Best oil for "cling" (ie long term storage)??

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I have an older big block Trans Am that get's stored most of the year and only driven in the summer. I've used Mobil 1 10W30 since it was new.

Is Mobil 1 good for long term storage? The car only get's driven only a couple hundred miles per year.

I want to make sure the oil is clinging to the cylinder walls as long as possible while stored. I know I should drive it monthly but I don't always do this.

What oil characteristics are best for seldom driven collector cars and what oils are optimal for these characteristics. (Would Delvac 1 be better???)
 
The guys I know that build rods like the Amsoil 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Oil due to its “cling” ability and its robust anti-corrosion package. I lay up my marine engine with this and after a winter of non-use, the rocker arms still have a nice coating of oil on them.
 
This is one area where you should not use synthetic, no matter how expensive. A straght SAE 30 Delo or Rotella would be ideal. Next best would be SL-rated 30 or 40. Cold flowability is exactly what you don't want here.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jimbo:
This is one area where you should not use synthetic, no matter how expensive. A straght SAE 30 Delo or Rotella would be ideal. Next best would be SL-rated 30 or 40. Cold flowability is exactly what you don't want here.

What???

Where did you come up with that? I'd like to find some literature related to using a straigh weight oil for storage
 
Wouldn't the polar nature of an ester based oil make it cling better than other oils?
 
Just add some good ol' STP , its perfect for that, and I agree with the "NOT" using synthetic idea.
Rando

[ April 02, 2003, 07:30 PM: Message edited by: ZR2RANDO ]
 
Do a little test. Take two identical new ordinary steel nails. Dip one in Mobil One. Dip the other in HD 30 (not the SA-rated non-detergent stuff). Put them both outside and see which one rusts first.
 
Why not use a marine 4 cycle oil with its beefed up anti-corrosion package? This should provide protection as it is used by many to store boat engines during the winter.
 
Considering the length of time the vehicle is in storage, I'd consider pulling the plugs, squirting some marine fogger oil in the cylinders, then turning the engine over a little before replacing the plugs. Just started a Mercury outboard that had been winterized for about five months, it smoked a ton, which was good since it indicated that the cylinders were coated with oil.
 
Actually there are oils specifically formulated for engine storage. this is not something you would expect to see on the shelf of an auto parts store.
Try contacting one of the major oil companies for info.
 
There are quite a few car collectors in our town, and the local auto bloke sells a valvoline product for storage (straight 30 ?) with a Vapour Phase Inhibitor, that protects the unoiled parts of engines.

I've been wondering about using camphor as a VPI for stored engines (lawn mowers and the like).

I don't think any oil will protect wear parts from a cold, dry start after prolonged storage (4Runner rattles like nothing else after a week without running)
 
Here is what Amsoil say's about it's 15w40 AME:
quote:


Prevents Rust and Corrosion

AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil contains special rust and corrosion-inhibiting additives to prevent the rusting or corrosion of iron, copper, lead and aluminum materials.
AMSOIL Synthetic Heavy-Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil is formulated for extended drain intervals. Its unique synthetic formulation, improved detergent/dispersant capabilities, and long drain additive package ensure maximum engine protection, cleanliness and performance over extended drain periods. Its advanced 12 TBN formulation keeps engines in superb condition even when the oil is used for extended drain intervals.

I'm with satterfi, and darrenc on this one, a good long drain oil will be most benificial for preventing rust and corrsion.
 
I store my '87 Grand National during the winter in an unheated garage from about October to just last weekend. I put new Castrol GTX 10w-30 oil with a Puralotor filter before I park it. It has 115K miles and the compression was perfect last spring when I checked it. I have been doing the past ten years with no problems. I suppose an engine fogger would work if you really want to spend the time, but then you cannot eveb start it once during the winter without doing it all over again. I use the fogger in my snowmobiles and waverunner, but they only have two cylinder that right in top for wasy access.
 
msparks,

High TBN is important for rust prevention. We agree 100% on that. HD "dino" oils also have a high TBN. This independent of base oil type or brand.

The "long drain" interval I've seen in Amsoil literature refers to miles, not time.

A higher viscosity when cold will mantain a thicker film on parts over time. Synthetics inherently "flow" at low temperatures, tending to run off rather than "cling". That is my point.
 
For what it's worth, I tend to agree that TBN is very important to preventing corrosion and one of the 15W40 diesel/heavy duty oils should work great.

--- Bror Jace
 
quote:

High TBN is important for rust prevention. We agree 100% on that. HD "dino" oils also have a high TBN. This independent of base oil type or brand.

Guys, I'm trying to figure out just how does tbn have anything to do with cling and long term storage against rust.

I think maybe there may be some confusion...

Total Base Number does not measure the accumulation of oxidation products or antioxidants, rather, it measures the depletion of a detergents present in an engine oil for the purposes of neutralizing acidic blow-by gases which occurs due to low levels of antioxidants with in the oil. As the detergent is consumed in its role of neutralizing acids, the base number decreases from its original new oil value.

------------
Now, look at what a detergents function is..
additive type...
Detergents
purpose
Keep surfaces free of deposits
Typical Compounds
Metallo-organic compounds of sodium, calcium and magnesium phenolates, phosphonates and sulfonates
Functions
Chemical reaction with sludge and varnish precursors to neutralize them and keep them soluble .
---------------
Ok, next,
-------------
additive type
Dispersants,
purpose
Keeps insoluble contaminants dispersed in the lubricant.
Typical Compounds
Alkylsuccinimides, alkylsuccinic esters, and mannich reaction products
Functions
Contaminants are bonded by polar attraction to dispersant molecules, prevented from agglomerating and kept in suspension due to solubility of dispersant
-------------
Now those play a role in TBN function.

I think what you're wanting or refering to is something that is a Corrosion and Rust Inhibitor. This has no direct relation to tbn.
additive type...
Corrosion and Rust Inhibitor
purpose
Prevents corrosion and rusting of metal parts in contact with the lubricant
Typical Compounds
Zinc dithiophosphates, metal phenolates, basic metal sulfonates, fatty acids and amines
Functions
Preferential adsorption of polar constituent on metal surface to provide protective film, or neutralize corrosive acids
-------------------

Yes, most diesel oils have this as a norm.
 
You can use one of the formulated oils as I suggested or use an ISO 46 or 68 Hydraulic oil. Hydraulic oils have loads of anti-rust and anti-corrosion additives.


Shaeffer's #254 comes to mind. Buy a 5-gallon pail and this will last 4-5 years.
 
I am also interested in this Subject, because I too have an older Trans Am.
You guys are suggesting Diesel Oils. These would be ok to run during the summer also, and not just the winter Right?
And what diesel oils have a 10w-30 or 40 rating, if any?
Would a 15W-XX be too much?
Thanks
 
Okay, I've read enough.

I suggest using Redline's supershock 80w90. As per Bob's test we all know that this stuff will stick to whatever it hits. This'll definately cling to the engine's internal parts.
lol.gif
 
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