Best of the Best full synthetics...which one?.

[mormit]

Neo needs to update their web site a bit. I just pulled up the specs on their 10W-30 oil and it lists it as meeting API SG/SH classification. Are these old specs or is it along the lines of Amsoil where they do not meet the current API SL low limits set for phosphorus? Anybody have experience with this oil?

 

[MolaKule]

Bror, Regarding Redline, I was referring to the quality of the additive package, not each component. Maybe I should have used the word quality instead of conservative. Except for the moly, each component is at a fairly low level leaving about 90% for the polyol base oil(s).

 

[MolaKule]

When I think of full synth's I view a formulated oil as having one or more esters types blended with PAO. I didn't mention Schaeffer's because it has only PAO's and essentially replaces the ester AW's with moly.

 

[The_Oz]

quote:

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Originally posted by VeeDubb: 1. People tend not to like Group III synthetics and would prefer PAO synthetics. 2. People suggest doing an oil analysis to pinpoint the good oils.

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I'm not saying Group III sucks. I just don't like endorsing BS marketing tactics. If the Group III synthetics lowered their price per quart, then I'd consider it. I also do not like the way API has turned a blind eye on the definition of synthetic. As for oil analysis, how else can you judge the oil you're using in your motor? I don't care if my car dynoed an extra 5HP from using Redline, I care more about how it protected my engine. Oz

 

[OneQuartLow]

Toy4x4, I was grumpy after a bad day & 1/2. I read your question as bait instead of as your trying to understand the differences. A better reply might have been something like: What vehicle/engine/condition/environment/habits/budget? You can find weak "synthetics" and some very good dino's. In some cases a dino could be better for your situation, or, with NASA budget, go for the gold and change it out every month. MolaKule & others here can line you up on the special unobtanium Jet oils, or, if you provide some parameters, something more reasonable. Anyway, thought I'd revisit this one. My earlier reply bugged me today while out of town. David

 

[Toy4x4]

No problem, David. The question wasn't for helping me decide on an oil. I've already bought some Mobil1 to try and then MAYBE will be using Redline for extended drains and utilizing oil analysis to test intervals. I'd never seen a comparison on the forum and was just interested in what people thought and hoped it might help others is some way. Seeing Tooslicks post made me more secure with the Mobil1 purchase and the thought of going Redline after. How about I give you my parameters and crunch the #s for fun? Vehicle & Engine:'93 Toy V6 4x4 Xcab manual Condition:Excellent, 114K (low end of average per year),oil changed religiously every 3K. Used Castrol GTX for most of its life (up to 100K???). All scheduled maintenence done. Am currently in Auto-Rx procedure. Environment:AZ heat (up above 105-115F normal in summer-->May-Sept, freezes only a few times but I get to the snow country a couple times as well) Habits:66-75% city, the rest freeway. Very little offroad. No bad habits. Budget:12K per year...3k oil changes...$22 per change = $88 per year currently. If this # went up to $100-110, it wouldn't bother me knowing there is a high quality product in engine. (That # ($88) could actually go down if I changed the Redline once a year. ) Thanks again. Toy4x4

 

[TooSlick]

Toy4x4, Given your driving conditions and # of miles per year, I'd just run Mobil 1, 10w-30 and change it every 6000 miles/6 months. I'd probably look for a premimum oil filter as well. That should do you nicely for the next 150k miles, or until the body falls apart. By the way, you need to factor in the value of your labor to do those four, oil/filter changes per year, as well as the clean up mess you have to deal with. I figure my labor is worth $25.00 per oil change ....

 

[Toy4x4]

TooSlick, 1. Out of curiosity, why not Redline for 12K/1 year and a filter changed at halfway? The two Toyota filter makers, Nippondenso (Japanese made) and Purolator (US made) are supposed to be high quality, what would be a better choice??? 2. No rusty cars here! Way too dry. Bushing, hoses, and boots dry rotting, yes. 3. Since I'm not a mechanic, I have it changed at the dealer. They usually look at other things around the truck and notify/show me problems as they occur. Though I do take care to look, they've found things I KNOW I would have never seen and the truck is running better because I do this. I take in my own oil and they just subtract they cost of theirs off. Probably a no-no here to mention you don't change your own oil.

 

[sprintman]

Toy4x4 what is the actual engine model no in that vehicle?

 

[Toy4x4]

TooSlick, The Redline option would be my "ultimate goal", so to speak, and Mobil1 is the "backup". The Fumoto valve is on my list of things to do. Yes I will be sticking w/ 10w-30. I'll be ordering the Redline online and will be doing the whole truck. One of the Toyota forum guys recommends and uses the Shockproof Gear oil from Redline (don't know what weight, though), thoughts??? Spector, My tranny has been a bit quirky (mostly in cold) but since putting in 6ozs of Auto-Rx, its helped. Can't wait to put in the Redline. I've heard "shifting like butter" being said. sprintman, I hope I found the right info for you: V6 3VZ-E VZN or engine family:PTY3.OT5FB4E Sorry all for topic getting skewed in my direction. The personnal input is appreciated.

 

[TooSlick]

Toy4x4, The once a year Redline change would probably work fine as well. I would recommend taking an oil sample after 6000 miles and having Terry Dyson test it. Install a Fumoto Drain Valve when you put the oil in - this makes it simple to take an oil sample. I put one on my '95 Tacoma and it works great! Since you have a fair number of miles on this engine and live in a hot climate, I'd go with their 10w-30. If you are going to be mail ordering the Redline, I'd go and get their gear lube at the same time. The MT-90, GL-4 for the transmission and the 75w-90, GL-5 rated stuff for everything else ....

 

[Spector]

I second the Fumoto drain valves. I have four of them installed now and sampling and draining is much easier and much cleaner. Also second the RedLine gear oil, if you have a quirky transmission, especially when cold, I definitely vote for this stuff.

 

[sprintman]

Toy4x4 Oil rec here (Oz) is 10W40, 15W40, 20W50 for 3VZ-E engine avail here from 1990-1996. 10W30 in Arizona?

 

[Toy4x4]

sprintman, Yes, the manual says 0*F----> beyond 100*F use 10w-30. Strange they'd give more options "down under" than here in US. We basically have the same climates throughout our countries. Weird.

 

[Toy4x4]

Forgot to mention that they also recommend 5w-30 for temps from 45*F--->below -20*F. These are the only two weights shown to be used.

 

[Spector]

If you are going to use RedLine gear oil I would not suggest an additive with it, works great without any possible brews being used and if you do I would also look at LubeGuard which many people swear by for manual and auto trannies

 

[sprintman]

No not weird it's called CAFE!!

 

[dropitby]

Too Slick said:Given your driving conditions and # of miles per year, I'd just run Mobil 1, 10w-30 and change it every 6000 miles/6 months. I'd probably look for a premimum oil filter as well. That should do you nicely for the next 150k miles, or until the body falls apart. He went on to say Redline for a year would be ok also. My service Manual states the oil & filter be changed 7500 miles or 6 months.This is with the Castrol they put in at the dealer.It clearly states not to put additives in because the oil contains enough protection to last 7500 miles or 6 mo..That said the dealer adds Wynns to the oil which they deem a non additive I guess So my question for this thread is Redline that much better that after 6 months the additive package has not depleated enough that it will not go another 6 months.I read where people were adding additive supplements after 6 mo. to refresh the oil to last another 6 mo. I for one think the majority change at 5000 mi. or 6 mo. anyway why risk the question at all.A point off topic he also says to use a Premium oil filter.

 

[TallPaul]

Thanks for pulling this one up dropitby. Interesting thread. The more I read about Redline, the more I think it has to be about the best motor oil money can buy. I am tempted to try it in one of my (or wife's) vehicles someday. Just have to figure out which one is worthy. [ September 17, 2004, 09:56 AM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]

 

[gimpy]

Environment:AZ heat (up above 105-115F normal in summer-->May-Sept, freezes only a few times but I get to the snow country a couple times as well) Habits:66-75% city, the rest freeway. Very little offroad. No bad habits. Budget:12K per year...3k oil changes...$22 per change = $88 per year currently. If this # went up to $100-110, it wouldn't bother me knowing there is a high quality product in engine. (That # ($88) could actually go down if I changed the Redline once a year.] Ipersonally would go with rotella t synth. 1 filter change and top off with chevron dino 5w20 for a additive cocktail. 5/40 has all your temps covered great FP,VI,on this oil. Well I like it and it's cheap. Annyway that is what I use and works great for me. Just my .02 [ September 18, 2004, 03:59 AM: Message edited by: gimpy ]