Best Oil for Given Engine

The old rule of thumb was: the thinnest oil that will give you 10 PSI for each 1000 rpm. I think that is still valid for choosing the correct viscosity.
 
Empire:
Does HTHS really matter if the low HTHS oils takes the engine to 300kmi. Any evidence by anyone that a low HTHS GF6B 0w16 has not or will not allow the engine to go a respectable 200-300kmi? Any real-world evidence at all? When I say evidence I do mean data-set.

The best oil is the one that closes out engine end-of-life near 300kmi, or, it got the job done w/o issue (whatever that job was).
It's like baseball, the closer is what matters.

Best I know of with a 5W-20 is 150,000 mi of Police Work followed by 600,000 mi in Taxi Work. I doubt 0W-16 will shorten that enough to really matter.

The post about that car are here somewhere from a fleet manager. It's been awhile. Best I can do.
 
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The old rule of thumb was: the thinnest oil that will give you 10 PSI for each 1000 rpm. I think that is still valid for choosing the correct viscosity.
Hmmm, when I was putting engines together 30yrs ago the rule was high volume std pressure (HVSP). Chevy builds were running HVSP Mellings, Pontiacs using HP pumps. Not sure if my BOP engines outlasted the Chevy's or not.
 
this is all you need.
PZ-Platinum-API-950x1000.jpeg
 
The API is reiterating their support for a 800 ppm phosphorus limit. SP oils will continue to have the limit. If you want a higher phosphorus number it won’t have a SP approval.

Per RDY4WAR VOA on HPL HDEO 5W20,
I presume my oil has ~1180 ppm of phosphorus.

My first smog check will be in a few years,
with several hundred thousand miles acrued.

Hopefully the cat will not be poisoned.
 
How hard are these boosted engines actually working? The 3.3TT in Kia Stinger is able to climb hills spinning at 1000rpm.
It's always in the 1000-1500rpm range.
The manual recommends ACEA A5 oil or "higher" although that doesn't make any sense really?
Yet the recommended viscosity range is 5w30 all the way to 20w50.
Talk about ambiguity 😄
 
Not sure if relevant - but not long ago I poured about 100ml of Toyota 0w20 & 100ml of a 5w30 oil in separate plastic water bottles.
After spinning and shaking the bottles the toyota 0w20 flowed much faster, but it would slightly leak around the bottle cap. Which led me to believe that low viscosity oils may not be compatible with engines not designed for them.
 
Which is why I miss some of the guys that used to be here in the early days.

Reading all your posts there is nothing wrong with your "counsel" ideas as far as I am concerned. Nothing at all wrong, choosing an approved oil class (API) required by the engine maker and narrowing it down based on ideas and thoughts.
I have found sadly, that for some reason, if you bring up these thoughts on choosing an oil this way, its turns into an endless argumentative thread of which I was recently a part of and the one called "argumentative" for bringing in new ideas. (one was even labelled that about be by "monitor" in here)
Anyway, there are many sources of unconventional "tests" and thoughts which is pretty much for the individual who looks to choose based on what they say. After all, its what makes you feel good about choosing an oil in that API class, we all have our reasons for choosing, be it price, be it the company, be it the color of the oil bottle or the marketing on it.

I think, we do not see a lot of "old" school thoughts anymore it because API standards has become so advanced and refining oil so standardized that I think only a handful of companies make the additive packages that are sold to the oil companies to begin with. More or less they all work, in the old days, they didnt, including the API standards at the time.
Just like TV's electronics, gasoline that you choose, its all pretty much standard now, again, of products in the same class, in this case API.

(anyway, just my thoughts)
 
The old rule of thumb was: the thinnest oil that will give you 10 PSI for each 1000 rpm. I think that is still valid for choosing the correct viscosity.
What rule of thumb was that? That was B.S. from AE Hass oil 101.
 
This isn't about what the best oil that meets factory spec is or the cheapest.

Let's theorize about the best oil for a given engine is including it's emissions equipment.

Since I own a Gen 2 3.5 Ecoboost (T-GDI) I'm going to use it. It specs a 5W-30, Mechanically shears oil and is a reputed fuel diluter (Gen I was worse).
But honestly it's just the first problem child that comes to mind.

Would the ideal oil look something like a VW 504.00 / 507.00 Oil? A CK-4 oil?

Would it be a 3.5 HTHS for best combination of protection and flow?

Would it be a 2.3 HTHS for increased flow?

Would it be a 4.4 HTHS for increased protection?

I know I have my opinions but I kind of want to see how others would go about it. I'm always willing to look at alternative ways of viewing a problem and it's solution.
Frequent oil changes with with an oil that meets or exceeds the required specs will allow the engine to last and last
 
Frequent oil changes with with an oil that meets or exceeds the required specs will allow the engine to last and last

So every ~100mi with whatever the manual says for oil type? How frequent are you suggesting? Do UOA's give any info on too soon or not soon enough?
It's year 2021 soon, why don't vehicles come with a oil cleaning system (not just a dismal filter) and then end-user can just add what's needed to replenish the add paks? Heck, NASA made a CO2 cleaning system out of scrap/spare materials (socks, bungee cord, etc) from the command module.

And I am liked so much I am now being followed by bitog staff.
 
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