smile.gif
 
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