Best oil for blown LS1 that isn't driven a lot

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I have an '04 GTO that has 38k on the clock and only about 4500 miles on its TVS1900. It felt a little sluggish the other day, and I discovered that the bypass valve was sticky (not closing fully) and therefore losing boost.

When I pulled the blower's snout, the bypass blade and throat looked clean, but wiping them down with throttle body cleaner took care of the stickiness. I'm going to add a catch can to help keep this from reoccurring, but was wondering if there is an oil that would be less prone to gumming that finds its way through the pvc system. The car sits all winter and gets driven about 2.5k miles in the summer. I've been running 5w30M1EP or M1 0w40 and change it yearly.


Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Switch to Pennzoil synthetic and see if you like it better. There's a ten dollar rebate on it right now.
 
Some for what its worth brainless bench racing:

Unless you go really exotic, the catch can is you best bet. All 5w30 are loaded with VM.

Redline in a monograde 30 (if they still sell it) or Amsoil ATM 10w30 (as far second choice).

That 0w slackwax oil that's not technically a full synthetic aint helping.
 
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Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite


That 0w slackwax oil that's not technically a full synthetic aint helping.


Any true synthetics other than Amsoil?


Mobil 1 EP 0W20, Mobil 1 5W50, Motul, Redline, etc.

I think the lowest NOACK of any off the shelf oil is supposed to be PPU 10W30. About half the two oils you have been using I believe.

PS I have a catch can on my Mustang and it helps a lot.
 
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Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Is a blower the same as a supercharger or is it a type of supercharger?



Are all superchargers blowers?


What about turbos?



Or is this all slang anyway?


Blower - Slang for Supercharger

Blower is usually used to refer to superchargers that are mechanically driven off the engine by belts, shafts, gears or chains.

Turbo - An exhaust driven supercharger.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Some for what its worth brainless bench racing:

Unless you go really exotic, the catch can is you best bet. All 5w30 are loaded with VM.

Redline in a monograde 30 (if they still sell it) or Amsoil ATM 10w30 (as far second choice).

That 0w slackwax oil that's not technically a full synthetic aint helping.


Thanks. When I posted here a while back and before this occurrence, M1 0w40 was the consensus choice. I think I'll give the Amsoil a try.

(Still open to suggestions from any of the other smart people, here.)
grin.gif
 
I think that catch can is a good idea.

So is a full synthetic oil with a low Noack volatility.

It's the light fractions of the oil that vaporize, so the less of these the better. All other things being equal, this is often reflected in the winter cold start "W" rating.

I don't know you climate but I think a 5W-30 would be better for you than a 0W-30. Better again would be a 10W-30.

I like M1 High Mileage 10W-30 as it is thicker than regular M1 10W-30. Also Pennzoil Plat / Ultra often has low Noack.

Consider PP 10W-30 or M1 HM 10W-30 if you think it's OK cold start wise for your climate (should be good to 0F or -20C).
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
I think that catch can is a good idea.

So is a full synthetic oil with a low Noack volatility.

It's the light fractions of the oil that vaporize, so the less of these the better. All other things being equal, this is often reflected in the winter cold start "W" rating.

I don't know you climate but I think a 5W-30 would be better for you than a 0W-30. Better again would be a 10W-30.

I like M1 High Mileage 10W-30 as it is thicker than regular M1 10W-30. Also Pennzoil Plat / Ultra often has low Noack.

Consider PP 10W-30 or M1 HM 10W-30 if you think it's OK cold start wise for your climate (should be good to 0F or -20C).

Thanks for chiming in. I'm in Michigan, but the car is garage kept, wears summer tires, and only sees nice weather. So a 10w should be fine.
 
Originally Posted By: vronline
Where are you guys seeing noack values for Pennzoil products?


Pennzoil doesn't make it available. You have to depend on independent testing. The numbers Ive seen for PPU 10W30 are in the 4.7% range.

10W30 as a general rule tends to be pretty low. Supertech Synthetic WPP 10W30 is only a little over 7%.
 
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Originally Posted By: jkasch
Originally Posted By: SR5
I think that catch can is a good idea.

So is a full synthetic oil with a low Noack volatility.

It's the light fractions of the oil that vaporize, so the less of these the better. All other things being equal, this is often reflected in the winter cold start "W" rating.

I don't know you climate but I think a 5W-30 would be better for you than a 0W-30. Better again would be a 10W-30.

I like M1 High Mileage 10W-30 as it is thicker than regular M1 10W-30. Also Pennzoil Plat / Ultra often has low Noack.

Consider PP 10W-30 or M1 HM 10W-30 if you think it's OK cold start wise for your climate (should be good to 0F or -20C).

Thanks for chiming in. I'm in Michigan, but the car is garage kept, wears summer tires, and only sees nice weather. So a 10w should be fine.


Its not really a long drain oil but you might look at RD30. I havnt really looked at NOACK but it is pretty popular in the GT500 for street/strip.

PS RD30 isn't that low on NOACK. ATM is much better.
 
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Castrol and Valvoline don't show anything under 8% that I have seen, so these numbers seem quite low.

Originally Posted By: Gene K
Originally Posted By: vronline
Where are you guys seeing noack values for Pennzoil products?


Pennzoil doesn't make it available. You have to depend on independent testing. The numbers Ive seen for PPU 10W30 are in the 4.7% range.

10W30 as a general rule tends to be pretty low. Supertech Synthetic WPP 10W30 is only a little over 7%.
 
Not many companies list Noack Volatility, but Sinclair do

Dino Oil Spec Sheet

Their Full Synthetic oil has the following Noack volatility percentage
- 0W20 = 13.9%
- 5W30 = 11.7%
- 10W30 = 8.2%

Sure you can find better and worse for all grades, but these look like fairly typical values, anyway it's the trend that's important.

10W30 Synthetic ---- NICE
 
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Thanks for all the replies.

I was looking at Redline. Their site shows a NOAK of 6 for both their 5w30 and 10w30. After being schooled a bit on NOAK, I would have expected the 10w30 to be a little better than the 5w.
 
Hey OP,

Yeah the above are just general trends for typical Group 3 synthetics oil. Different base oils like PAO and GTL can change things, so can meeting a higher OEM spec. To be MB 229.5 the Noack has to be 10% or less, similar Dexos is a tighter spec than API SN (13% Vs 15% from memory).

I was looking at the Sinclair Dexos synthetic oils and both the 5W20 and 5W30 were about 10.5 %. Surprisingly close and both better than their standard synthetics above. I don't know much about RedLine but I hear it's a good product, with good base stock, which probably translates to lower Noack and higher price.

There is more to an oil than Noack volatility. I also look at HTHS which is a measure of oil film strength under load, and Zinc or ZDDP which is the amount of anti-wear add in the oil.

Look at M1 oils

Regular M1 5W30 has a HTHS of 3.1 and 900 ppm Zinc
Regular M1 10W30 has a HTHS of 3.0 and 900 ppm Zinc

Now look at the M1 High Mileage oils
M1 HM 5W30 has a HTHS of 3.3 and 1100 ppm Zinc
M1 HM 10W30 has a HTHS of 3.5 and 1100 ppm Zinc

I like high HTHS and high zinc, but low Noack.

I don't know what the M1 HM 10W30 noack is exactly, but it has to be pretty good. I'm guessing about 8% maybe less.

To be honest I would run M1 HM 10W30 in your car and be done with it. These M1 High Mileage oils are performance oils in disguise.
 
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Originally Posted By: SR5
Hey OP,

Yeah the above are just general trends for typical Group 3 synthetics oil. Different base oils like PAO and GTL can change things, so can meeting a higher OEM spec. To be MB 229.5 the Noack has to be 10% or less, similar Dexos is a tighter spec than API SN (13% Vs 15% from memory).

I was looking at the Sinclair Dexos synthetic oils and both the 5W20 and 5W30 were about 10.5 %. Surprisingly close and both better than their standard synthetics above. I don't know much about RedLine but I hear it's a good product, with good base stock, which probably translates to lower Noack and higher price.

There is more to an oil than Noack volatility. I also look at HTHS which is a measure of oil film strength under load, and Zinc or ZDDP which is the amount of anti-wear add in the oil.


Look at M1 oils

Regular M1 5W30 has a HTHS of 3.1 and 900 ppm Zinc
Regular M1 10W30 has a HTHS of 3.0 and 900 ppm Zinc




Now look at the M1 High Mileage oils
M1 HM 5W30 has a HTHS of 3.3 and 1100 ppm Zinc
M1 HM 10W30 has a HTHS of 3.5 and 1100 ppm Zinc

I like high HTHS and high zinc, but low Noack.

I don't know what the M1 HM 10W30 noack is exactly, but it has to be pretty good. I'm guessing about 8% maybe less.

To be honest I would run M1 HM 10W30 in your car and be done with it. These M1 High Mileage oils are performance oils in disguise.


Thanks for the education and recommendations. I do appreciate it.
 
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