Best of both worlds?

Messages
13
Location
Delaware
Hello my oily friends! This is my first post to this board. I am about to fire up a newly built performance Pontiac 455 street/ strip motor and have a few questions. What would be the best oil for startup and break-in for a roller cam motor? How quickly can I switch to synthetic if I decide to go in that direction (file fit moly rings)? Lastly, What do you think of running straight 30 wt oil (Schaeffers)? In the colder months, I was thinking about using a magnetic oil pan heater to get the oil up to a decent temp before starting the car. I was thinking that the stability of a straight weight oil would be ideal if you didn't have to contend with flow problems at low ambient temps. Would the use of a oil pan heater cause condensation to form and contaminate the oil? Thanks for your opinions.
 

Patman

Staff member
Messages
22,012
Location
Guelph, Ontario
I honestly don't think a straight weight oil is needed at all. Schaeffer's 5w30 and 10w30 are both very stable, they don't thin out easily at all, so there is simply no need to go with a straight weight. The 5w30 will offer considerably better flow in the cold than the straight weight.
 

evilpeanut

Thread starter
Messages
13
Location
Delaware
I was considering the 30 wt due to the fact that the motor will see some abuse and the main bearing journals are somewhat large - 3.25". OK...and I wanted to run the 30wt in my lawn tractors too. So what would the best choice be between a Schaeffer's 10W-30, and something like Mobile 1 10W-30?
 

MolaKule

Staff member
Messages
21,957
Location
Iowegia - USA
Peanut, It's not just the journal size that matters, it is also the journal-to-bearing clearances that determine what viscosity is suitable. Modern multivoscosity oils obviate the need for straight weights in 99% of today's applications. I am currently try to get information on various clearances and journal sizes in order to run a viscosity requirement study. If you have that info, it would be greatly appreciated. [ May 15, 2003, 10:47 PM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
 
Messages
7,786
Location
Oklahoma
With the main bearings that size and you said that the engine is going to worked, I'd go with Vavoline 20W-50 Racing Oil. Like the zinc content. But hear me out: 1. large main bearings 2. engine oil heater 3. keeps the oil pressure up, IMO, good for a new engine And...... [Welcome!] [ May 15, 2003, 10:53 PM: Message edited by: Schmoe ]
 
Messages
18,449
Location
East of IGO
Peanut ,prelube the motor,Molekule is right on with his information.You could with a roller cam use syn oil for the fire up, the moly rings seat almost instantly .BUT! with the just rebuilt engine no matter how it is cleaned there is alot of dirt, metal and wear happening, so after fire up and a run in period, an oil and filter change would be a good idea to get the crud out of the engine. A 30wt.oil would be good for the first start up if that is what you want to do. Use a delo 400,or mobil 1300 or rotella t. These oil are always available in 15W40 and would probably work well in your motor as they are the best oils for the money and synthetic oils don't seem a whole lot better unless it is below 15f or in a hot turbo motor . 15w40 would be my advice.
 
Messages
144
Location
98281
Is it still important on a fresh engine to run at about 2000 RPM for the first 20 minutes or so? We always did this with regular cams but I do not have any experience will roller cams and would be interested in the correct procedure.
 
Messages
1,357
Location
California, USA
Roller cams should not need any special treatment because the lifters do not rub on the cam like conventional tappets. If you want to run synthetic, you probably can from the start. Only if you experience high oil consumption, you could go to straight 30 until oil usage stabilizes. Unless you have chrome-plated rings, this is probably a non-issue.
 

evilpeanut

Thread starter
Messages
13
Location
Delaware
MolaKule...my clearances are .003 on both main and rod bearings. A little loose compared to some specs I see, but I trust my builder since he runs in the 7's and his motors don't fly apart. Based on the clearances, I am tempted to run a heavier oil like a 15W-40 or 20W-50. It seems that a lot of people don't like Valvoline on this site. Is the 20W-50 racing oil a different story? I am currently using Pennzoil 10W-30 in all my vehicles and am very satisfied. My 400 Pontiac looked like new when I pulled it apart (except for the crack in the block!). Thanks for all of the info everyone.
 
Messages
34,394
Location
NJ
quote:
I am currently try to get information on various clearances and journal sizes in order to run a viscosity requirement study. If you have that info, it would be greatly appreciated.
Look forward to it. [Smile]
 
Messages
529
Location
Manitoba, Canada
quote:
Originally posted by evilpeanut: In the colder months, I was thinking about using a magnetic oil pan heater to get the oil up to a decent temp before starting the car.
[Welcome!] I have heard of these but have no idea where to get them and I live in an area known for horrid winters. Can you provide me with manufacturer info, specs, dealers in Manitoba, anything like that? Reply, PM, or home email, whatever you wish. TIA Rob
 
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